Which LT header and cats to use full-time?
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From: Marysville, WA
Which LT header and cats to use full-time? What do you guys recommend for a stainless steel or ceramic coated header if I wanted to run it with a catalytic Y-pipe? Take price, performance, build quality, ease of installation, and ground clearance into account! Also, which cats/Y-pipe would you use?
This would be for a mostly stock A4 car at the moment, and I would use it with a Magnaflow catback. Future plans would be either a TR224 cam or small hit of nitrous. It will be tuned at the time headers are installed too.
Thanks!
This would be for a mostly stock A4 car at the moment, and I would use it with a Magnaflow catback. Future plans would be either a TR224 cam or small hit of nitrous. It will be tuned at the time headers are installed too.
Thanks!
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From: Northern Va
Originally Posted by PSU_Engineer
YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!!! DID YOU EVEN GLANCE AT THE SECOND STICKY THAT JRP POSTED??? WHAT DO YOU THINK IT'S THERE FOR? TO ELIMINATE THESE KINDA QUESTIONS!!!YEA, I'M YELLING!
Tony
. He probably just didn't notice the sticky below his. Thread Starter
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From: Marysville, WA
Originally Posted by PSU_Engineer
YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!!! DID YOU EVEN GLANCE AT THE SECOND STICKY THAT JRP POSTED??? WHAT DO YOU THINK IT'S THERE FOR? TO ELIMINATE THESE KINDA QUESTIONS!!!YEA, I'M YELLING!
Tony
I've been reading any and all posts that I could find about exhaust combinations for the LS1 F-bodies for the past year. I however do not have any personal experience with the parts that are available, so I rely on other people who have had personal experience with the parts. Kiss my *** if you have a problem with me asking them for their advice, that's what message boards are all about.
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From: Marysville, WA
Maybe I should clarify my original question: I am looking for recommendations on which company makes the best header/catted-Y combo for the money? I'm not interested in having a custom catted-Y fabbed up, cutouts, etc. I want pieces that can be bolted up in my driveway, and won't cost $1,300+.
- I don't want to pay extra money to buy the FLP set when I wouldn't use the race pipes that are included.
- QTP headers/catted-Y are nice I'm sure, but very expensive.
- Jet-Hot/Hooker LTs are very popular and would be a nice option if I knew of a good catted-Y to use with them that would bolt into place.
Last edited by Chili Pepper; Feb 17, 2004 at 07:46 PM.
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From: Naperville, IL
Chili,
I would recommend looking at Jet-Hot headers and catted Y-pipe. They told me 999.99 to my door for everything! Thats a pretty good price, and they also have the option of using cut-outs or gutted cats like FLP. The finish is outstanding, and minimal slag from welding! Good choice for you.
Hope this helps!
I would recommend looking at Jet-Hot headers and catted Y-pipe. They told me 999.99 to my door for everything! Thats a pretty good price, and they also have the option of using cut-outs or gutted cats like FLP. The finish is outstanding, and minimal slag from welding! Good choice for you.
Hope this helps!
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From: Marysville, WA
Thanks Voodoo! I actually sent Jet Hot an email the other day asking about the price for their catted-Y + headers, but haven't heard back from them yet. Are you familiar with their Y-pipe and how the cats are swapped out for the cutouts or off-road pipes? I've always heard that FLP's are easy to swap out, and I think I remember that they use band clamps but haven't seen them in person.
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Staging Lane
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From: Tulsa
I finally got my Jet Hot LTs and Catted Y buttoned up on Monday...
Got them (along w/ o2 extensions, I'd definately get them and avoid the trouble) for $929 shipped to my door from a GP on here from Scott from scott@forcefedhighperformance.com . The headers were drop shipped from Jet Hot. I also saw that another sponser was running the same deal. So it sounds like Jet Hot just up and gives the go head every now and then. I'd wait for another GP.
My kit came w/ 4 U-clamps and 2 Slip joint Band Clamps. I ended up having to ditch 2 of the U-clamps and get 2 3-inch Butt joint Band Clamps to cover where the cats go in.
The cats kinda look like a Pepsi can and fit before the o2 bungs. You don't swap them out for cut-outs. A cut-out goes on the I-pipe usually before the axle. Jet-Hot also gives you 'test' / offroad straight pipes. These are the same size as the cats but are just a hollow tube. The kit also comes with two little threaded plugs for the rear o2s if you just want to run sims.
Here's a pic of another member's ride, but it's what my set up looks like sans the rear 2 U-joints.
Got them (along w/ o2 extensions, I'd definately get them and avoid the trouble) for $929 shipped to my door from a GP on here from Scott from scott@forcefedhighperformance.com . The headers were drop shipped from Jet Hot. I also saw that another sponser was running the same deal. So it sounds like Jet Hot just up and gives the go head every now and then. I'd wait for another GP.
My kit came w/ 4 U-clamps and 2 Slip joint Band Clamps. I ended up having to ditch 2 of the U-clamps and get 2 3-inch Butt joint Band Clamps to cover where the cats go in.
The cats kinda look like a Pepsi can and fit before the o2 bungs. You don't swap them out for cut-outs. A cut-out goes on the I-pipe usually before the axle. Jet-Hot also gives you 'test' / offroad straight pipes. These are the same size as the cats but are just a hollow tube. The kit also comes with two little threaded plugs for the rear o2s if you just want to run sims.
Here's a pic of another member's ride, but it's what my set up looks like sans the rear 2 U-joints.
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From: Naperville, IL
Nice Pic! Yes, I would say go the the jet hots..I like them, and think they add a unique sound, especially with the magnaflow cat back! I also like the manufacturing of them. Did you install them yourself? How sis you like it if you did. I know SLP's are a bitch!
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Tulsa
I consider myself fairly mechanically competent (IF I have a good install to go by w/ lots of pics 
)... I've done the following by myself: LCAs, Bolt on relocation brackets, PHB, Shock swap, and polished front calipers.
With that said... it took me forever to do my header swap. ~30 HOURS!!!!! If you have big hands... you WILL bust them up. With that said.... the install wasn't THAT bad. My last primary on the passenger side is 1/4 of an inch away from the heater box, so I layered it w/ a bunch of foil tape. Hopefully it won't melt/distort. On the driver side I had to cut half of the block tab. I am also 1/4 of an inch away from the K-member on the driver side.
Up top, the passenger side is a beotch. I had to take the coil pack off and that last bolt was a SOB. Also.. be VERY VERY careful putting the header bolts in. You should be able to finger tighten them almost all the way to the flange. If they are the least bit hard to turn a couple times... move the header around! I ended up cross threading 2 on the passenger side, but was luckily able to re-tread by just muscling down on them and backing out/cleaning the shavings.
Now that I know all that goes into it, what tools to use and when to use extensions. I think I could probably do the whole thing over again in easily half the time. It will really help if you have a friend underneath the car holding and adjusting the headers while you're up top tightening them. I had to use a jack stand.
Oh, and I'll be posting vids soon of the new setup. Sounds wicked in the upper RPMs.
)... I've done the following by myself: LCAs, Bolt on relocation brackets, PHB, Shock swap, and polished front calipers.With that said... it took me forever to do my header swap. ~30 HOURS!!!!! If you have big hands... you WILL bust them up. With that said.... the install wasn't THAT bad. My last primary on the passenger side is 1/4 of an inch away from the heater box, so I layered it w/ a bunch of foil tape. Hopefully it won't melt/distort. On the driver side I had to cut half of the block tab. I am also 1/4 of an inch away from the K-member on the driver side.
Up top, the passenger side is a beotch. I had to take the coil pack off and that last bolt was a SOB. Also.. be VERY VERY careful putting the header bolts in. You should be able to finger tighten them almost all the way to the flange. If they are the least bit hard to turn a couple times... move the header around! I ended up cross threading 2 on the passenger side, but was luckily able to re-tread by just muscling down on them and backing out/cleaning the shavings.
Now that I know all that goes into it, what tools to use and when to use extensions. I think I could probably do the whole thing over again in easily half the time. It will really help if you have a friend underneath the car holding and adjusting the headers while you're up top tightening them. I had to use a jack stand.
Oh, and I'll be posting vids soon of the new setup. Sounds wicked in the upper RPMs.
Last edited by Mike01Hawk; Feb 18, 2004 at 11:03 AM.
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From: Naperville, IL
Mike! Thanks for the info! Yeah, I am pretty inclined myself, but I hear all of these horror stories! lol....Actually I really like to relax and work on cars, but having the right tools helps huge! I little air is always good!
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
I would go with Kooks.Buy once and they will last forever.The Hookers are nice but those tiny Cats don't pass emmision visual tests.A Kook setup will be a little more $$.
Check with TTP-->
Check with TTP-->
