Bone stock Z28, what should I do first?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5
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Bone stock Z28, what should I do first? Hey guys, love the forum and the advice. You guys are a wealth of knowledge, I've been using the forum to troubleshoot little issues with my car and it's an invaluable resource.
Anyways, I've got a bone stock 2000 Z28 and I want to start doing a few small mods. I was looking at keeping the price tag under $1000 and hopefully being able to do the work myself, which kind of limits me to bolt ons.
I want to add a few hp without killing the reliability or gas mileage. I know that when adding any hp both reliability and mpg goes down a little but I was hoping I had some options that would keep that within reason.
I was thinking maybe a ls6 intake and flowmaster catback exhaust. Is there anything I should know about adding either of these? Anything else that needs to be upgraded when I do either one? I'm also a machinist and I was wondering if there was any way I could port my own throttle body without destroying it or if that's a good idea at all.
Thanks in advance for the advice, like I said, I've been using the forum for a while without posting and I really appreciate all the shared knowledge. So, thank you guys
Anyways, I've got a bone stock 2000 Z28 and I want to start doing a few small mods. I was looking at keeping the price tag under $1000 and hopefully being able to do the work myself, which kind of limits me to bolt ons.
I want to add a few hp without killing the reliability or gas mileage. I know that when adding any hp both reliability and mpg goes down a little but I was hoping I had some options that would keep that within reason.
I was thinking maybe a ls6 intake and flowmaster catback exhaust. Is there anything I should know about adding either of these? Anything else that needs to be upgraded when I do either one? I'm also a machinist and I was wondering if there was any way I could port my own throttle body without destroying it or if that's a good idea at all.
Thanks in advance for the advice, like I said, I've been using the forum for a while without posting and I really appreciate all the shared knowledge. So, thank you guys
Lid, LS6 intake and catback of whatever brand you can get for a good price.
Is it an auto or stick?
If auto what gears are in it? Also if auto (and it doesn't have 2.73 gears) put a nice, quality 34-3600 stall in it. Top it off with a mail order tune and you'll have a very fun car to drive.
Pick up things used (except for the converter) and you can save some cash.
Is it an auto or stick?
If auto what gears are in it? Also if auto (and it doesn't have 2.73 gears) put a nice, quality 34-3600 stall in it. Top it off with a mail order tune and you'll have a very fun car to drive.
Pick up things used (except for the converter) and you can save some cash.
The difference in lids is so minimal that it isn't worth putting much effort into. Find one that fits and looks good and roll with it. Get some drag radials and spend as much time at the drag strip as you can. Get all the seat time you can with the car stock on the drag radials. My 99 A4 2.73 gear Trans Am went from 13.90s to 13.30s with just an air lid, cutting the air box, trimming the EGR tube and lots and lots of seat time. Getting to know your car and what it likes will make all the difference in the world.
The difference in lids is so minimal that it isn't worth putting much effort into. Find one that fits and looks good and roll with it. Get some drag radials and spend as much time at the drag strip as you can. Get all the seat time you can with the car stock on the drag radials. My 99 A4 2.73 gear Trans Am went from 13.90s to 13.30s with just an air lid, cutting the air box, trimming the EGR tube and lots and lots of seat time. Getting to know your car and what it likes will make all the difference in the world.
This.
$1000 wont give u much to work with, but i think these are worth consideration
yup LID is a definite must, about $99
free weight reduction, Free
free ram air mod, Free
egr mod, Free
DR's, i use nitto nt555r's, about $150 each
strut tower brace, about $100
manual cutout, about $30
LT Headers, $200-600
shorty ORY about $150
Thats what i can come up with a $1000 budget
I'd personally invest ina better catback imo, dont forget to save up for a tune too after u bought everything.
yup LID is a definite must, about $99
free weight reduction, Free
free ram air mod, Free
egr mod, Free
DR's, i use nitto nt555r's, about $150 each
strut tower brace, about $100
manual cutout, about $30
LT Headers, $200-600
shorty ORY about $150
Thats what i can come up with a $1000 budget
I'd personally invest ina better catback imo, dont forget to save up for a tune too after u bought everything.
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There are two conflicting schools of thought here -- you can add more power to the car or you could work to get the power you currently have to the ground.
If you'd prefer to add more power, here's a list of budget options: start with a lid, ported throttle body, Pacesetter LT headers + ORY, good used catback and a mail order tune.
The plan that will likely result in better ET's at the track focuses on putting the current power to the ground: lid, ported stock TB, weld-in subframe connectors (you'll thank yourself for this after it's done -- your quarter panels will appreciate it too) and drag radials.
If you'd prefer to add more power, here's a list of budget options: start with a lid, ported throttle body, Pacesetter LT headers + ORY, good used catback and a mail order tune.
The plan that will likely result in better ET's at the track focuses on putting the current power to the ground: lid, ported stock TB, weld-in subframe connectors (you'll thank yourself for this after it's done -- your quarter panels will appreciate it too) and drag radials.
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TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: GARDEN GROVE, CA
I have learned a lot about what mods are a waste and what work.
1st a lid, any brand is good. $90-100
2nd a short throw shifter handle, since you have a m6. You won't believe the difference.
3rd some good shocks. The stock one's suck. Bilsteins are good for stock ride height. Revalved or Koni's for lowering springs.
No 4- A catback exhaust or just have the stock system cut off and have a different muffler welded in.
No 5- Rear lower controls arms. Helps with traction and wheelhop.
No 6- Home port throttle body. Don't worry about screwing it up. Just go slow and take your time.
No 7- ls6 intake or BBK intake. There about the same price. The bbk you can port but there's the small issue with heat soak
No 8-Long tube headers are a great mod. Expensive for the good one's though. Living in Ca for me means stock headers. Smog *****.
1st a lid, any brand is good. $90-100
2nd a short throw shifter handle, since you have a m6. You won't believe the difference.
3rd some good shocks. The stock one's suck. Bilsteins are good for stock ride height. Revalved or Koni's for lowering springs.
No 4- A catback exhaust or just have the stock system cut off and have a different muffler welded in.
No 5- Rear lower controls arms. Helps with traction and wheelhop.
No 6- Home port throttle body. Don't worry about screwing it up. Just go slow and take your time.
No 7- ls6 intake or BBK intake. There about the same price. The bbk you can port but there's the small issue with heat soak
No 8-Long tube headers are a great mod. Expensive for the good one's though. Living in Ca for me means stock headers. Smog *****.
Lid 50-80$ used
Shifter 150$? Not sure what they run
Pacesetter lts with ory and a cutout 500$ this will come with plugs and extensions
Ls6 intake 280-340
That should be right at your budget.. if you have enough left over get frost to do a mail order tune, if not that would be my next mod.
Shifter 150$? Not sure what they run
Pacesetter lts with ory and a cutout 500$ this will come with plugs and extensions
Ls6 intake 280-340
That should be right at your budget.. if you have enough left over get frost to do a mail order tune, if not that would be my next mod.
Opening up the inside of the airbox to allow more air flow. You'll need a dremel tool to do this. Do not put a flowmaster catback on it. If you like a very mellow sound, get a magnaflow. If you want a aggressive sound, get a GMMG, and if you want it to be loud, then the loudmouth is it. Most all lids flow the same, I have a SLP just because I like the way it looked and since it was smooth on both the inside and outside. Some other lids have a rougher finish on the inside, especially around the joints. You could also do the bumpstop mod to the throttle body. Basically they don't open a full 90 degrees from the factory. You can grind material off the bump stop in small increments until you reach 90 degrees. You have to use a voltmeter to and see what the voltage is at WOT. Once you reach a certain voltage, its time to stop. You'll have to do a search for a detailed write up.
There you go my friend. Now you have a quick and gainful project for the weekend 
I knocked .1-.15 off the ET and gained 1-1.5mph consistently after this modification.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...am_air_mod.htm
I knocked .1-.15 off the ET and gained 1-1.5mph consistently after this modification.http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...am_air_mod.htm
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, Kansas
My own question on this, I've heard manual/electric cut out, dealing with exhaust. Is this referring to cutting out the cat, or something else? Already have stock lid, does an aftermarket flow better since "all lids are about the same"?
Not to thread jack, but getting ready to start modding my own stock 99 WS6
Not to thread jack, but getting ready to start modding my own stock 99 WS6
On The Tree
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Northern Indiana
My own question on this, I've heard manual/electric cut out, dealing with exhaust. Is this referring to cutting out the cat, or something else? Already have stock lid, does an aftermarket flow better since "all lids are about the same"?
Not to thread jack, but getting ready to start modding my own stock 99 WS6
Not to thread jack, but getting ready to start modding my own stock 99 WS6
i've seen a handful of people run the factory catback,(to keep things quiet), then they just uncap the cutout at the track( wahla, no more exhaust restriction...)
tracking?
$1000 wont give u much to work with, but i think these are worth consideration
yup LID is a definite must, about $99
free weight reduction, Free
free ram air mod, Free
egr mod, Free
DR's, i use nitto nt555r's, about $150 each
strut tower brace, about $100
manual cutout, about $30
LT Headers, $200-600
shorty ORY about $150
Thats what i can come up with a $1000 budget
I'd personally invest ina better catback imo, dont forget to save up for a tune too after u bought everything.
yup LID is a definite must, about $99
free weight reduction, Free
free ram air mod, Free
egr mod, Free
DR's, i use nitto nt555r's, about $150 each
strut tower brace, about $100
manual cutout, about $30
LT Headers, $200-600
shorty ORY about $150
Thats what i can come up with a $1000 budget
I'd personally invest ina better catback imo, dont forget to save up for a tune too after u bought everything.
Seems like if there's a strict budget, the STB shouldn't be on this list. That's a 100 bucks that can go towards the tune after the LT's.
And FYI - I think you can get a STB from Founder's Performance for like 60.