joecar

This is a coolant flow "schematic" I drew (the square/round ports represent those on the front of the block):



I removed the spring, measured/calculated its installed-height load, calculated the pressure the BP valve disc (area) requires to balance/overcome the spring.

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

So the bp(what does that stand for btw? Block port?).
Would that make a difference if i didnt have a heater core since you mentioned it? And after reading all that a tstat makes alot more sense to have in. I thought it was much... 'simplier' than what you said. I love being proven wrong, its how i learn

joecar

BP = bypass (you can see the bypass port in the pump housing when you remove the TS, it is the big passage between the heater ports).

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

Bringing this back from the dead. So i ended up throwing in a 160 degree tstat and the problem got better but still not right.
Its the same problem basically, periodically the engine will go up and down from 190-200ish to 210-215ish. The harder i run it and the longer the hotter it will get. It also happens just cruising home from work.
i bled the system the other week to no avail. I decided to repost as today i noticed after a little burnout(about to get new tires) the idle was a little low -600ish or so and the temp was 220 or so. So i laid off and let it cool down and it returned to normal after a minute or so. Another thing i noted was the loss of power which i believe to be a product of being heat soaked

88blackiroc

iTrader: (3)

bump on any ideas?
could the pvc be this much of a problem to raise the temperature?
blow by? any ways to test for this without a leak down? i heard putting your hand over the v/c oil opening and feeling for any pressure
open to any ideas on what you guys think it may be!

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

For the temps to go up then down so quickly would push me towards a bad sensor. That's my two cents.