Header Bolts ARP vs Kooks vs Stage 8
Header Bolts ARP vs Kooks vs Stage 8 So I've got a set of Kooks 1 7/8" Long Tube headers and a new style Kooks Off Road Y Pipe en route to be put my '02 WS6.
I don't like the idea of reusing the stock bolts that have seen just over 100k miles of high heat.
So some question that I couldn't find answers to on here. Maybe my search fu is weak, but I didn't find them.
ARP bolts, are they really worth $100+ when I can get the stage 8 for ~$35?
How do the Stage 8 compare to OEM bolts?
Does anyone have specs on the Kooks bolts? How many bolts come in the listing on there website (link is below)?
General thoughts?
Thanks ahead of time.
http://marylandspeed.com/arp-stainle...01-p-5486.html
http://marylandspeed.com/stage-8-loc...00-p-1006.html
http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-...bolt-3262.html
I don't like the idea of reusing the stock bolts that have seen just over 100k miles of high heat.
So some question that I couldn't find answers to on here. Maybe my search fu is weak, but I didn't find them.
ARP bolts, are they really worth $100+ when I can get the stage 8 for ~$35?
How do the Stage 8 compare to OEM bolts?
Does anyone have specs on the Kooks bolts? How many bolts come in the listing on there website (link is below)?
General thoughts?
Thanks ahead of time.
http://marylandspeed.com/arp-stainle...01-p-5486.html
http://marylandspeed.com/stage-8-loc...00-p-1006.html
http://www.kooksheaders.com/exhaust-...bolt-3262.html
I went with ARP studs because I like the look of the stainless stud with a 12PT nut.
https://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/326
It is also nice to leave the studs in the head and just take off the nuts to get the header out, not worrying about the threads in the aluminum heads. It also makes hanging the headers by your self easier. I used Hi-Temp anti-seize on the threads going in to the heads and nothing on the nut threads, never had any issues with them coming loose.
Haven't read anything bad about the stage 8's either. I just chose the studs back in the day, and have reused them several times over the last 10 years I've had them.
https://camaroversion20.shutterfly.com/326
It is also nice to leave the studs in the head and just take off the nuts to get the header out, not worrying about the threads in the aluminum heads. It also makes hanging the headers by your self easier. I used Hi-Temp anti-seize on the threads going in to the heads and nothing on the nut threads, never had any issues with them coming loose.
Haven't read anything bad about the stage 8's either. I just chose the studs back in the day, and have reused them several times over the last 10 years I've had them.
I'd absolutely go with studs -- they make the install sooooo much easier, especially if installing alone.
With that said, it's not necessary to spend $100 on ARP -- I bought a set of stainless studs off eBay for $30-something. Alper Motorsports was the seller, IIRC.
With that said, it's not necessary to spend $100 on ARP -- I bought a set of stainless studs off eBay for $30-something. Alper Motorsports was the seller, IIRC.
The Kooks bolts are good bolts. That being said I stripped two of the bolt holes on my drivers side head with them. Everything was fine threading them in, but when I torqued them down they pulled the threads right out. I don't know if it had anything to do with the bolts or what, just sharing what happened. I will probably switch to studs when I put new heads on.
