plug gap & missfires
On your first question, I do not know if these ignitions were different (weaker)when your car was manufactured, but on my 2005 LS6 I can increase the plug gap substantially above 0.040" with no misfires - at least while the plugs are fresh.
I don't know if they were necessarily weaker but the car certainly is much older and worn down then your 2005 LS6.
When my converter wouldn't stay locked, the computer would see 30 something misfires at regular driving un-locked and then, when it lock up it went up to like 80 something and un-locked the converter again. So obviously it's been misfiring the whole time but just not enough to tell. Now I'm guessing that gaping the plugs more is causing it to missfire even worse. I realize that it's been stated already that that is an indicator of a larger problem but my point is that I don't know what else would cause such a weak spark other than worn out coil packs. If the timing was off or there was some other tuning issue, wouldn't it be misfiring regardless of the gap?
You may have an MAF problem now since those wire are pretty sensitive - technically you are not supposed to clean them, but most folks do allright cleaning them carefully with alcohol.
One point made earlier was that perhaps the oil in the intake is causing the misfires. This can happen if enough oil is mixed with air entering the cylinder because it results in the wrong air-to-fuel ratio. How much oil is in the intake?
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No. Timing varies w/ RPM & g/cyl, among other things. Unplug the MAF & see if it's better. Still find it odd that the problem began w/ the initial re-tune after mods. Could also be false knock. Again, I say to have a different tuner look @ it.
So, if I unplug the MAF and it gets better what does that mean?
The only other place to take my car to have the tune looked at, this guy works at some times. Plus he looks at my car for free for me when I have issues. He is a very competent tuner and has done hundreds of cars in my area, in the past couple years, and has never once had any issues. However, I will contact the local speed shop and see what they could do to help me out.
Last edited by CayenneRedV6; Dec 22, 2010 at 01:32 AM.
Last edited by CayenneRedV6; Dec 22, 2010 at 02:17 AM.
When you unplug the MAF, it should run better if the MAF were the isuue. Since the problem persists, the MAF is OK. You should drive it around the block to confirm. There will be a check engine light that will turn off once the MAF is plugged back in. Other thing is it could be the MAP sensor, but would likely have a constant CEL if it were. It really does seem like a tuning issue.
Wide open throttle should not exceed 26* max timing. I am thinking that the tuner has WOT timing higher. Also, the complete VE, idle & spark tables need to be looked @, among other areas. Have the tuner check for false knock w/ a scan.
Mechanically, check the injectors & coils. Check to see that there is voltage to both from the PCM while running. Unplug each injector & connect 12 volts to each. You should here a click. If clicking, it's OK, as long as it's not gunked up. Coils can be checked w/ an Ohm meter.
If you don't know how to do this. It's OK, just let the person helping you know that these things need to be looked @, among others. Just tell the tuner that it's not a personal thing... you just want another set of eyes to have a look @ the tune. If you want, the HP tuners file can also be downloaded in the tuning section & a number of people can help by evaluating the tune. I have EFILive. So, unfortunately cannot open the HP tuners file.
Would y'all not come to the same conclusion I did? If the car was misfiring at WOT and gaping the plugs smaller seemed to solve the issue for about a year? Then the misfires at normal driving got bad enough that the converter wouldn't lock up and it was misfiring at WOT again, granted not as bad as before, wouldn't you assume the same thing I did? That the problem I had when I first did everything had gotten worse?
Oh and now I've got another unrelated issue. I'm pouring coolant out from around the water pump. So, I have to get that fixed. There's no coolant in the oil or anything so it's just the pump.....hopefully. The best part is, I had the coolant system flushed over the summer by a shop, I never have other people work on my car, and it seems as if they put mostly water back in it. I've never had such bad luck with a car.

