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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Default MAF delete

What are the benefits of removing the MAF unit? And what has to be done besides simply unplugging and removing it?
I am building a custom CAI in my 70 so I have plenty of options with plumbing. My concern is setting up the ECM correctly to run without it. Do I need to add in a intake air temp sensor somewhere? If so, where?
Thanks for any pointers.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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I'm no professional on this topic, but I believe it would require a SD (Speed Density) tune. From what I hear you would need to adjust the tune every so often depending on the weather conditions. Being you are in Seattle, the weather is always changing. You should call Tom @ Wong's Performance in Vancouver. He's not to far from you and he's a top notch tuner. He does all my tuning along with several others in the NW.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by *02WS6TURK*
I'm no professional on this topic, but I believe it would require a SD (Speed Density) tune. From what I hear you would need to adjust the tune every so often depending on the weather conditions. Being you are in Seattle, the weather is always changing. You should call Tom @ Wong's Performance in Vancouver. He's not to far from you and he's a top notch tuner. He does all my tuning along with several others in the NW.
Thanks for the quick reply and local connection. I'll give them a call.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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No problem. IMHO I think you would be better off keeping the MAF. Talk with Tom though and see what he thinks. There is always Ellis out your way to and he tunes/builds as well. Good luck!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by *02WS6TURK*
No problem. IMHO I think you would be better off keeping the MAF. Talk with Tom though and see what he thinks. There is always Ellis out your way to and he tunes/builds as well. Good luck!
I have a MAF unit but there is no screen in it (bought used, didn't know until I got it). And I may have a decent deal on a ECM and harness already tuned very close to what I need, but without MAF.
If it helps to keep it in the system I will. I want ease of use, good street manners and reliable running. I don't want to be stuck dragging my laptop on road trips just to keep the car in check.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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You don't have to do anything per-se, when the computer sees a lack of MAF input then it automatically defaults into speed density mode.

What you do need to do is tune for the fact that you're not going to have a MAF input anymore and get an external IAT sensor to talk to the computer as that's one of the key parameters a speed density tune uses.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by redtan
You don't have to do anything per-se, when the computer sees a lack of MAF input then it automatically defaults into speed density mode.

What you do need to do is tune for the fact that you're not going to have a MAF input anymore and get an external IAT sensor to talk to the computer as that's one of the key parameters a speed density tune uses.
More good info, thanks! Is there any "rule of thumb" on IT placement? Say a set distance from intake bends, TB or air filter?
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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It will drive like **** if you remove it w/o tuning it. Been there, tired it.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFastKid
It will drive like **** if you remove it w/o tuning it. Been there, tired it.
It will be fully tuned for sure.

My questions are for two reasons. One is that I have a crappy MAF unit I may not want to use or replace. The other is because I may want to go turbo later and as I understand it speed density is the way to go with forced induction. Is that correct?

(this MAF unit works fine, but its been modified and I'm not sure I want to see how long it will last and have to deal with it later. May be easier to delete it now)
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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I can understand if you are doing a turbo. If not I wouldn't bother. The gains are next to nothing.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFastKid
I can understand if you are doing a turbo. If not I wouldn't bother. The gains are next to nothing.
Ok thanks. Just the kind of info I'm looking for. If a turbo comes into play it will be way down the road. After the car is built and driving.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:05 PM
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If not I wouldn't bother. The gains are next to nothing.
Surely a 78mm screened MAF is going to impede airflow quite a bit. A bigger straight pipe is worth a good 5-7hp.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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Recently had someone at efi alchemy explain to me about this. Really does take away from the systems ability to adjust to environment changes. If you move to a different temperature/ altitude part of the country, you may need a retune.I,d stick to maf unless you,re into all out racing & constant retuning anyways.
Would not do it bacause you need a new maf.
It is my understanding ,through other's experience that a part such as maf, throttle body, or intake is far less of a restriction issue with air being forced through rather than having to pull it through.
Check out the book on ls1-7 dyno results.
Mid 80,s callaway 200 plus mph corvettes with stock tpi intakes are a good example of this theory.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by redtan
Surely a 78mm screened MAF is going to impede airflow quite a bit. A bigger straight pipe is worth a good 5-7hp.
1-2rwh isn't worth having to mess with the tune all the time
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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So with the different opinions (which I honestly appreciate) it looks like some more research is in order.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:30 AM
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People have argued this for years!!!! It will never come to a conclusion.

Keep your MAF, its an actual airflow meter. Your PCM uses speed density in the background in conjunction with your MAF.

Your plumbing your intake, make room for a MAF.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SweetS10V8
People have argued this for years!!!! It will never come to a conclusion.

Keep your MAF, its an actual airflow meter. Your PCM uses speed density in the background in conjunction with your MAF.

Your plumbing your intake, make room for a MAF.
Good point. Thanks for the input.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SweetS10V8
People have argued this for years!!!! It will never come to a conclusion.

Keep your MAF, its an actual airflow meter. Your PCM uses speed density in the background in conjunction with your MAF.

Your plumbing your intake, make room for a MAF.


^^^ This.

Although, will say that many times we will choose among, stock type fuel trims using MAF, o2's, MAP, temp..etc, Open loop MAF, or Speed Density. Each are effective & are chosen based on the owners preference. Each will effect "normal driving" performance differently. WOT tuning is basically, it's own tune.

Personally, I prefer Open loop MAF. This means that the MAF is used, but normal driving fueling is not trimmed by the 02 sensors.

If you have no room for the MAF, Speed density can work. Yes, w/ speed density, large temp swings can be an issue if it's driven year round.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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1-2rwh isn't worth having to mess with the tune all the time
Who says you have to mess with your tune all the time if you don't have a MAF?

Yes, w/ speed density, large temp swings can be an issue if it's driven year round.
Why? That's why you have an IAT sensor to measure temps and have the PCM adjust accordingly? Never had an issue with the same tune in 0* weather in the winter vs. 90* weather in the summer?
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by redtan
Why? That's why you have an IAT sensor to measure temps and have the PCM adjust accordingly? Never had an issue with the same tune in 0* weather in the winter vs. 90* weather in the summer?

It says "can be"...not will be. Consider yourself fortuneate. IAT sensor is not a do all end all to temp related ignition issues. Log your tune in 0* & then 90* weather. The log will reveal how differently the tune is reacting to the difference in temp. Just 'cuz it's not felt doesn't mean it's not happening.
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