Header Install Issues
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
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From: Chicago IL
Header Install Issues I finally got a chance to insall my Kooks. The headers themselves actually went in very easily. I only had to remove the oil filter to slide the driver side header in. But after that is when things began to turn bad.
I got the ypipe installed but it is jammed in there hard. I had to pull down on the I-Pipe to get the passanger side part of the y-pipe in. It finally sprang together and pinched the tip of my finger. After alot of blood and some alcohol I was back to work. The driver side was also very hard to get in. The y-pipe seems to be pushed to the passenger side way to far. I can not get the bracket to the transmission connected.
The exahust is in, but will need some adjusting. Now on to the real problem. The car has no power underload. During idle its fine but underload it feels like a bucking horse, very jerky and makes a clunking noise. I doubt this is due to the header install but probably some other issue. I changed my spark plugs & wires, ported my throttle body and removed the AIR system during this same time period aswell.
If anyone has any suggestions to either of my problems please help me out.
TIA
I got the ypipe installed but it is jammed in there hard. I had to pull down on the I-Pipe to get the passanger side part of the y-pipe in. It finally sprang together and pinched the tip of my finger. After alot of blood and some alcohol I was back to work. The driver side was also very hard to get in. The y-pipe seems to be pushed to the passenger side way to far. I can not get the bracket to the transmission connected.
The exahust is in, but will need some adjusting. Now on to the real problem. The car has no power underload. During idle its fine but underload it feels like a bucking horse, very jerky and makes a clunking noise. I doubt this is due to the header install but probably some other issue. I changed my spark plugs & wires, ported my throttle body and removed the AIR system during this same time period aswell.
If anyone has any suggestions to either of my problems please help me out.
TIA
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
From: Brook Park, Ohio
Is the SES light on?
Check your plugs and wires. If a wire is not connected your car will run like crap and won't have any power.
As for the clunking sound, your y-pipe may be banging the floor board.
Check your plugs and wires. If a wire is not connected your car will run like crap and won't have any power.
As for the clunking sound, your y-pipe may be banging the floor board.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: AUSTIN TX
Sorry, I do not have any suggestions other than check for loose, pinched or burnt wires. I do have some questions though. Which headers and y-pipe did you get (mild steel, stainless, 1 3/4, etc) and when did you order them (recently or have you had them sitting around for a while)? The reason I am asking is I was strongly considering ordering a set of these and am just curious. Thanks
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 253
Likes: 1
From: Decatur, IL
How long did you drive it before that SES light came on? When I did my headers, it took about 1/2 hour to turn the light on for the rear O2s not being connected. I still have AIR, so I don't know how how long that one takes. The reason why I'm asking is because if it came on right away, that could be a sign that its detecting something more serious than emissions (like missing plugs, etc). Do you have any way to pull that code?
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
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From: Chicago IL
Could the fact that I reinstalled and plugged the rear O2s back in the ORY-Pipe be an issue? I have borrowed some O2 simms and will put those on today as long as check the plugs & wires.
I am pretty sure that the clunking is y-pipe banging against the floor boards. Is there anyway to check for this? The y-pipe is so jammed that I can not get it out. I think I am going to have to take the catback off to remove the y-pipe. How exactly do I go about removing the catback with out using a sawzaw?
Would it be ok for me to take it for a test drive with open headers, or will I risk burning a valve?
I am pretty sure that the clunking is y-pipe banging against the floor boards. Is there anyway to check for this? The y-pipe is so jammed that I can not get it out. I think I am going to have to take the catback off to remove the y-pipe. How exactly do I go about removing the catback with out using a sawzaw?
Would it be ok for me to take it for a test drive with open headers, or will I risk burning a valve?
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
The Kooks Y-Pipe comes in two pieces, I just had to trim about an 1" - 1.5" off of the drivers side part. The Y-Pipe fits like a charm. Now I have to figure out how to slide my entire catback & I-Pipe forward about 2 inches onto the Y-Pipe. I'll work on it again on Thursday hopefully.
As far as the ignition problem, that will probably have to wait until the weekend.
As far as the ignition problem, that will probably have to wait until the weekend.
