Starter question
Starter question I just installed a new motor, and decided I would be ahead of the curve and rebuild my 12yr old starter (which had worked well with my previous 10.9cr blown motor) because I DEFINITLY didn't want to have to pull the headers to fix an old starter.
WELL: I need some help diagnosing an issue, because I appear to be having starter issues (started from the first time I tried to crank the motor)
I am getting a click, from when the bendix is going into the flywheel but NOT turning it. I have charged (and tested) the battery, and even swapped my wife's 1yr old battery in, so not it.
I can look at it from the inspection hole, and see the bendix go into the flywheel and stop. I can move the flywheel with a screwdriver, so the motor is fine. I have tapped and tapped on the starter while my wife is trying to crank it.
Is there ANYTHING else that could cause the starter motor not to be able to turn the motor, before I spend hrs pulling this starter?
Thanks
WELL: I need some help diagnosing an issue, because I appear to be having starter issues (started from the first time I tried to crank the motor)
I am getting a click, from when the bendix is going into the flywheel but NOT turning it. I have charged (and tested) the battery, and even swapped my wife's 1yr old battery in, so not it.
I can look at it from the inspection hole, and see the bendix go into the flywheel and stop. I can move the flywheel with a screwdriver, so the motor is fine. I have tapped and tapped on the starter while my wife is trying to crank it.
Is there ANYTHING else that could cause the starter motor not to be able to turn the motor, before I spend hrs pulling this starter?
Thanks
I cant get to the crank bolt (on a C5 with the rack in the way)
The motor moves easy, but it seems like the starter motor is not activating.
It has "clicked" several times since the install, but it would eventually turn over.
The motor moves easy, but it seems like the starter motor is not activating.
It has "clicked" several times since the install, but it would eventually turn over.
That usually means not enough amps getting to the starter to spin the motor. Do a load test on the battery, and recheck all your connections. Especially the grounds. Make sure everything is clean and tight.
Thanks boB
I borrowed my wife's practically new battery, and it did the exact same thing with hers.
I think the starter is grounded to the block, so the ground should be good
I really seems as if the starter motor is not getting "the signal" to spin. The bendix is hitting hard, but there is no sound of the starter motor trying to do anything.. I've got 12+ volts going to the starter positive, but after that, I don't know.
I borrowed my wife's practically new battery, and it did the exact same thing with hers.
I think the starter is grounded to the block, so the ground should be good
I really seems as if the starter motor is not getting "the signal" to spin. The bendix is hitting hard, but there is no sound of the starter motor trying to do anything.. I've got 12+ volts going to the starter positive, but after that, I don't know.
The solenoid has two functions. It pushes the gear drive towards the flywheel/flexplate and it closes a pair of contacts that sends voltage to the motor windings.
It sounds to me that the contacts in the solenoid have a problem.
It sounds to me that the contacts in the solenoid have a problem.
That's what I was thinking because the starter never seems to engage
I took some volt readings that just confuse the problem for me...
(after a few tries)
Battery voltage at battery - 12.54
voltage at hot wire - 12.44
voltage at small wire with ignition switch on (trying to crank) - 9.8
voltage at starter nut with ignition switched on (trying to crank) - 2.6
I took some volt readings that just confuse the problem for me...
(after a few tries)
Battery voltage at battery - 12.54
voltage at hot wire - 12.44
voltage at small wire with ignition switch on (trying to crank) - 9.8
voltage at starter nut with ignition switched on (trying to crank) - 2.6
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Verdad Gallardo Well; I pulled the starter and bench tested it and it worked perfect every time
The positive cables were corroded so I cleaned them up and installed. I tested it before going any further and it worked perfect and strong
I reinstalled headers and decided to test before going further and it turned once and now does NOTHING, but dims the lights
battery voltage - 12.2+
hot wire - - 12.2+
s wire - 11.9
starter lug - 11.8+
Any ideas
The positive cables were corroded so I cleaned them up and installed. I tested it before going any further and it worked perfect and strong
I reinstalled headers and decided to test before going further and it turned once and now does NOTHING, but dims the lights
battery voltage - 12.2+
hot wire - - 12.2+
s wire - 11.9
starter lug - 11.8+
Any ideas
Last edited by BOTTLE ROCKET; May 21, 2014 at 03:11 PM.
Replace the battery cable with something bigger. You're losing about 0.4-0.5V through that cable you're using. Not a lot of volts, but clearly enough amps are lost to cause a problem.
It's curious that the problem only occurs when you install the headers. Something is happening to that cable when you bolt the headers on. Put a volt meter on the starter lug, and slowly remove the headers. Keep an eye on the volt meter, and see at what point does the problem resolve.
It's curious that the problem only occurs when you install the headers. Something is happening to that cable when you bolt the headers on. Put a volt meter on the starter lug, and slowly remove the headers. Keep an eye on the volt meter, and see at what point does the problem resolve.
I pulled the cables back off, cleaned the terminals and cables and reinstalled.
I tried the battery out of my wifes car, and it had the same issue. I have NOT done it since I pulled, and reinstalled the starter
Measuring at the battery and at the starter lug gives the exact reading. The difference in volts is from the hot wire side of the solenoid that goes to the starter lug on the solenoid.
Can I "assume" this with the volt readings I am receiving?
With the starter S wire getting 11.9 (needs 10-12) it would seem that the signal to the starter is there. (SO, ignition to starter is not the problem)
With the starter side of the solenoid getting "almost" 12 volts the solenoid is activating the starter motor (although it is not working)
**The problem is either a battery with not enough amps, or bad starter***
Is there anything else it could be????
Thanks for the help
I tried the battery out of my wifes car, and it had the same issue. I have NOT done it since I pulled, and reinstalled the starter
Measuring at the battery and at the starter lug gives the exact reading. The difference in volts is from the hot wire side of the solenoid that goes to the starter lug on the solenoid.
Can I "assume" this with the volt readings I am receiving?
With the starter S wire getting 11.9 (needs 10-12) it would seem that the signal to the starter is there. (SO, ignition to starter is not the problem)
With the starter side of the solenoid getting "almost" 12 volts the solenoid is activating the starter motor (although it is not working)
**The problem is either a battery with not enough amps, or bad starter***
Is there anything else it could be????
Thanks for the help
From your first post:
Is this still the condition? You try to start the engine and the solenoid pushes the gear into the flywheel teeth but the motor won't spin? Please confirm.
IF YES, hang the starter next to the engine with all the wires connected and get a jumper cable to connect the starter housing to the block for a ground.
Does the starter motor now spin?
IF YES, hang the starter next to the engine with all the wires connected and get a jumper cable to connect the starter housing to the block for a ground.
Does the starter motor now spin?
From your first post:
Is this still the condition? You try to start the engine and the solenoid pushes the gear into the flywheel teeth but the motor won't spin? Please confirm.
IF YES, hang the starter next to the engine with all the wires connected and get a jumper cable to connect the starter housing to the block for a ground.
Does the starter motor now spin?
Is this still the condition? You try to start the engine and the solenoid pushes the gear into the flywheel teeth but the motor won't spin? Please confirm.
IF YES, hang the starter next to the engine with all the wires connected and get a jumper cable to connect the starter housing to the block for a ground.
Does the starter motor now spin?
Now, it has voltage to the starter lug when the key is turned, but there is no sound at all. It dims the lights, but there is no click or anything
I load tested the battery yesterday and it held, so I have removed the starter(again) and took it by the shop this morning.
I will update with more questions or the solution
You checked that battery, and it works.
You benched tested the starter and solenoid, and they work.
Continuing to retest those components is probably a waste of your time.