Need HELP NOW....my SS is stranded!
EXACT same thing happened to me a year ago or so. You're BCM (Body Control Module) is probably fried. Apparently it just happens for no reason. Your car will not start until the dealer replaces the BCM...has to do with the VATS system.
The dealer replaced my lock cylinder and the BCM for about $500. I was pissed.
You can't push start it and the starter is fine....the BCM is preventing the car from starting...sorry, but you're out $500 unless you are under warranty.
The dealer replaced my lock cylinder and the BCM for about $500. I was pissed.
You can't push start it and the starter is fine....the BCM is preventing the car from starting...sorry, but you're out $500 unless you are under warranty.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 393
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From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by 14u2nv
I tried my spare set of keys which have NEVER been used, not even once....nothing! I was wrong with my origianl decription of whats happening. When I turn the key to position 1 all the lights come on like normal, then when I turn the key to position 2 they all turn off except "check gauges", "service engine" and the "security" light flashes(not stays on, but it will continually flash). Also, when I turn the key and all the lights turn off, except the ones mentioned....I hear a loud click type noise coming from the cluster area or just in front of the dash...the noise is loud enough to be easily heard, sounds like a non-functioning relay or something. I will go back and check the fuses, but which ones should I check in particular?
I had exactly the same issue last year. It wouldn't start - I'd try to turn the key a few times - and magically it would start. In a couple days the problem got worse, so I had to push-start it couple times (M6). Eventually stopped by the dealer. They scanned it and told me the sensor in the key master cylinder was bad. I need the car everyday and so I just had them fix it (replace the cylinder and get the new keys. they told me the sensor alone couldn't be replaced and I had no reason to doubt that, though still don't know) . $460 for everything or something like that
If you have time, you may try to fix it on your own - you have to disassemble the steering coulumn, and the cylinder is somewhere under the airbag... ..perhaps the stupid sensor has a loose wire or something like that, and you would save the labor money.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,640
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From: Austin, Tx.
Originally Posted by Iv_z28
If you have time, you may try to fix it on your own - you have to disassemble the steering coulumn, and the cylinder is somewhere under the airbag... ..perhaps the stupid sensor has a loose wire or something like that, and you would save the labor
This is the cheap and easy way. However, someone can steal your car with a regualr key.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Mentor, Ohio
Where is this BODY CONTROL MODULE located and can I replace it myself? Are these coded to the car, like only done through the dealer? If I have a friend use his laptop and scan the PCM, will I find out whats wrong that way?
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Put a scanner on it & see what code you get , Have you even pulled the lower bolster panel down yet to check the wires at the coulmn with an ohm meter w/key in cylinder?
Do you have a digital ohm meter?
BCM failure, no don't attempt to repair, you need to reprogram the vats to the specfic set up.
However they are rare, & are most likely sold as a inexperenced tech throwing parts at a problem IMO.
Do you have a digital ohm meter?
BCM failure, no don't attempt to repair, you need to reprogram the vats to the specfic set up.
However they are rare, & are most likely sold as a inexperenced tech throwing parts at a problem IMO.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
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From: Mentor, Ohio
I pulled the lower bolster and the lower panel beneath that to make sure the clutch was ok. I will swap my clutch switch with my WS6 tomorrow to make sure the switch hasn't failed. My next step is to recheck all the fuses and the relays. I plan to swap the relays with my Ws6, just to make sure they are fine. Then I will have my friend scan it.
Same thing happened to my friend in the staging lanes at the track last year.It ended up being 1 of the "Big" blade fuses in the fuse box.I think it was like a 50 amp fuse.Hope this helps. 
did you check your terminal connections? sometimes the connection is good enough to power accessories, but lacks the current to turn the starter resulting in the "clicking noise" maybe you got lucky and it's something simple like this that we all over look. chris
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Mentor, Ohio
Pulled my 2000 Ws6 up next to the SS this afternoon after work. I checked all the fuses on the side of the dash and in the engine compartment, none were blown. I then swapped all the relays in both boxes in the engine compartment one by one. I would pull one out of my SS, then pull the same one from my WS6 and install it in the SS, then I would try to strat the SS. i swapped all the relays and nothing. I even swapped the clutch switch and that didn't work. I will have my bud scan it sometime this week.
I know that you checked the fuse but check them again. I had my Nitrous system wired up the the fuse pannel on the side of the dash to the Ign connector. It was drawing too much amprage and blowing the fuse for the Gauges and **** and my car would do the exact thing yours is. Replaced the fuse...AFTER I TOWED IT. Fired right up.
man please tell me what you find out! Here is my situation,
I am...just plain lost. I have been doing searches on every damn fbody site on the net! My car is a 98ta, I just installed pacesetter headers,ory, and a 3500 tci stall. Also removed air,and egr, no rear sims because texasspeed is gonna flash the pcm. I havent touched the car in 2 days, went outside and it started up on the 1st try as usual. Well 2 cranks later did it again. I did a fuel pressure check on the rail and it was fine. Removed or swapped relays,fuses. Checked the grounds on the block. Oh my brand new ngks are straight black and smell like gas. My car will attempt to crank, fuel pump comes on pressure is good, turn key car cranks away, no its not the starter. Floor the car and it sputters and starts vvvvvrrrrrrrrooooooom. Idles fine,drives fine wot fine. Wtf could cause this at start up? The car is absolutely flooded after 3 starts, what give what did you guys come up with?
I have checked over everything what could I have missed? This is pissing me off like no other, I dont want to just start throwing money and parts at the car. I'm gonna swap the plugs tomorrow, and see what else I can find wrong. And no I do not have access to a programmer or edit. But the codes I am throwing are egr,air, and coolant temp sensor, I replaced the cts after the headers because the pin broke. I have no rear o2s or sims, and the car has not thrown a cat or o2 code, wtf
I am...just plain lost. I have been doing searches on every damn fbody site on the net! My car is a 98ta, I just installed pacesetter headers,ory, and a 3500 tci stall. Also removed air,and egr, no rear sims because texasspeed is gonna flash the pcm. I havent touched the car in 2 days, went outside and it started up on the 1st try as usual. Well 2 cranks later did it again. I did a fuel pressure check on the rail and it was fine. Removed or swapped relays,fuses. Checked the grounds on the block. Oh my brand new ngks are straight black and smell like gas. My car will attempt to crank, fuel pump comes on pressure is good, turn key car cranks away, no its not the starter. Floor the car and it sputters and starts vvvvvrrrrrrrrooooooom. Idles fine,drives fine wot fine. Wtf could cause this at start up? The car is absolutely flooded after 3 starts, what give what did you guys come up with?
I have checked over everything what could I have missed? This is pissing me off like no other, I dont want to just start throwing money and parts at the car. I'm gonna swap the plugs tomorrow, and see what else I can find wrong. And no I do not have access to a programmer or edit. But the codes I am throwing are egr,air, and coolant temp sensor, I replaced the cts after the headers because the pin broke. I have no rear o2s or sims, and the car has not thrown a cat or o2 code, wtf
