Car wont start after manifold swap
Car wont start after manifold swap So I just finished swaping my LS6 intake manifold with the FAST 102mm manifold/102mm throttle body. Everything went smooth (except the left aft bolt...that was a PITA to torque down due to clearance issues...) After I got everything hooked back up I reconnect the battery, turn the key to ACC to check for fuel leaks and I notice all my gauges are still dead and my odometer/trip aren't displaying, I also hear a click sound from the right bank (around the injectors is about as close as I can pinpoint, cause I have to run around the car soon as I turn key). So I try to turn the car over, and it turns, but wont start (don't hear fuel pump), but everything else is fine (radio, external/internal lights), the only wierd thing is that both turn signal indicators are steady on and the High Beam indicator is also on...also, once I turn the car off, the gauges reset themselves...
I'm at a loss at the moment, I was wondering if anyone has any insight as to what might of gone wrong during the install, anything in the vicinity that I can look into that might have gotten disconnected/damaged, or maybe has come across this problem before? I'd really like to try and avoid it, but I guess I'm gonna have to pull the manifold back out tomorrow to see if something behind it got disconnected or what...
I'm at a loss at the moment, I was wondering if anyone has any insight as to what might of gone wrong during the install, anything in the vicinity that I can look into that might have gotten disconnected/damaged, or maybe has come across this problem before? I'd really like to try and avoid it, but I guess I'm gonna have to pull the manifold back out tomorrow to see if something behind it got disconnected or what...
Torque wrench and manual cost $$ but not as much as a new intake.
Dead wrong way to do it. The torque pattern starts in the middle and circles outward, and the bolts are tightened in two precise steps. These are to prevent the intake from warping, which allows air leakage under vacuum.
Torque wrench and manual cost $$ but not as much as a new intake.
Torque wrench and manual cost $$ but not as much as a new intake.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
There's a picture of the intake showing the bolt sequence, the torque value for 1st pass is 44 in/lb and 2nd pass is 89 in/lb. Ignore the part about hand tight, you're dealing with plastic and aluminum...beg/borrow/buy a torque wrench that can do 44 and 89 in/lbs.
I'd get new intake gaskets, parts stores usually have or can quickly get FelPro sets.
Good luck!
There's a picture of the intake showing the bolt sequence, the torque value for 1st pass is 44 in/lb and 2nd pass is 89 in/lb. Ignore the part about hand tight, you're dealing with plastic and aluminum...beg/borrow/buy a torque wrench that can do 44 and 89 in/lbs.
I'd get new intake gaskets, parts stores usually have or can quickly get FelPro sets.
Good luck!
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As for the OP, the only thing I can think of that wouldn't be obvious as far as electrical that could be the issue, is the ground wires on the back of the driver side head since I'm guessing you checked the fuses....You DID check the fuses, right?
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Verdad Gallardo Uh, yeaaaa, lack of mechanical skills are definitely your problem...ANYBODY who knows even close to what there doing will know you ALWAYS torque something down from the inside out. Also anybody who knows anything about motors in general should/would know revving like that is OBVIOUSLY a vacuum leak.
Some people embrace that whole School of Hard Knocks thing rather than reading manuals, but it's an expensive way to learn.
thanks for the help but i knew it was a leak ...thats why i didnt sit there and let the engine rev like crazy.. I got the bbk very cheap and did some custom port work. I work on jet ski engines all the time and its very easy to find leaks on those. I knew what the problem was but tomm im going to undo the manifold and follow the torque spec and see what happens.
thanks for the help but i knew it was a leak ...thats why i didnt sit there and let the engine rev like crazy.. I got the bbk very cheap and did some custom port work. I work on jet ski engines all the time and its very easy to find leaks on those. I knew what the problem was but tomm im going to undo the manifold and follow the torque spec and see what happens.
Now lets see if we can do what you ask and help you fix your car. An air leak is NOT going to keep your car from starting after an intake change. You said no sound coming from the FP so lets start there. Check your FP fuse and give a good look at all of your elec. connections around the intake. Make sure the coil packs are fully plugged in. Just take your time.
Last edited by Anthony Williams; May 28, 2011 at 11:33 PM.
Nothing wrong with the BBK intake, but just like A** holes everyone has an opinion. I'm old so I come from a time when most manifolds were aluminum and cheap.
Attachment 298241
Now lets see if we can do what you ask and help you fix your car. An air leak is NOT going to keep your car from starting after an intake change. You said no sound coming from the FP so lets start there. Check your FP fuse and give a good look at all of your elec. connections around the intake. Make sure the coil packs are fully plugged in. Just take your time.
Attachment 298241
Now lets see if we can do what you ask and help you fix your car. An air leak is NOT going to keep your car from starting after an intake change. You said no sound coming from the FP so lets start there. Check your FP fuse and give a good look at all of your elec. connections around the intake. Make sure the coil packs are fully plugged in. Just take your time.
Second, there IS something wrong with it. It doesn't flow well, first off, and second, its aluminum, so it headsoaks much worse than the plastic, which results in lost power once it gets hot and heats the air charge. Pretty common sense stuff right there.
Sorry to over take this thread . The guy who proved the bbk makes more HP then the ls6 lives close to me and had a nice write up. That was a reason I bought it. The heat soak is a lie.
Making more power on a single dyno run with the hood up and a fan blowing across the engine is one thing.
Making more power in a 30+ minute road course session w/ the hood closed is another matter entirely.
