Header Coating
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 212
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From: Fairfax, VA
Header Coating Hello I am thinking about doing an LSx 5.3/t56 swap into an S10 and am trying to get all of my major parts priced out so I know what to expect. Im looking at two different sets of LT headers, the Current Performance 1 7/8 Stainless Steel Headers, or the BRP Hot Rods 1 3/4 Ceramic Coated Headers? Which is better the smaller diameter ceramic coated or the stainless steel 1 7/8? size might be irrelevant, but will the stainless steel headers last or will they need to be coated? I know stainless rusts slower than mild steel, but will it they be ok uncoated?
Thanks
Thanks
For the 5.3 I'd go with the 1 3/4" and get Stainless. Check with the manufacturer, as they're all different and use different grades of stainless, but I'd wrap them before I'd coat them, unless you got a hell of a deal on the coating.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 212
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From: Fairfax, VA
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
So just because the engine is a smaller displacement i should get the smaller diameter? Is it bad if i put on the 1 7/8? As in is the engine looking for a little bit of back pressure and/or do the 1 5/8 flow too much?
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11 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: The Burnie, MD
It's all about flow. The question here is: Does the 5.3 flow enough to take advantage of the 1 7/8". I don't know the answer to that, but you have to ask yourself, Are you always going to have a stock-ish 5.3? If not, the 1 7/8" headers are good insurance IMO.
As for the ceramic coating. I had my custom SS headers coated by Nitro Plate. Very affordable and great job.
I looked into wrap. Most of what I read said not to wrap SS. Also, most ceramic coating places will not warranty their coating if its wrapped.
I would go SS and get then ceramic coated. It will reduce the under hood temps and also prevent rust (yes stainless can rust). I'm not a big fan of rapping headers particularly for street cars. Wrap can get wet and hold the moisture against the metal not allowing it to dry out, this can cause rust.
That's my reasoning others might have reasons for using it that work for them.
That's why there is chockalott & vanilla.
That's my reasoning others might have reasons for using it that work for them.
That's why there is chockalott & vanilla.
Yes stainless will rust if made of the cheaper grades (like 409) but they turn a dodo brown and nothing like mild steel. You would probably oxidize any metal out under the right conditions (such as marine applications). But exhaust made of 3XX and you will be good.
As far as coatings, I have not seen any hard evidence (I am not saying it doesn't exists) showing the benefits of a coated 3XX stainless header. I have not looked at it in quite a while but the Burns Stainless site talks about the thermal properties of stainless and the benefits. I guess a heat gun and a before and after test in similar ambient conditions would be the best bet.
I guess that doesn't say if you have the money and still want to do it don't. It will keep them nice looking and prevent them turning a bluish/purplish hue. As far as the headers as the size I would go 1 7/8 if they are the F-body design. There was a post in a thread on this site that explained it well. Not that it means anything but I saved the contents of the post as I felt it was that much better an explanation compared to what others state on this site.
As far as coatings, I have not seen any hard evidence (I am not saying it doesn't exists) showing the benefits of a coated 3XX stainless header. I have not looked at it in quite a while but the Burns Stainless site talks about the thermal properties of stainless and the benefits. I guess a heat gun and a before and after test in similar ambient conditions would be the best bet.
I guess that doesn't say if you have the money and still want to do it don't. It will keep them nice looking and prevent them turning a bluish/purplish hue. As far as the headers as the size I would go 1 7/8 if they are the F-body design. There was a post in a thread on this site that explained it well. Not that it means anything but I saved the contents of the post as I felt it was that much better an explanation compared to what others state on this site.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 212
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From: Fairfax, VA
Yeah MX6.0, i'm pretty sure I'm never going to go forced induction(and if i do it will be a twin screw if i can find a good one, or a procharger). I might end up with a thumpier cam and bigger heads once im out of high school and college and can afford the gas haha, but not right now. I would really like to do a turbo build, but I don't know if i should bother later.
Plus, ive seen a few people complain about BRPs products and dont know if i should risk it on headers. I think im going to buy their swap kit because it comes with a crossmember but am almost hesitant now.
Thanks for all the input guys its really helping!
Plus, ive seen a few people complain about BRPs products and dont know if i should risk it on headers. I think im going to buy their swap kit because it comes with a crossmember but am almost hesitant now.
Thanks for all the input guys its really helping!
