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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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Default Full throttle difficulty

Hey ya'll I've been experiencing a hesitation when trying to shift gears on hard acceleration and can't figure out what it could be. Do ya'll have any suggestions? I've replaced the clutch fluid (( Which was pitch black )) with new DOT 4 fluid which is still clear after about 100 miles.

Pretty much what's happening is when I give it wide open throttle and go to shift, it pretty much feels like it's blocked out. If I shift prior to 4,000 it's fine, but anything above that it won't go into gear. Any help would be great! The car is a 2002 Camaro Z28 M6
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:18 PM
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Sounds like you might have a clutch, hydraulic problem rather than an engine problem. Are you on a stock MC?
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:42 PM
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MC as in Master cylinder? Yes sir! The only thing that has been replaced on it was the slave cylinder by the previous owner which was about 4,000 miles ago. Do you believe there may be air trapped in it and would just need to be bled? Or is the MC not working correctly?

Do ya'll think it may be that the clutch is out of adjustment? I'm also experiencing a very slight "grinding" noise from coasting at about 30-40 in neutral then shifting into third. I rev match when I put it in gear and it's a smooth transaction but you can hear that slight grind in the background... can only tell when the windows are up and the radio is off. I'm trying to baby this car as much as I can and I don't want to tear anything up! Any help is greatly appreciated!

Last edited by SHKNBKE; Dec 21, 2011 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 06:04 AM
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sounds like your mc maybe going bd and its not letting the clutch disengage at high speed. try getting your car out in the street and put the shifter in first with the clutch down rev the motor to about 5000 and see if the car moves at all if so then your master isnt disengaging the clutch all the way and you need to go through the hydraulics again
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 07:55 AM
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While it may very well be a clutch master cylinder issue you should completely flush and thoroughly bleed the system before you start changing parts.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Alright thank you! Does anyone have a picture of where the bleeder screw is by chance? I can't seem to find it, I must be blind or something... I'm gonna attempt to bleed it and see if that fixes it, if not then I'll go ahead and replace the MC. Thanks again guys!
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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have you done the drill mod?
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SHKNBKE
Alright thank you! Does anyone have a picture of where the bleeder screw is by chance? I can't seem to find it, I must be blind or something... I'm gonna attempt to bleed it and see if that fixes it, if not then I'll go ahead and replace the MC. Thanks again guys!
lol yikes...it sucks just an FYI. I copied this from the manual transmission section FAQ Sticky

2. Where the heck is the bleeder screw for this thing?

One of the more difficult things about a T56 is accessing the bleeder screw. You cannot see it without a mirror, so you must rely on feel. If you are beneath the car and you are looking at the transmission where the master cylinder line connects to the slave cylinder, reach straight upward. At the very top of the transmission you will feel a hex-shaped rod about two inches in length. That is the bleeder screw, which comes directly from the slave cylinder.

To bleed the system, you will need a 7/16th” socket, thin-walled, in ¼ drive. It would behoove you to use a few swivels and extensions. I also highly recommend taping the socket to the extension/swivel/etc. If for some reason you drop the socket, it will end up at the bottom of the bellhousing and you will have a hell of a time fishing it out.

If you plan to bleed traditionally, you will need two people. One under the car opening and tightening the bleeder screw, and another in the car operating the pedal.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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Alright guys so I did a little digging in the receipt book the previous owner gave me and noticed that the Master Cylinder was actually replaced instead of the slave. So would the slave cylinder possibly be causing this? Do ya'll think there may be a bad transmission mount or maybe low transmission fluid that's causing the grinding?

I've also noticed my clutch pedal is starting to get spongy for the first 2-3 inches of it's travel on initial driving. Once I press the clutch pedal about 15 times it comes back up and is firm, however it's still about half and inch lower then where the brake pedal is. Also on hard acceleration when you press in the clutch to shift into second (( won't let you shift into second so I shift into neutral and then third )) the clutch pedal sticks to the floor just for a split second then pops up. Any help would be great!
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to fix it? I'm praying that it's not the transmission synchros causing the grinding and just needs a simple fix! I've noticed the car starting to grind when going into 5th also. The shifting is effortless when keeping below 4k but can hear that very faint grinding in the background.
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