**What Engine Oil Cooler are you using?**
I used to have this Oil cooler adapter but it was impossible to remove the hoses from the adapter once in the engine bay.
Besides, the lower hose was making minimal contact with one of the primaries. I used thermo shield sleeve but was never satisfied with the solution. I could have probably worked around the contact situation with different hose ends but just thought that the aluminum tube would be a better overall solution.
Besides, the lower hose was making minimal contact with one of the primaries. I used thermo shield sleeve but was never satisfied with the solution. I could have probably worked around the contact situation with different hose ends but just thought that the aluminum tube would be a better overall solution.
Last edited by RGSS; Mar 24, 2013 at 03:14 PM.
But I like this one better. Less money, -10 and it's blue!
http://store.katechengines.com/bille...apter-p37.aspx
http://store.katechengines.com/bille...apter-p37.aspx
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 4
From: Burbank, Illinois
Wow that looks very nice!
I have 2" headers on mine and not even the smallest improved racing unit would fit without being right on the header. I ran it all last year and it ran fine and never had high temps.
I have 2" headers on mine and not even the smallest improved racing unit would fit without being right on the header. I ran it all last year and it ran fine and never had high temps.
I went with a Ron Davis oil to water 14 plate cooler. some of the Nascar teams use them. I made a mount for it behind the rad and infront of the harmonic balancer. A few inches to spare. It is not fully installed yet, but will be in a few weeks.
Then I tried several different bypasses and none fit with my 2" Kooks. Not even the Doman one shown. Tubes were against the header and block. Not good.
So I took a Canton adaptor and ported and modified it to fit. No oil thermostat is needed, as the water pump has one. So they will both work of it. I use the large Ron Davis rad with Spal dual fans as well. It was bigger than my BeCool and should keep things under control for long runs on track.
Then I tried several different bypasses and none fit with my 2" Kooks. Not even the Doman one shown. Tubes were against the header and block. Not good.
So I took a Canton adaptor and ported and modified it to fit. No oil thermostat is needed, as the water pump has one. So they will both work of it. I use the large Ron Davis rad with Spal dual fans as well. It was bigger than my BeCool and should keep things under control for long runs on track.
I think this would be the best of all worlds. A high performance oil pan with oil line provisions. Without the ribbing on the stock pan, the lines could tuck neatly under the pan rail. And you could put a remote filter where the A.I.R. pump used to be.
Plenty space for a nice big block style PF35 filter in there.
Plenty space for a nice big block style PF35 filter in there.
If my memory serves correct, the Moroso oil pan is not so good for corners, good for straight line and mild street use though.
I looked at it, as I have a 4.125" stroke.
I looked at it, as I have a 4.125" stroke.
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I am adding an Accusump accumulator as well, just in case.
A video to show how well it keeps oil on the sump no matter what you are doing. Not sure it would work in a roll over.
The idea of using the Moroso pan is for the send & return fittings built into it eliminating the need of an adapter. And without the ribs the stock pan has, the lines can be tucked under the rail away from the headers.
What makes it poor at oil control when compared to the stock pan? I'm not asking how to improve the stock pan.
What makes it poor at oil control when compared to the stock pan? I'm not asking how to improve the stock pan.
The idea of using the Moroso pan is for the send & return fittings built into it eliminating the need of an adapter. And without the ribs the stock pan has, the lines can be tucked under the rail away from the headers.
What makes it poor at oil control when compared to the stock pan? I'm not asking how to improve the stock pan.
What makes it poor at oil control when compared to the stock pan? I'm not asking how to improve the stock pan.
The stock pan had a little bit of walled in area around the pickup. Fine for a stock handling car with an extra quart of oil for insurance.
The Moroso has nothing to keep the oil around the pick up ina corner, though it does have one trap door for acceleration. I have seen someserious drag racing pick ups that have a swivel. So the g force on accelerationwill swing it to the back of the pan with the oil pool, and under braking tothe front. Corners add two extra places for the oil to go. The Improved racingunit shown has multiple trap doors that keep the oil in the sump. My set up has tons of room for the hoses and fittings are no closer than 3/4" to my 2" headers.
As for the oil ports, that is great, but if it will kill your motor, I will take the adaptor I modified with some good oil control thanks. I had tried the Katech, the Dorman and the Hamburger adaptors, none came even close to fitting with the 2" headers.
BTW, the sheet metal pans are not as stiff as the cast. On an LSx motor, it is considered an integral part of the block creating extra stiffness. So you get that benefit with a stock pan as well.
You are welcome to put one on and go to a track day and prove me wrong, but lots of guys track these cars and they do not use that oil pan for a reason.
If you could figure out how to make this pan fit a 4 Gen, I would say it is looks like a good design, but it is for 1st Gens.
http://www.autokraft.org/products/
Last edited by RAMPANT; Mar 26, 2013 at 08:58 AM.
I should mention on my car the clutch would get cranky after 4 back to back passes, so that was my maximum.
Since yours is an auto, I would suggest spending any cooling money on a quality transmission cooler instead. Then you can gain hp, while keep the transmission temps in check by hot lapping. Just a thought.
Good luck!
9 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 13,616
Likes: 185
From: Norn Iron
Old thread. But are you guys sure -8 hose is safe to use ?
The main oil galleries appear to be 1/2" at the smallest, ie in the area of the filter and the little adaptor thing etc.
Whilst typical -8 flexible hose may be close to 1/2" ID, the fittings are not.
Some I have measured here drop down to 3/8" ID on the metal parts. That is quite a reduction in size.
Even -10 metal fittings struggle to hit 1/2" ID although they are close.
To ensure no restriction at all with any fittings becoming smaller than the oil galleries, -12 would really be needed ? The flexible hose might be oversized, bu the metal fittings would be closer to what is really needed to ensure no size reduction.
The main oil galleries appear to be 1/2" at the smallest, ie in the area of the filter and the little adaptor thing etc.
Whilst typical -8 flexible hose may be close to 1/2" ID, the fittings are not.
Some I have measured here drop down to 3/8" ID on the metal parts. That is quite a reduction in size.
Even -10 metal fittings struggle to hit 1/2" ID although they are close.
To ensure no restriction at all with any fittings becoming smaller than the oil galleries, -12 would really be needed ? The flexible hose might be oversized, bu the metal fittings would be closer to what is really needed to ensure no size reduction.
