hey all,

Im doing a lsx swap in my nissan. I bought a long block, with no intake ect ect, so I have to find and shop for parts. (the $ can add up quick). Apparently some of these used parts do not come with the bolts. Besides ARP and dealership, where do you guys buy your bolts from? I looked at lowes and auto store but most of the bolts measurement are not precise.

Ebay bolts like alternator or starter is like $20 used! WTF
I just ordered bolts(studs) for the fuel rail to intake manifold from the dealership and it's like $8/stud....

Why are bolts so freaking expensive!!?

 

Why are engine bolts expensive?

Because they hold your engine together perhaps.

Go ARP fasteners. The extra money spent will be offset by the fact that you don't have to replace them if you have to rebuild the motor. Most OEM GM bolts are torque to yield and will only be used once.

 

For things like starter, alternator, and intake I don't see why you couldn't carefully measure the correct lengths and buy them at a hardware store or Lowes.

 

I buy all my hardware from ACE. Whatever bolt you are in need of do a quick search and more than likely you will find the size of said bolt, then head down to ace/Lowe's/home depot had the size to guy working and your set. I did this for most bolts I was missing on the engine I bought.

Now as far as head bolts, cam bolts and bolts of that nature I would go with ARP

 

Alternator and accessaries bolts are external engine items, not internal like pistons & cranks & stuff.

 

Finding the right bolts can be a pain in the behind. You'd think it would as easy as measuring and going to Ace. Unfortunately, a lot of those bolts are not readily available there.

Some of them can be found at www.mcmaster.com, or www.boltdepot.com. You might also try the local bone yard.

 

Awesome! Thanks. That's what I'm trying to said. I look arnd at lowes and hd and the bolts measurement are not accurate. They are cheap though.

 

The fasteners used on these engines are hard to duplicate in a store. The exact bolts GM used will be perfect every time.

Have a look here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post14902403

 

Bad news on the intake bolts, you're pretty much stuck with GM stuff.
There are specialty shops for things like the long accessory bolts, Mcmaster, etc. You wont find odd metric sizes at Lowes. But don't always expect the exact length as GM stuff.
Some are TTY (ie crank pulley), stick with GM stuff.
Some come with sealants (flywheel), stick with GM.

 

So far all my internal bolts are arp except for head bolts. I'm also using arp flywheel bolts. I just don't wanna spend to much money on arp bolts for starter, alt and water pump

 

When I needed intake manifold bolts I got them from McMaster-Carr they were about 5$ for a 10 pack, or I could have gotten the ARP for $50.

 

That's cheap!!

 

I found I still had the part number for the bolts I got for the LS1 intake I am using.
91280A368

 

Hardware and brakes. Why do so many people buy the cheapest pieces of sh*t and think they saved money?

 

Why do I need $50USD ARP bolts for a composite plastic intake manifold on a NA engine?

I do understand using good bolts for other areas as in the rods, cylinder heads, harmonic balancer, flywheel/flexplate, and pressure plate/torque converter.
However I see no reason to waste money on expensive bolts for things like the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and other similar things.

 

You don't. Intake manifolds can be held by simple allen socket head bolts and washers-like F.A.S.T. includes with their manifolds.

I'm a fan of serated flanged head bolts.

 

Nobody said anything about the "cheapest piece of sh*t". Maybe that's what you heard, but that's not what was said.

You can build a hot rod with nothing but a big check book. Just write a big check to ARP and get every fastener you might need. Or, you can use your head and spend money wisely. Just because you haven't figured it out yet doesn't mean others haven't, either.

You might find this book very educational, "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing Handbook", Carroll Smith, 1990.

I used the stock bolts, only because I had them. But I drilled them for safety wire. I could have purchased new bolts already drilled; but why?

 

How abt the coilpaks bolts? are they studs as well?

 

I'm very sorry I hurt your feelings!

 

Here is an area I wont cheap out on bolts suspension. I installed the coilover mounting brackes I got via UPS today, and replace the included grade 5 bolts with grade 8 bolts. If for no other reason then piece of mind that the bolts will be strong enough.


From what I understand the factory used studs, but I just used bolts. They were 6mm but I don't remember the tread pitch.