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Starts then dies- where to start??

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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LETZRIDE
alright- even more information from tonight...I noticed, if I turn the car on and it dies and I leave the key in the run position- I can roll the windows down, use the radio, use the locks etc...however, if I flip the key all the way backwards to accessory when this happens, everything goes dead and the radio trips and needs to be reset by a depressing the reset when you finally do restart the car...

Does that help any?
My first thought was your ignition switch is worn out, but that wouldn't kill the radio. That power (memory +) comes straight off the battery. Sounds kinda like what the new(er) GM cars are being recalled for...
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 09:47 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
My first thought was your ignition switch is worn out, but that wouldn't kill the radio. That power (memory +) comes straight off the battery. Sounds kinda like what the new(er) GM cars are being recalled for...
What's the recall on the new GM cars? might give me another idea to explore?
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #23  
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i think the 2 might actually be unrelated. next time you get in the car try holding the gas pedal to start it. it may be an air problem. also have you considered the fact that the fuel pump may be losing pressure? If that first one doesnt work next time yoiu get into the car. turn the key to run wait 3-4 secs then turn it off and back on, wait 3 or so seconds and try to fire it.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 12:56 PM
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I've considered that it could be unrelated- but they seem to happen simaltaneously with one another- like I wont have electrical problems if Im not having starting problems. And they started at the same time...so I'm hoping they are related.

I havent considered the fuel pump being bad- my first guess would be IAC if it was an unrelated issue since that is how it is behaving.

I will add it to the list of things to check
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 10:42 PM
  #25  
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So I am still battling this issue with the car down in storage for the winter.

Uncovered a few more pretty interesting clues. For starters I got locked inside my Camaro for about 5 minutes, and slightly started panicking...just a little. Yes, you read that right I was literally locked in my car.

I was doing some filming of the flashing lights and what is happening and what works and what doesn't in the car (which I will post a little later) but as I was filming I decided that I would test the locks, they didn't work...then suddenly some power jumped back to the car and I hit the lock button- of course the doors locked (both were closed and windows up) then Boom, power goes back off...Ok, I go to unlock it manually with my finger, except I cant... it's like something was powering the lock mechanism to permanent "engage" mode or something...try as I might I couldn't get the bloody thing on either door to slide back open ... Never ever have I ever seen or heard of anything like that happening, and I am baffled actually...I farted with the key, got a juice of power back and the door unlocked... once I unlocked it, I had no issues sliding the locks back and forth by hand... I messed with it some more and got it to repeat this issue, except this time I had the door open so it was ok...any thoughts on that???

Secondly, I did some more digging, pulled the battery out, pulled hard on the positive battery terminal boot and a corroded mess of wires just crumbled and fell apart. So that is definitely one of, if not the entire issue (my thoughts)

So...what do I do to replace the wires? 1 black and 2 red are coming from the boot- I am assuming with a quick trace, 1 goes to the alternator (black) 1 to the fuse panel and one to the starter.... it was the black wire that goes to the alternator that was toast...so that has me a bit stumped to? because I should then still have power from the fully charged battery going to all the systems no?

In any event, what fittings and gauge wire do I need to replace all of this stuff?

Starts then dies- where to start??-img_2784.jpg
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 11:15 PM
  #26  
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Here is another video showing a little more of what is going on...along with me locking myself in the car briefly and slightly panicking hahah...actually I cut the panic part out lol.



- The first 10 seconds is showing what the car is doing when I pull the key out of the ignition
- 10 -20 seconds is showing how I have no power to any controls
- 30-50 seconds is some weird gauge sweeps that I can't explain
- 1:00-1:19 is when I manage to lock myself in the car- I couldn't pull the lock mechanism manually, it kept snapping back like the solenoid was permanently energized to lock
- 1:19-1:45 is more random flashing of the dash with the key pulled out
- 1:45 to end power is restored, but no start condition.
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Old Jan 6, 2015 | 10:29 AM
  #27  
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I'm no expert by any means but what you describe is what I had happen after re-installing my LS6 block - it was a ground wire sometimes shorting on the starter. When the car runs and then everything stops working (tach locks up too), is the main ground wire from the battery hot?
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 07:55 PM
  #28  
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So, I ran all brand new wires, 4gauge everything. 4gauge from the battery to the alt, starter, fuse box, chassis ground and engine block ground.

Had the BCM looked at professionally and they resoldered a few spots and said it looked great.

Got the car back on the road today, drove around a bit, got home...BOOM same thing, no start, gauge sweep, gauge lights faintly flashing when I pull the key from the ignition.

Loss of all power to all items- radio, lights, locks, windows, etc. Turn the key and it is like there is zero power in the car


I am so stumped it isn't funny. Ignition switch maybe?
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #29  
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Have you swapped the battery? Maybe it's broken internally. You could try jumping it from something else to see if the issue persists.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 02blksscmro
Have you swapped the battery? Maybe it's broken internally. You could try jumping it from something else to see if the issue persists.
battery was new as of last summer. I did have the jumpers on it early on when I was trying to diagnose this issue though, and that made no difference...
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