One of the tabs on mine cracked and it rubs on my WS6 hood

 

BS!
Mine cracked even more around seams yesterday. The cracks were alredy there. They just split more. Around the maf. I have z06 maf also. I used electrical tape to wrap it so it doesnt pull air thru the cracks.
Had to remove for oil change

 

I glued a piece of foam to the hood that come with the ls1 intake manifold gaskets for the valley cover.
They help, foam alredy has a adhesive backing side.
But still eventually it wears thru.
I always kept the foam pads. Found a use for em.

 

Mine rubs a little on my ws6 hood too ,but not that bad. The real problem is the crappy material for a $170 lid. These things must be pure profit and they are the only game in town. I'm gonna epoxy mine back together and see how see holds up.

I would actually pay more if they could use a better quality plastic.

 

How about a reply from FTP?! How could they deny all these complaints?

 

Hi Everyone,

The lids are vaccuum formed from two pieces which are glued together at the neck and base of the lid. Sometimes the glue does fail at the joints and requires regluing. When this happens during the warranty period, you can send the lid back and we can send you another one or you can simple re-glue it yourself. There is no way to avoid the joint issue except for going to an injection mold which has a huge initial mold cost.

SLP lids were originally vacuum formed but many years ago they moved to injection molded construction. That is a more durable and precise plastic contruction method but requires very high volume to pay for the mold. SLP also offered OEM blackwing lids which no doubt helped to offset the costs. SLP air lids are only offered for the stock size MAF (largest market segment). We sell and recommend the SLP air lids for those people that only have slightly modified vehicles that would not benefit from a larger lid/MAF.

Considering that 98 and 104mm lids only appeal to a smaller volume of the consumer base (higher HP builds), we were not able to do an injection mold for these lids.

We use an vaccuum formed ABS plastic which is normally very durable. Like all plastic however, it can fail under certain conditions (heat, pressure, exposure to chemicals etc). Anyone that has had a plastic fatigue problems (tabs or front of lid near latch mechanism) from normal use that originally purchase the lid from FTP or one of our authorized dealers can contact us for warranty repairs. You must have a receipt for proof of purchase. We handle each on a case by case basis and have helped out original purchase customers even well beyond the warranty period.

If you purchased your lid used, we cannot assist you. That is one of the advantages of purchasing new directly from us or from one of our authorized dealers.

As far as hood rubbing goes, there is no way to prevent this without significantly downsizing the lid which will affect the flow and performance. We recommend placing some soft adhesive velcro in the contact spots on the hood to prevent paint rub through.

There is a modification you can perform to slightly drop the lid on the base of the air filter assembly but this is at your own risk and voids any warranty on the lids. You can email us for details if you want to perform this modification.

Considering most of the high HP LS1 engine builds utilize the FTP line of airlids, we have only received a very small number of warranty issues. Again, we handle each concern on a case by case basis.

We encourage people that experience problems with our products to contact us directly. There is no way we can monitor and respond to all message forum posts.

Sincerely,

FTP

 

They clearly stated they are cracking around the perimeter though, not necessarily at the joined neck.

 

I think its time for

 

I had no idea there was this rubbing issue when I ordered. I'd rather sacrifice a few hp and not have to cut up a lid or rub the paint off my hood. It's not like these lids are cheap, I know you have to make money but the blackwing lids were only $25 more than the 98mm lid and it's OEM quality.

 

This is my second lid. The first one pretty much did the same thing.

 

Mine has scuff marks on the top where the hood closes on it but im more worried about the crack where the maf slides into.

 

Give us a call M-F 11-5. If you bought the lids directly from us, we will take care of it.

For anyone else that bought a lid new from us our one of our dealers and has plastic fatigue problems like this, give us a call. We handle warranty concerns on a case by case basis.

 

That sure looks like some fragile material, I would not be happy if that is what all of their lids are made of. I am not trying to bash them , but that is pretty cheap looking.

 

I have the ftp 104 and will put it on in a few days. The material and construction seem identical to the direct flo lid I've had on the car for the last 11 years.

 

i just got a 104. seeing these pics i think i'm gonna try to reinforce it in some of the trouble areas. seems there is nothing to lose.

 

I bought mine a year ago and barely used the car. Its cracking and not at the joint either. Mine barely rubs against my hood.

 

Every vaccuum formed lid is made of the same material (ABS plastic). The only different lids will be the SLP's which are injection molded but only available in stock MAF size.

Guys, we have been selling these a LONG TIME and you only see a tiny number of complaints. The sky is not falling!

 

Mine better not do that haha!

 

Mine cracked at the joint near the mouth and just re-glued it..

But as far as it rubbing on the hood, IMO that's the nature of the game with going to a larger lid. Doesn't bother me as much. Kind of like if a C5 guy bashed FAST for their 102 intake not clearing their cowl. But I'm really not a fan of the flimsy plastic and poor fitment.

It is what it is though. I'm not pissed, just a tad little disappointed is all.

Forgot I had this video.

 

Either way the mfg has posted and as long as you bought one from them seems like the will be willing to take care of you.