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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 09:05 AM
  #21  
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Sorry fellas but unplugging the MAF defaults to the stock VE table. It's a free speed density tune. However, you are relying on only the 02s to make immediate fueling changes. If they are working fine then there is no issue. Before you had the MAF helping out, now you don't. One less fail safe but not terrible bc that's what all SD tunes rely on. Losing a MAF is not the end of the world and I can assure those skeptical ones, you won't know its gone by riding in the car.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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What year car is it? Does it have a stock tune still in the car? Does it throw any codes with the MAF plugged in?

From the factory most tunes are setup rich depending on the year model of the car and OS. Unplugging the MAF is putting the car in SD. That extra rich mixture gives the car a quicker throttle response feel but ultimately is just wasting fuel. SD also is normally more crisp with throttle response on the factory tunes. However if the car is just sluggish with the MAF plugged in but doesn't throw codes for it then the MAF isn't bad. The car sounds like it just needs a tune on it as well as the MAF cleaned. There is 0 power difference between having a MAF and not on a 346 especially with no heads or cam. The airflow demand just isn't great enough to gain any power without the MAF in the airstream.

Lastly I think if a shop charges more for a SD tune that you need to look elsewhere. Why? A proper MAF tune requires the VE table be fully dialed in as well which is the volumetric efficiency table a speed density tune runs from. With the MAF turned on those quick throttle transients still rely on that VE table for fueling in which the MAF is not quick enough to compensate for. So in the end a normal MAF tune if done right should be able to turn into a SD tune very easily by either setting a few fail points in the tune or just unplugging the MAF sensor. This is how I do tunes and if someone says you don't have to calibrate the VE then you know you are getting a half *** tune!
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:03 PM
  #23  
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My last professional tune had a VE table that looked like a picnic table...lol... Now my self done tune is transparent wether on the VE or Maf. Sometimes you just don't get what you pay for
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:48 PM
  #24  
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Get the codes pulled first and foremost. I'm willing to bet it's not the MAF.....

I run a stock MAF and have 450 at the tires. I pull no vacuum to warrant even an 85mm MAF. When I do, I'll go bigger, be it 85 or a custom 90mm with a card MAF.

I also run a K&N. Clean it, and re-oil it LIGHTLY. K&N is great, just don't over-oil it.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 08:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Mista Blazer
because im not going to tune the car till i get my H/C install im not going to tune the car for 175 and then turn in a few months and spend it again, if i can tune it out i wont have to bother getting another maf. my maf right now is unplugged, if i plug it in, it seems to retard the car and i feel sluggish aha. i havnt cleaned my K&N since it only has 1500 on it. so unless the factory sent me one with "to much oil" on it then they owe me a new MAF ahahah
just out of curiosity is your car M6 or A4? and yes i undestand about what you said but a 40$ is kind of cheap to avoid all the headache or tune and what not atleast till you get your cam and head on.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 07:44 AM
  #26  
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Finally some.comments worth replying to lol, I do pull codes with the maf plugged in. If I'm not mistaking its p0102 which essentially is maf failure. I even went threw the steps of checking my dipstick... lmao it was a solution given xD the car is an A4 and everything on the motor itself is stock. Exhaust is cut cats, to magnaflow single in dual out. The car is a 1998 with stock tune
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #27  
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I would invest $6 in some MAF Cleaner. I picked up a can at Autozone and it cleaned up some issues with my 186k Grand Prix. I wouldn't want to run a car with sensors unplugged.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 01:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by smg267
I would invest $6 in some MAF Cleaner. I picked up a can at Autozone and it cleaned up some issues with my 186k Grand Prix. I wouldn't want to run a car with sensors unplugged.
That's just the issue, after cleaning it only runs fine for a few days then I'm back to square one with it.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 02:29 PM
  #29  
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Did you ever think of just cleaning the K&N filter to get rid of the excess oil? Seems pretty simple, then clean the MAF & see what happens. You seem like you have your mind made up already as far as not using the MAF sensor. I hope you're not under the impression that SD is gonna net you more power. I'd sell the stupid K&N, then use the money towards getting a good MAF & a paper filter. All you're doing is making things difficult.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mista Blazer
Finally some.comments worth replying to lol, I do pull codes with the maf plugged in. If I'm not mistaking its p0102 which essentially is maf failure. I even went threw the steps of checking my dipstick... lmao it was a solution given xD the car is an A4 and everything on the motor itself is stock. Exhaust is cut cats, to magnaflow single in dual out. The car is a 1998 with stock tune
arent you noticing very hard shifting with the maf unplugged? you could be running high tranny line pressure without knowing it.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 04:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by omarrakeen
arent you noticing very hard shifting with the maf unplugged? you could be running high tranny line pressure without knowing it.
This has actually gone away, what it would do is from reverse to nutral it would kick up to about 1100 -1200 RPM then to drive it would feel rough, but 1->2->3->4 is all happy go lucky even under WOT


AS far as the oil goes on the filter i have taken a couple of shop rags to damp off the excess oil. believe it or not there was quite a bit. i might clean up the old maf and see if that was the issue.
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 08:27 PM
  #32  
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Did someone dip the filter in a 5gal bucket of oil? I've put new k&n filters in all my cars and never once have I had to clean the MAF or had erratic MAF readings.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mista Blazer
This has actually gone away, what it would do is from reverse to nutral it would kick up to about 1100 -1200 RPM then to drive it would feel rough, but 1->2->3->4 is all happy go lucky even under WOT


AS far as the oil goes on the filter i have taken a couple of shop rags to damp off the excess oil. believe it or not there was quite a bit. i might clean up the old maf and see if that was the issue.
this "rough" you're referring to is high line pressure. i HIGHLY advise you not to wot with the MAF unplugged. i know it is running on speed density but still i wouldnt risk my tranny. good luck.
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Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #34  
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If you wanted to keep the SD setup, I could set it up where the "max line pressure" wouldn't trip and would keep line pressure normal. The 98's in SD will creep lean at idle sitting still though because the IAT sensor heat soaks and will lean the fueling out. So if you do go full SD relocate your IAT into the fender or front bumper to help keep fueling consistent.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mista Blazer
please do explian. and how this contributes to removing the MAF
^
lol
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #36  
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+

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Don't understand why everyone messes with the MAF. Correct me if I am wrong but Mightymouse was running 10's with a stock MAF and Intake with his old car.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by WS6_Veteran

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Don't understand why everyone messes with the MAF. Correct me if I am wrong but Mightymouse was running 10's with a stock MAF and Intake with his old car.

I will clean the 2 MAF's that i have around my garage. and make a video the next morning of her "trying" to stay running after a cold start i havnt tried cleaning my maf after wixing off the exsess oil off the filter.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6_Veteran

Don't understand why everyone messes with the MAF. Correct me if I am wrong but Mightymouse was running 10's with a stock MAF and Intake with his old car.
Quit acting like because it's been done once it's the norm.
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Mista Blazer
I will clean the 2 MAF's that i have around my garage. and make a video the next morning of her "trying" to stay running after a cold start i havnt tried cleaning my maf after wixing off the exsess oil off the filter.
When you do the next cleaning, you may need to take the screen off and use a Q-Tip and magnifying glass with the MAF cleaner to get the gunk off. The oil will form a sheen on the MAF elements, which look black between the twists of the wires.

The wires are delicate, so its not something to do in a rush, in a fit of frustration, or any other altered state of wellbeing.


I solved this problem by putting a K&N sticker on my intake but secretly sneaking a paper air filter under the lid. Nobody can tell the difference! lol
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 03:30 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by wssix99
When you do the next cleaning, you may need to take the screen off and use a Q-Tip and magnifying glass with the MAF cleaner to get the gunk off. The oil will form a sheen on the MAF elements, which look black between the twists of the wires.

The wires are delicate, so its not something to do in a rush, in a fit of frustration, or any other altered state of wellbeing.


I solved this problem by putting a K&N sticker on my intake but secretly sneaking a paper air filter under the lid. Nobody can tell the difference! lol
I actually used rubbing alcohle and i havnt had an issue so far. infact the car has stopped its little vibration around 80mph or 3400RPMS thank you so much for the idea of cleaning with the Q-Tips!
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