Overcooling issue?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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From: Columbia, SC
Overcooling issue? I may be posting this is the wrong section but my car is a 2002 z28, during a roughly 20 min drive from work my ar only reaches 180F and drops to about 150F when im on the highway goin 60-70 mph, this is only when the temp outside is in the high 20s to low 30s at night. Im guessing its a faulty thermostat? Car heats up like normal in pretty much anything about 45 degrees outside during the day. Just wondering if anyone else has ever had this issue or if its a normal thing. My car does not have the aftermarket 160F t-stat either
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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From: Columbia, SC
Not gonna lie, havent really checked. I'll have to look tomorrow night after work. But i usually start the car and let it warm up to where its at least showing a reading a hair above the 100F mark then ill start rolling towards the gate about 2 miles away and by then its about 150F and right off base is the highway so once i get on that it pretty much stays right around 150F then ill get to where the stop lights are closer to the city and itll get up to about 180F. T-stat change is no big deal, just kinda wanted another opinion on the matter before i went out and got the t-stat and all the coolant heh
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Verdad Gallardo
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
If the heat is hot your temp is wrong. I have a failed open thermostat on a DD currently and it takes a long time for the heat to work and the gauge to come up. Gauge and heater go hand in hand is what I'm getting at. In your case they do not. I suspect a faulty coolant temp sensor. That's what tells the computer where to put the needle anyway. I would confirm actual engine temp before yanking the thermostat. Where are you reading this temp from as the factory doesn't have the markings you speak of?
While I agree it may be a bad temperature sending unit, I'd still suspect the thermostat first as the OP said the temperature goes up then down. This would be the action of the thermostat.
Approximate temperature readings can be extrapolated from the factory gauge.
If this were my car, I'd change both items at the same time as the coolant needs to be drained for both.
Approximate temperature readings can be extrapolated from the factory gauge.
If this were my car, I'd change both items at the same time as the coolant needs to be drained for both.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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From: Columbia, SC
I'm estimating the temp to be in the ranges i posted based of the position of the needle, being that the first mark is 100F and the half way point on the gauge is 210F i just did a lil math and i assume the 1/4 mark on the gauge is 155F. On normal weather days where its not ***** cold the gauge goes right up to to its normal spot, just a hair below the halfway marking. Ill have to get a temp reader and match things up, although I know these temp gauges are known to be some degrees off from where the needle is anyhow
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 9
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From: Columbia, SC
well thats the issue, it only seems to "overcool" at highways speeds. It makes since i suppose being that cool air is being brought into the engine faster at those speeds. and if i just let it sit there and idle itll get right up to the 200F range
I started having this problem aswell during the fall season and it was after I removed all my a/c components which left the rad wide open to cold air all the time.The car takes longer to warm up during the colder weather and once it gets upto temp and start driving..it will cool down to 150* or less.I just did the old cardboard infront of the rad about 45% covered the front of the rad and everything worked as normal again.Wasnt too concerned since I wont be driving the car in the winter..once summer hits then I take the cardboard back out.
Sounds like a new tstat and maybe the cts should be changed for reassurance on your end that both are 100% functional.
Sounds like a new tstat and maybe the cts should be changed for reassurance on your end that both are 100% functional.
