Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I'm very happy with my QTP headers. They fit great, and I'm thrilled that they're never going to turn into rusty piles of ****.

Has anyone else noticed how much cleaner your cars exhaust sounds with true merge collectors when compared to a car with a similar exhaust and regular 4 into 1 collectors?

I don't have any dyno numbers for my car, but the difference in the VE table when I re-tuned my car off the wideband after putting them in, was very impressive to me.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

SOMbitch, you have been warned to by me personally to stop spreading false information about QTP headers. The headers are made at the QTP facility in New Jersey using American Stainless steel. Sorry if yours weren't as high of quality as others. Mine were the best looking headers I've ever gotten. This is your final warning to stop spreading false info about QTP headers. The next time will result in suspension of your account.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

I had a set of QTP's on my '98 T/A. I thought they fit pretty well. Only complaint that I had was it seemed like the drivers side angled up a bit too high towards the floorboard. It was pretty tight. Other than that, they were great.

69lemansguy

iTrader: (12)

i have a set on mine, yea they are a small pain to get installed, but the fit once they are in there is great, and i love how tight they tuck up against the car. My car is lowered a lot, so using their y-pipe was not an option.

SSmoken

iTrader: (26)

mine were the same way.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

The trick is having the car high enough to aim the collector at the ground to be able to get the drivers side header in.

Plan on doing an oil change, because...once you temporarily take the small heat shield (M6 cars, for the clutch line) off the firewall, if you take the oil drain plug and filter out...the header is in about 30 seconds later.

Passenger side, just pull the starter (so disconnect the battery first) and dipstick tube, and it slides right in like nothing...they both go in from the bottom, and they fit awesome.

I put that 1 heat shield back, put in a new dipstick tube (scratched the paint off my original because it was STUCK in my block) put the starter back with the stock wire routing, and haven't had ANY issues with heat under the hood from the headers...nothing has burned or melted...they've been in there for at least 10K miles now.

The other trick...at your PCM, swap the wires for front and rear signal high and signal low on the O2 sensors (swap bank 1 sensor 1 with bank 1 sensor 2, and then bank 2 sensor 1 with bank 2 sensor 2)...then you just put your main O2 sensors into the collectors, and plug them right into the REAR plugs in your cars harness...tune the car to not need secondary O2's, or plug sims into the FRONT plugs...and you're good to go, no harness extensions needed...takes like 10 or 15 minutes to swap the wires at the PCM and it gets rid of any potential O2 sensor signal problems with extensions or soldering or anything like that.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

"potential O2 sensor signal problems with extensions" -- has anyone actually had that experience? Must be due to bad extension wiring?!

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

They are okay... i had them, not impressed. Spend the extra $ and get the KOOKS.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

More pins and connections under the car to have exposed to the elements when you're driving versus just using plugs that GM already put there.