This is a coolant flow "schematic" I drew (the square/round ports represent those on the front of the block):



I removed the spring, measured/calculated its installed-height load, calculated the pressure the BP valve disc (area) requires to balance/overcome the spring.

 

So the bp(what does that stand for btw? Block port?).
Would that make a difference if i didnt have a heater core since you mentioned it? And after reading all that a tstat makes alot more sense to have in. I thought it was much... 'simplier' than what you said. I love being proven wrong, its how i learn

 

BP = bypass (you can see the bypass port in the pump housing when you remove the TS, it is the big passage between the heater ports).

 

Bringing this back from the dead. So i ended up throwing in a 160 degree tstat and the problem got better but still not right.
Its the same problem basically, periodically the engine will go up and down from 190-200ish to 210-215ish. The harder i run it and the longer the hotter it will get. It also happens just cruising home from work.
i bled the system the other week to no avail. I decided to repost as today i noticed after a little burnout(about to get new tires) the idle was a little low -600ish or so and the temp was 220 or so. So i laid off and let it cool down and it returned to normal after a minute or so. Another thing i noted was the loss of power which i believe to be a product of being heat soaked

 

bump on any ideas?
could the pvc be this much of a problem to raise the temperature?
blow by? any ways to test for this without a leak down? i heard putting your hand over the v/c oil opening and feeling for any pressure
open to any ideas on what you guys think it may be!

 

For the temps to go up then down so quickly would push me towards a bad sensor. That's my two cents.

 

Having a little thorn that's bothering me on 110+ degree weather "texas heat" with ac on and in traffic coolant temp goes up from 212-230 and I turn ac off and temp goes down to 210 or less
brand new 3 row radiator ,waterpump,t stat no debris between radiator and condenser and still has air damn in place and both fans are spinning high at all times witj relays on each fan. If anyone has any any info on what it could be I'd appreciate it and also system has no air in it aswell bled out all air

 

Are fans spinning when AC is on...?
Why are fans running on High at all times...?
Is there air trapped on cooling system...?
Are steam vent ports plumbed to correct location...?
Are there any external coolant leaks...?
Are there any internal (block) coolant leaks (test coolant for presence of combustion gasses using test kit)...?
Does level in overflow tank go up when engine gets hot and does it go back down when engine cools down (i.e. is radiator cap working correctly (i.e.bofh pressure reilef valve and vacumm relief valve)...?
Is auto trans cooler (inside radiator) leaking (is AT fluid ok.and not milky)...?

 

Sorry, need go cover all bases.

Does TS have the bypass valve on its rear...?

If you're not running heater core are heater ports looped together at pump...?

 

Yes fans are on with ac on and i have them on high speed at all times cause of this texas heat on other vehicles and never had an issue and steam ports are good and all and there's no visible leaks that I could see and I have an external trans cooler but I haven't done a coolant pressure test but engine isn't milky in any way and hoses look intact to cuts or leaks im lost and at night the car runs cool cool with temps really low

 

And water pump heater core hoses are good and hooked up for heater to work