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Old 09-06-2010, 05:18 PM
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I am posting this in 2 sections in hopes of getting more views. I started my car this weekend and took it for the first drive after the D1SC install. The car fired with no issues and i drove it around for probably 30min. When i came home i pulled in the drive-way and shut it off. A little while longer i went to go move the car and when backing up i killed it ( not used to new clutch). When i turned the key to start it back up i heard a small click and everything electrical went out. I checked and there was only 3 volts at the battery. So i unhooked everything from the battery and the battery has 13volts. So i then unhooked the power wire going to the alternator and to the starter with no luck, still 3 volts. When i unhooked the power at the underhood fuse boxes the voltage went back up to 13. So i then started unplugging fuses and relays at the boxes to figure out whats going on (i am assuming there is a short in something somewhere). When i pulled the 3rd 50 amp fuse down from the power post on the fuse block next to the fender well the voltage jumped back up to 13. Plug the fuse back in and it drops again. The problem is the cover for my fuse blocks are basically unreadable. So first off can someone please let me know what that fuse is for? Second does anyone have any clue what could be causing the draw that has something to do with that circuit? Any help would be great, because i am at a loss currently.

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Old 09-06-2010, 11:50 PM
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take a picture of the fuse box and sent it to me i will tell what it is for. there is a 12volt drain, but if one of the wires is grounding out, you will most likely blow the fuse. insted of burining up the wire, unless it has a fuseable link in the line.
Old 09-07-2010, 03:10 PM
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Well i figured out what the fuse is for. It is for H/L DR - HORN.
Old 09-07-2010, 03:38 PM
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OK well im not sure what it was but i unplugged both connectors going to the Head Lamp Door Control module and that fixed part of the problem. I plugged them back up and the fuse is no longer causing the voltage to drop.

NOW!!!!! if the fusible links are hooked up i still have a drain on voltage. What exactly do the 3 fusible links cover? Where can i start looking, or what can i unhook to chase this problem?
Old 09-07-2010, 07:53 PM
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If you have a really really bad or dead battery, it might read 12 volts when not connected to anything but with the slightest load go to almost nothing. From what you’ve described, this sounds like your situation. I’d suggest you re-connect everything and try a jump start. If the car starts and runs, you should have like 13 volts which would indicate the alternator is trying to charge the battery. If this is so and the battery is still very low after an amount of running/charging time of say a half hour, you have a bad battery.

I would suggest an Optima yellow top.
Old 09-08-2010, 08:46 AM
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I already have an optima in the car. The battery is good. I have already tried another battery and jumping the car. There is no load on the system at all. I have the alternator and starter disconnected from the system, only the driver side fuse/relay panel is connected to the battery. When the fusible links are hooked up, i have 3 volts, unhook the fusible links 12.8 volts. Something on those circuits has to be drawing voltage. It could be a grounding issue as it appears these cars have similar issues to this quite often, but i need to know what those 3 fusible links service so i can start troubleshooting.
Old 09-08-2010, 09:06 PM
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Well i got the car running, i ended up taking off every ground wire that i could find and sanding down the contact, the bolt, and the area the ground went to. SO the voltage issue is fixed, HOWEVER

I now have an ABS and TCS light. Also my TCS switch isnt lighting up. IDEAS?
Old 09-08-2010, 10:56 PM
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From your first post:

Originally Posted by 98legendws6
...I checked and there was only 3 volts at the battery. So i unhooked everything from the battery and the battery has 13volts...
This is where I'm not following you. 3 volts at the battery would indicate it's dead. OR if you had a good battery and under load, it was reading 3 volts, the load would pretty much be a heavy dead short and your cabling would be in flames.



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