Blinking SES light? Car running rough...help!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
Blinking SES light? Car running rough...help! did the header install saturday, and installed some TR6's gapped at .035 (for the impending blower install).
The car is running open headers, and i need to take it to a shop, but the SES light is blinking?
But aside from that it's running rough as hell, vibrating the crap out of the car!
I have to drive the car about 35 minutes tomorrow to the exhaust shop...how worried should i be? Could it be that the car is in serious need of a tune after the colder plugs???
Thanks,
Mike
The car is running open headers, and i need to take it to a shop, but the SES light is blinking?
But aside from that it's running rough as hell, vibrating the crap out of the car!
I have to drive the car about 35 minutes tomorrow to the exhaust shop...how worried should i be? Could it be that the car is in serious need of a tune after the colder plugs???
Thanks,
Mike
Originally Posted by BlackBootyZ71
did the header install saturday, and installed some TR6's gapped at .035 (for the impending blower install).
The car is running open headers, and i need to take it to a shop, but the SES light is blinking?
But aside from that it's running rough as hell, vibrating the crap out of the car!
I have to drive the car about 35 minutes tomorrow to the exhaust shop...how worried should i be? Could it be that the car is in serious need of a tune after the colder plugs???
Thanks,
Mike
The car is running open headers, and i need to take it to a shop, but the SES light is blinking?
But aside from that it's running rough as hell, vibrating the crap out of the car!
I have to drive the car about 35 minutes tomorrow to the exhaust shop...how worried should i be? Could it be that the car is in serious need of a tune after the colder plugs???
Thanks,
Mike
Did you check all of the gaps on the plugs before installing them?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
ok, i'm getting ready to go check all of the plug wires...I don't have ATAP with me, so i can't scan for codes....
I (like a moron) didn't pay attention to which coil pack came from where, or which wire came from where...thinking that they were all universal...could that be the problem?
Are the individual coil packs marked? do they need to be in a certain order?
Thanks again, i really appreciate it...i'm running out of time!
I (like a moron) didn't pay attention to which coil pack came from where, or which wire came from where...thinking that they were all universal...could that be the problem?
Are the individual coil packs marked? do they need to be in a certain order?
Thanks again, i really appreciate it...i'm running out of time!
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
well, i (again like a moron) didn't plug in the main harness for the coils...on the passenger side....plugged it in and no more blinking light (it is still on, but the AIR tubes aren't connected) The car is running a TON better now!
Evil, I'm just heading from Burtonsville up to FBC, Tyson is going to try and piece together this y-pipe that I couldn't get together. (i swear, i think they sent me the wrong piece).
Thanks again for all of your advice, I really appreciate your willingness to help out!
As for the coil packs, i'll have to figure that out..the car seems to be running fine now, but i'll scan it and see what codes i'm getting.
Thanks again.
Mike
Evil, I'm just heading from Burtonsville up to FBC, Tyson is going to try and piece together this y-pipe that I couldn't get together. (i swear, i think they sent me the wrong piece).
Thanks again for all of your advice, I really appreciate your willingness to help out!
As for the coil packs, i'll have to figure that out..the car seems to be running fine now, but i'll scan it and see what codes i'm getting.
Thanks again.
Mike
Originally Posted by BlackBootyZ71
well, i (again like a moron) didn't plug in the main harness for the coils...on the passenger side....plugged it in and no more blinking light (it is still on, but the AIR tubes aren't connected) The car is running a TON better now!
As for the coil packs, i'll have to figure that out..the car seems to be running fine now, but i'll scan it and see what codes i'm getting.
Thanks again.
Mike
As for the coil packs, i'll have to figure that out..the car seems to be running fine now, but i'll scan it and see what codes i'm getting.
Thanks again.
Mike
It also doesn't matter which coil pack is where. They're all the same.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
I had a feeling thats what it was by how rough you said it was running. The SES light is still on most likely because your rear 02's aren't hooked up. If you don't plan on incorporating the rear 02's in your set-up, 02 simms will take care of that.
It also doesn't matter which coil pack is where. They're all the same.
It also doesn't matter which coil pack is where. They're all the same.
I'm thinking it's the AIR tubes not being connected...does that make sense?
Originally Posted by BlackBootyZ71
I have 02 simms on the car now, but will soon be getting all of the codes deleted
I'm thinking it's the AIR tubes not being connected...does that make sense?
I'm thinking it's the AIR tubes not being connected...does that make sense?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
I threw an SES light even though I had the simms. I had to clear the code twice before it went away. Just curious, why haven't you connected the air tubes?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,655
Likes: 0
From: Northern Va
after installin the simms, if the light was on it will take a 50 miles for teh compute rto test the system to see if its a closed system. it seemed like it took forever for my ses light to go off after removing the cats. but it goes off, if you're air tubes aren' thooked up it will throw a code i've found. did you get flowtech headers? i've heard of them having issues with the air tubes pointing in the wrong direction, the air tube can be moved around a little with some force just be careful not to bust it off.
otherwise just put block off plates and eliminate the entire system, save some weight just make sure when you go to get your emssions testing in md you go to a place u know isn't gonna look under the hood. if you aren't sure about it, i gotta buddy that works in frederick md, he'll do your emissions and inspection if they are stingey near you.
otherwise just put block off plates and eliminate the entire system, save some weight just make sure when you go to get your emssions testing in md you go to a place u know isn't gonna look under the hood. if you aren't sure about it, i gotta buddy that works in frederick md, he'll do your emissions and inspection if they are stingey near you.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
Originally Posted by slik98z
after installin the simms, if the light was on it will take a 50 miles for teh compute rto test the system to see if its a closed system. it seemed like it took forever for my ses light to go off after removing the cats. but it goes off, if you're air tubes aren' thooked up it will throw a code i've found. did you get flowtech headers? i've heard of them having issues with the air tubes pointing in the wrong direction, the air tube can be moved around a little with some force just be careful not to bust it off.
otherwise just put block off plates and eliminate the entire system, save some weight just make sure when you go to get your emssions testing in md you go to a place u know isn't gonna look under the hood. if you aren't sure about it, i gotta buddy that works in frederick md, he'll do your emissions and inspection if they are stingey near you.
otherwise just put block off plates and eliminate the entire system, save some weight just make sure when you go to get your emssions testing in md you go to a place u know isn't gonna look under the hood. if you aren't sure about it, i gotta buddy that works in frederick md, he'll do your emissions and inspection if they are stingey near you.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Mentor, Ohio
Could it be a bent pushrod or several bent ones? When I mis-shifted at the track with my SS when I first bought it back in MAY 1999 the SES light came on and continued to flash. The engine ran extremely rough and ticked very loudly. I don't remember the exact code the PCM was throwing but it did have a mis-fire code I do remember that. I pulled the pushrods and I had three bent. One of the pushrods was bent like a "Z" and the other two were slightly bent. The one that was really bent had elongated the hole in the cylinder head where the pushrod goes through. Get yourself a piece of glass and remove all the pushrods, keeping them in order so you can replace them in their exact place. Roll the pushrod back and forth on the glass. It will be easy to tell if it's bent or not. If so...the OEM replacements are under $20.00 each but you may want to upgrade them.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
From: MD
Originally Posted by 14u2nv
Could it be a bent pushrod or several bent ones? When I mis-shifted at the track with my SS when I first bought it back in MAY 1999 the SES light came on and continued to flash. The engine ran extremely rough and ticked very loudly. I don't remember the exact code the PCM was throwing but it did have a mis-fire code I do remember that. I pulled the pushrods and I had three bent. One of the pushrods was bent like a "Z" and the other two were slightly bent. The one that was really bent had elongated the hole in the cylinder head where the pushrod goes through. Get yourself a piece of glass and remove all the pushrods, keeping them in order so you can replace them in their exact place. Roll the pushrod back and forth on the glass. It will be easy to tell if it's bent or not. If so...the OEM replacements are under $20.00 each but you may want to upgrade them.
