kinda disappointed in headers.....
05-11-2004, 05:31 PM
#22
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you will have to notch the kmember and bend the pipes down. Pacesetters are designed to not scrape on every speed bump, they just forgot about the rapping the floorboard, if it makes you feel any better the knock sensors will trip and retard timing when this is happening. i logged this with efilive. My great mechanic took the car back, used cutter to k member, torch and big 2x4 and 3-4 people and mangled the unit and its been perfect since, no KR, no banging. It was horrible.
TSP acknowledged my complaint and forwarded it to pacesetter who said "We'll work on the fitment in future versions" lol. great. Not like i'd want to take them off.
Just gotta get manly with it and it will be fine. Everyone has had the same troubles. I also did the poly trans mount which helped, and if your motor mounts are shot you might consider doing one of them (REAL PITA) but i didn't need them in the end. just the $20 poly trans mount which isn't that bad in the vibe dept.
I've never had issues with speed bumps, the hookers my bro has the clamps scrape going sideways over the speed bumps so its give and take.
overall for the money saved i dont think they are that bad, but they are definitely not the best design. They are cost effective and probably make just as much power as any other +$100 headers out there.
would i buy them again? nope. But who wants to swap out headers and redo the Y pipe now that its been done. too much work. As i said once its been dealt with it won't bother you.
If you are really impatient, take a valve spring and wedge it between the drivers side on the ORY you'll get rid of 80% of the rattling till you can have it fixed.
ghetto, yeah, but it was better than the aweful noise and the KR.
TSP acknowledged my complaint and forwarded it to pacesetter who said "We'll work on the fitment in future versions" lol. great. Not like i'd want to take them off.
Just gotta get manly with it and it will be fine. Everyone has had the same troubles. I also did the poly trans mount which helped, and if your motor mounts are shot you might consider doing one of them (REAL PITA) but i didn't need them in the end. just the $20 poly trans mount which isn't that bad in the vibe dept.
I've never had issues with speed bumps, the hookers my bro has the clamps scrape going sideways over the speed bumps so its give and take.
overall for the money saved i dont think they are that bad, but they are definitely not the best design. They are cost effective and probably make just as much power as any other +$100 headers out there.
would i buy them again? nope. But who wants to swap out headers and redo the Y pipe now that its been done. too much work. As i said once its been dealt with it won't bother you.
If you are really impatient, take a valve spring and wedge it between the drivers side on the ORY you'll get rid of 80% of the rattling till you can have it fixed.
ghetto, yeah, but it was better than the aweful noise and the KR.
05-11-2004, 05:36 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by samz28
you will have to notch the kmember and bend the pipes down. Pacesetters are designed to not scrape on every speed bump, they just forgot about the rapping the floorboard, if it makes you feel any better the knock sensors will trip and retard timing when this is happening. i logged this with efilive. My great mechanic took the car back, used cutter to k member, torch and big 2x4 and 3-4 people and mangled the unit and its been perfect since, no KR, no banging. It was horrible.
TSP acknowledged my complaint and forwarded it to pacesetter who said "We'll work on the fitment in future versions" lol. great. Not like i'd want to take them off.
Just gotta get manly with it and it will be fine. Everyone has had the same troubles. I also did the poly trans mount which helped, and if your motor mounts are shot you might consider doing one of them (REAL PITA) but i didn't need them in the end. just the $20 poly trans mount which isn't that bad in the vibe dept.
I've never had issues with speed bumps, the hookers my bro has the clamps scrape going sideways over the speed bumps so its give and take.
overall for the money saved i dont think they are that bad, but they are definitely not the best design. They are cost effective and probably make just as much power as any other +$100 headers out there.
would i buy them again? nope. But who wants to swap out headers and redo the Y pipe now that its been done. too much work. As i said once its been dealt with it won't bother you.
If you are really impatient, take a valve spring and wedge it between the drivers side on the ORY you'll get rid of 80% of the rattling till you can have it fixed.
ghetto, yeah, but it was better than the aweful noise and the KR.
TSP acknowledged my complaint and forwarded it to pacesetter who said "We'll work on the fitment in future versions" lol. great. Not like i'd want to take them off.
Just gotta get manly with it and it will be fine. Everyone has had the same troubles. I also did the poly trans mount which helped, and if your motor mounts are shot you might consider doing one of them (REAL PITA) but i didn't need them in the end. just the $20 poly trans mount which isn't that bad in the vibe dept.
I've never had issues with speed bumps, the hookers my bro has the clamps scrape going sideways over the speed bumps so its give and take.
overall for the money saved i dont think they are that bad, but they are definitely not the best design. They are cost effective and probably make just as much power as any other +$100 headers out there.
would i buy them again? nope. But who wants to swap out headers and redo the Y pipe now that its been done. too much work. As i said once its been dealt with it won't bother you.
If you are really impatient, take a valve spring and wedge it between the drivers side on the ORY you'll get rid of 80% of the rattling till you can have it fixed.
ghetto, yeah, but it was better than the aweful noise and the KR.
05-11-2004, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by J2KSS
It will get louder once the fiberglass packing burns out the bullet. I know mine did.
05-11-2004, 10:25 PM
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Hourang was talking about my car 
Have the y-pipe bent down, it's the only way. If after that it still comes through the pedal, that's hittin the k-member and needs to be notched, i need to do that still, UGH
Jeff- we need to get a skinny dremmel attachment and fix mine
Oh yes, almost forgot, when I got my car dyno'd, they hit the k-member, caused 2* of KR and I lost about 10hp in the top end.
-Steve
Have the y-pipe bent down, it's the only way. If after that it still comes through the pedal, that's hittin the k-member and needs to be notched, i need to do that still, UGHJeff- we need to get a skinny dremmel attachment and fix mine
Oh yes, almost forgot, when I got my car dyno'd, they hit the k-member, caused 2* of KR and I lost about 10hp in the top end.
-Steve
05-11-2004, 10:40 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by v8maro
Hourang was talking about my car Have the y-pipe bent down, it's the only way. If after that it still comes through the pedal, that's hittin the k-member and needs to be notched, i need to do that still, UGH
Jeff- we need to get a skinny dremmel attachment and fix mine
Oh yes, almost forgot, when I got my car dyno'd, they hit the k-member, caused 2* of KR and I lost about 10hp in the top end.
-Steve
Have the y-pipe bent down, it's the only way. If after that it still comes through the pedal, that's hittin the k-member and needs to be notched, i need to do that still, UGHJeff- we need to get a skinny dremmel attachment and fix mine
Oh yes, almost forgot, when I got my car dyno'd, they hit the k-member, caused 2* of KR and I lost about 10hp in the top end.
-Steve
05-11-2004, 10:55 PM
#28
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it depends on where it is hitting. Most likely right under where your feet go. If you look under the car you will see where the y is actually kinda smushed from pacesetter, it's probably still banging around there.
-Steve
-Steve
05-11-2004, 11:49 PM
#29
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I had my y-pipe heated and bent down also on the drivers side. They'll have to do it right after the collector to y-pipe merge. Depending on what part of SE Texas your from, I could refer you to my friends muffler shop. If your anywhere close to about 30 miles south of Houston, let me know.
If not, most muffler shops should be able to figure out where to heat and bend... good luck!
If not, most muffler shops should be able to figure out where to heat and bend... good luck!
05-11-2004, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1BirdDRG
I had my y-pipe heated and bent down also on the drivers side. They'll have to do it right after the collector to y-pipe merge. Depending on what part of SE Texas your from, I could refer you to my friends muffler shop. If your anywhere close to about 30 miles south of Houston, let me know.
If not, most muffler shops should be able to figure out where to heat and bend... good luck!
If not, most muffler shops should be able to figure out where to heat and bend... good luck!
has your friend done that before, to your car?
05-12-2004, 12:10 AM
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I'll pm you with the info for the shop and directions due to the non- sponsor thing.
Yes, they worked on my Y-pipe, and have been doing most of my exhaust work on other cars for over 15 years.
You may need to do a poly trans mount, stock ones are weak and tend to crack and move alot anyway.
I'll send you the pm info tomorrow.
Yes, they worked on my Y-pipe, and have been doing most of my exhaust work on other cars for over 15 years.
You may need to do a poly trans mount, stock ones are weak and tend to crack and move alot anyway.
I'll send you the pm info tomorrow.
05-12-2004, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1BirdDRG
I'll pm you with the info for the shop and directions due to the non- sponsor thing.
Yes, they worked on my Y-pipe, and have been doing most of my exhaust work on other cars for over 15 years.
You may need to do a poly trans mount, stock ones are weak and tend to crack and move alot anyway.
I'll send you the pm info tomorrow.
Yes, they worked on my Y-pipe, and have been doing most of my exhaust work on other cars for over 15 years.
You may need to do a poly trans mount, stock ones are weak and tend to crack and move alot anyway.
I'll send you the pm info tomorrow.
