Water Pump Block Off
Water Pump Block Off Just making sure here...
I have blocked off the ports for the heater hoses on the water pump. I suspect that's ok, but I have seen other members actually run a hose from one to the other....
Does it matter?
I have blocked off the ports for the heater hoses on the water pump. I suspect that's ok, but I have seen other members actually run a hose from one to the other....
Does it matter?
My swap has Vintage Air and their heater control valve is a positive shut-off. I have no problems with my swap overheating. OTOH, Stu Cool never had problems until recently, when he had overheating issues on long grades in the mountains. I don't worry because there are no grades within 500 miles of me. 
The original design was to have continuous flow through the heater ports. On the marine version of the LS motors, they use a bypass hose connecting the 2 ports. I have 2 LS swaps, one with vintage air, the other with classic auto air. Both have heater control valves without a bypass. So far, no issues.
In your case where you simply want to eliminate the heater hoses, I would use a bypass hose. There is a part number for one somewhere in the conversions forum. Probably easier and cheaper than removing the fittings, tapping and plugging the water pump too.
In your case where you simply want to eliminate the heater hoses, I would use a bypass hose. There is a part number for one somewhere in the conversions forum. Probably easier and cheaper than removing the fittings, tapping and plugging the water pump too.
The original design was to have continuous flow through the heater ports. On the marine version of the LS motors, they use a bypass hose connecting the 2 ports. I have 2 LS swaps, one with vintage air, the other with classic auto air. Both have heater control valves without a bypass. So far, no issues.
In your case where you simply want to eliminate the heater hoses, I would use a bypass hose. There is a part number for one somewhere in the conversions forum. Probably easier and cheaper than removing the fittings, tapping and plugging the water pump too.
In your case where you simply want to eliminate the heater hoses, I would use a bypass hose. There is a part number for one somewhere in the conversions forum. Probably easier and cheaper than removing the fittings, tapping and plugging the water pump too.
There is a spring loaded metal diaphram that separates the hot and cold ports. I wouldn't make it an urgent issue, but would add the crossover hose when possible. I have noticed the water temp increases more gradually when the heater control valves are open, but that's the only difference I've noticed so far.
