Right part (oxygen sensor) for header install?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 5
Right part (oxygen sensor) for header install? Hi everyone,
I'm finally getting around to putting together a header package from Texas Speed and have been told to not bother trying to get the old O2's out since mine are stock and likely permanently in place.
So can someone confirm this is the correct replacement part (I need 2 I assume):
Thank you in advance,
justin
I'm finally getting around to putting together a header package from Texas Speed and have been told to not bother trying to get the old O2's out since mine are stock and likely permanently in place.
So can someone confirm this is the correct replacement part (I need 2 I assume):
Thank you in advance,
justin
Many people, myself included, have used the C5 Bosch 13111 O2. Nice long cable and higher wattage heater so it gets to closed loop sooner. It's been discussed a bunch of times around here.
I personally prefer the ACDelco Corvette sensor 213-810. It's currently $10 more than the Bosch, but I find piece of mind with a GM-spec electronic part.
Forget header bolts -- go with studs. It makes hanging the header/gasket so much easier. You can find them on eBay for around $30-$40. FWIW, ARP are $100+
Forget header bolts -- go with studs. It makes hanging the header/gasket so much easier. You can find them on eBay for around $30-$40. FWIW, ARP are $100+
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I've had better luck with the AC Delco o2's. They switched faster on my car.
Paul Bell: Are you sure the Bosch 13111 has a higher wattage heater? A few years ago I spoke with a Bosch tech guy and he said their thimble style sensors all use the same heater.
Paul Bell: Are you sure the Bosch 13111 has a higher wattage heater? A few years ago I spoke with a Bosch tech guy and he said their thimble style sensors all use the same heater.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 5
Demonspeed, are they really that necessary? I don't want to cheap out but that is like 10% the cost of the install for some bolts.
Do people reuse existing bolts, and if not can someone find me (preferably Amazon or TexasSpeed for ease of ordering) some less expensive alternatives?
Do people reuse existing bolts, and if not can someone find me (preferably Amazon or TexasSpeed for ease of ordering) some less expensive alternatives?
And I'd personally spend 15 minutes rather than any money at all and just repin the PCM so the rear O2 ports read as the fronts.... reuse the sensors you already have, and the cable length is perfect.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...vette-o2s.html
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 5
Thank you! I can deal with the $40 for those. And stupid question but they sell the same kit in hex and 12-pt ends. For a standard ratchet is there a preference?
I meant that you can get away much cheaper than the ARP studs. I bought a set of stainless header studs from "Alper Motorsports" on eBay for $36, IIRC, when I did my install. It just makes the process so much easier because you put the studs in the head, hang the gasket, then feed the header up and slid it on. That's it! You can do it by yourself, you don't need to fight trying to thread the bolts under the cowl, and it saves you time and frustration. That's why I'm such a proponent to using the studs. With that said, no, they are not required and you can reuse the stock stuff or use whatever is included with the headers.
But another advantage to the studs, that I just realized, is that it's easy to avoid cross threading them, the same can't be said for the bolts lol.
Last edited by ShevrolayZ28; Jul 2, 2014 at 03:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 5
Another question:
With my mainly stock (no big engine mods done or planned) is there a big difference between the 1 3/4" and the 1 7/8" headers? The price isn't much different, I'm thinking more in terms of ease of installation and ground clearance, and if its really worth it without going heavily modded.
Thanks again.
With my mainly stock (no big engine mods done or planned) is there a big difference between the 1 3/4" and the 1 7/8" headers? The price isn't much different, I'm thinking more in terms of ease of installation and ground clearance, and if its really worth it without going heavily modded.
Thanks again.
I think the Speed Engineering headers are only like $30 difference between the two sizes. I'd go with the larger primaries as they've been shown to make more power even with stock internals.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 5
The heaters have been discussed many times here. While I haven't researched or tested them personally, they did work very well for me. If the need arises again, I'd use them again.
I'm using this inexpensive stud from Dorman. They're the perfect length and have a hex to help get them in. They'll bottom out in the head to take advantage of all the threads in the head eliminating the chance of pulling out the threads. NOT stainless steel-which I hate using on any high-stress fastener application.
I think I got the 12 point nuts from ARP. The washers are Nord-Lock, which positively lock any nut or bolt head. I'm gonna add a stainless washer because the through holes in the header flanges are a bit oversized.
I think I got the 12 point nuts from ARP. The washers are Nord-Lock, which positively lock any nut or bolt head. I'm gonna add a stainless washer because the through holes in the header flanges are a bit oversized.
