kooks headers
you can just reuse the stock ones...
also... make sure you get the car high enough in the air to put the drivers side header stright up and down to get it in... if you dont get it high enough to go straigt up and down with the header you will be cussing all night long at other parts of your car...
and I highly recommend using the bolts that get sent with the kooks headers...just dont over torque them...
pass 1 = 11 ft lbs
pass 2 = 18 ft lbs
also depending on what exhaust you have going with it.. you will want to leave them loose until you get the x-pipe or y-pipe connected to them, after that you can tighten the bolts down
Jon
ARP HEADER STUDS
they eliminate all the shitty parts about installing headers. That pain in the *** last bolt on the drives side, no problem. I've done 5 header installs on LS1 F-body's, and refuse to do them without the studs. they cost $100, but are worth it, EASILY. I think the worst part about installing headers is having to try and hold the header, gasket, and somehow get the damn bolts in without cross-threading the hole. Where as with the studs, install them, slide gasket on, slide header on, and apply washers and nut, tq down, and go have a beer
FYI, I did 4 of the 5 installs by myself
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Ditto on the MLS gaskets too. Those felt gaskets that most header companies include will leak in no time. You'll be doing it again soon if you install those.







