Kooks headers and true duals issues
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Kooks headers and true duals issues I recently installed the Kooks system for my 2000 Z28 A4.
I bought the required bmr driveshaft loop/cross member and the Panhard relocation kit.
The pipes are resting on the cross member and any slight bump it hits. I've made several adjustments to the whole system but cannot get this noise out. Tried calling kooks and let's just say the customer service wasn't up to par for a $2700 exhaust system. Anyone run into this?
I bought the required bmr driveshaft loop/cross member and the Panhard relocation kit.
The pipes are resting on the cross member and any slight bump it hits. I've made several adjustments to the whole system but cannot get this noise out. Tried calling kooks and let's just say the customer service wasn't up to par for a $2700 exhaust system. Anyone run into this?
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I have the same problem, stuck a 1/4 in piece of aluminum sheet between the safety loop and the body. Seems better now but clearance is still really close, for reference I have solid motor mounts and the Kooks LT and Kooks TD setup.
The BMR mount comes with shims. Use those. I got mine to clear... but you may need to buy longer bolts at the hardware store.
Tho I do have a vibration and I don't know if it is hitting that, my BMR trans crossmember, or my panhard bar. Everything is very tight under there.
Tho I do have a vibration and I don't know if it is hitting that, my BMR trans crossmember, or my panhard bar. Everything is very tight under there.
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I used all the shims for the BMR mount. My kit does not have the bracket on the passenger side pipe that hooks to the exhaust hanger on the tranny. I've noticed looking at other installs online that those kits do have that hanger. I wonder if this is part of it?
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I have thought of that. I use that rubber muffler patch stuff that gets sticky with heat and it's done nothing. I have thought about taking out the spacers on the bmr and then wrapping the pipes with header wrap.
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Took the spacers out of the bmr and put header wrap where it rests on the bmr and it cured the majority of the issue. I still have a slight hit after the passenger side cat before the bmr that I'll get to tomorrow
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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Glad I'm not the only one that had this issue, just like you I ended up "fixing" it by placing header wrap between the exhaust and DSL bracket. After having it like that for a year I have to say it didn't work out well for me...eventually the exhaust will wear a hole through the wrap as they rub against each other. I also think it transfers a lot of noise into the body.
One other thing is that I think the bracket pushing up on the exhaust brings it closer to the gas tank. I ended up melting my gas tank a little bit even though I still had all the factory heat shields in-place. It may be totally unrelated to the DSL but watch out for that regardless.
My plan is to go MWC DSL when I install my MWC Fab 9 next Spring. In my opinion the exhaust system needs an additional hanger before the pipes go over the axle....the factory hanger locations just don't provide enough support.
One other thing is that I think the bracket pushing up on the exhaust brings it closer to the gas tank. I ended up melting my gas tank a little bit even though I still had all the factory heat shields in-place. It may be totally unrelated to the DSL but watch out for that regardless.
My plan is to go MWC DSL when I install my MWC Fab 9 next Spring. In my opinion the exhaust system needs an additional hanger before the pipes go over the axle....the factory hanger locations just don't provide enough support.
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I agree. The true dual setup is heavier than the stock exhaust so I think it should at least use the hanger on the tranny. Today I also put heat tape on my gas tank all around where the pipes are. I've not had issues yet so I may wrap the pipes nearest to the gas tank with the rest of my header wrap.
As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
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I agree. The true dual setup is heavier than the stock exhaust so I think it should at least use the hanger on the tranny. Today I also put heat tape on my gas tank all around where the pipes are. I've not had issues yet so I may wrap the pipes nearest to the gas tank with the rest of my header wrap.
As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
As far as noise goes by doing the things I did today it took out a lot of interior rattle.
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Yes. That's what I'm talking about. Looking online it looks like some kits have it. I think the rest of my rattle (which is minimal) is probably due to not changing out the motor mounts.
I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.
I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
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I think changing the DSL and taking off the stock heat shields by the tank will eliminate the majority of my noise issues. Speed bumps and gravel driveways are terrible.... The scraping sound hurts my soul.
I have cats and no trouble using the stock tranny brace on the pass side. It does help pull it up a bit.
I also had to put a heat resistant hose used for turbo applications (cut it in half) on the passenger side firewall where it goes over the axle. I just used the screw locations to hold it in place where the heat shields were. I couldn't angle it far enough to not hit it. No issues with melting 2 years later and it touches it all the time.
Then I had to furr down the driver side PHB with a 3/4" block ( where the 3 bolts go into the floor) for extra clearance over the axle on the bottom as well. That combined with the MWC DSL and I don't have a single rattle anymore.
I also had to put a heat resistant hose used for turbo applications (cut it in half) on the passenger side firewall where it goes over the axle. I just used the screw locations to hold it in place where the heat shields were. I couldn't angle it far enough to not hit it. No issues with melting 2 years later and it touches it all the time.
Then I had to furr down the driver side PHB with a 3/4" block ( where the 3 bolts go into the floor) for extra clearance over the axle on the bottom as well. That combined with the MWC DSL and I don't have a single rattle anymore.
Hopefully we will be redesigning our loop to work in any situation here in the near future.
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
Yes. That's what I'm talking about. Looking online it looks like some kits have it. I think the rest of my rattle (which is minimal) is probably due to not changing out the motor mounts.
I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.
I did take some heard wrap and wrapped around the pipes going over the bmr Panhard relocation bar because the driver side had maybe a half inch clearance before touching. That helped as well. The more rattling I take out the less the interior vibration.