Header install, possible problems?
#1
Header install, possible problems?
Okay so I finally got the time to put my new stainless headers in my car. It took me about 6-7 hrs worth of work. Passenger side was a PITA, but anyways I just wanted some feedback on others who have put headers in.
When you first start the car open headers, does the car seem to vibrate? or rattle some? My thinking is that the collector is vibrating since it doesnt have the rest of the exhaust hooked up, but i'm not real sure. Just wondering if this is normal or if something is rubbing/touching?
Thanks fellas!
When you first start the car open headers, does the car seem to vibrate? or rattle some? My thinking is that the collector is vibrating since it doesnt have the rest of the exhaust hooked up, but i'm not real sure. Just wondering if this is normal or if something is rubbing/touching?
Thanks fellas!
#4
Bro, my car had 90xxx miles on it and mine where SQUASHED! Replace your MM with Poly's and you will eleminate your problem. Also will help you avoid your collectrs smacking the floor pan when you get on it and setting off your knock sensor.
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#9
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Motor mounts aren't bad. As long as you got good Drill bits and a drill press. other wise they can be kinda a pain. plus the process of getting them out. Pulling the alternator as well as moving the a/c pump forward and removing its mounting bracket. All together my poly mm's and long tube, ory instulation took about 35-40 hours.
#10
TECH Addict
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Motor mounts aren't bad. As long as you got good Drill bits and a drill press. other wise they can be kinda a pain. plus the process of getting them out. Pulling the alternator as well as moving the a/c pump forward and removing its mounting bracket. All together my poly mm's and long tube, ory instulation took about 35-40 hours.
I've always installed headers with the engine out of the car untill a few weeks ago when I swapped out my TSP 1 7/8's for Kooks 1 7/8's the whole process took 4 hours TOPS. The key to installing long tubes with the engine in the car is having a lift, or atleast LARGE jackstands to get the car atleast 2' - 2 1/2' off the ground.
#11
Ya see I didn't have a lift..the bottom of my tires were maybe a foot off the ground, or foot and half. It was tough. I wish I had a lift.
I honestly don't think it's the MM, it doesn't vibrate when it's idling.
I honestly don't think it's the MM, it doesn't vibrate when it's idling.
#13
Yep Prouud of my $180 headers lol... ya i'm sure i grinded some of the K member off on both sides, no problem. It's got a good 1inch to 1.5 inches from the steering arm.
#14
Motor mounts aren't bad. As long as you got good Drill bits and a drill press. other wise they can be kinda a pain. plus the process of getting them out. Pulling the alternator as well as moving the a/c pump forward and removing its mounting bracket. All together my poly mm's and long tube, ory instulation took about 35-40 hours.
#16
TECH Enthusiast
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Well I didn't have enough hight out of my jackstands even as high I could get them. Then I just kept having problems and more problems. Plus no help at all. I did them by myself. So it took a little longer crawling out from under the car then out then back under and so on.
#17
O, yeah that makes way more sense. I had help and a lift, air tools and everything else. Props to you, I don't think I would have been able to do it by myself, let alone on jack stands dor that matter...
#19
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Join Date: May 2011
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Not meaning to thread jack, just wanted to ask a question and don't feel there's need to start a new thread for it. Will be going to LT's and a true dual next week, wanting to change the motor mounts while I'm at it. Everyone says poly mounts, but I can't find them anywhere. All I can find are prothane and solid mounts. Help? Would be interested in a kit for trans and motor mounts if a good one is recommended.
Thanks
Thanks