Just got the march pully ,,got couple Qs
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Just got the march pully ,,got couple Qs i just got the pully from thunder racing, it came with 2 bolt they are the same lenght, one of them was in a GM back and the another one was in the box with the pully with a LOCK WASHER,,
why is the lock washer
why is the lock washer
Last edited by silverTA; May 27, 2004 at 05:28 PM.
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Sounds like Thunder had a brain fart and included something you do not need. Direct from March my pulley came only with a GM bolt. That is all you need to use. I tried to put mine on tonight, and here is my input:
1) Get the longer bolt to install it. I will be looking for one tomorrow, because you will never get a stock bolt started.
2) Ignore the part about immediately using the new bolt. Torque the old one down, and then use the new one for the re-torque. I think I will be using loc-tite though.
3) Don't use the lock washer.
1) Get the longer bolt to install it. I will be looking for one tomorrow, because you will never get a stock bolt started.
2) Ignore the part about immediately using the new bolt. Torque the old one down, and then use the new one for the re-torque. I think I will be using loc-tite though.
3) Don't use the lock washer.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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i just installed the pully in my car its good looking pully but it was a F**k B**h to get on,
i couldn't tell if i gain any HP with it. i'll take the car to the track and see.
also my Volts go down when i turn my lights on or my factory radio
i couldn't tell if i gain any HP with it. i'll take the car to the track and see.
also my Volts go down when i turn my lights on or my factory radio
Mine came with a new gm bolt, but I ordered an ASP bolt too.
I used the slightly longer ASP bolt to run the pulley up. (It was longer without the supplied washer that is.)
Here's a trick that let me run the bolt in the first few turns without having to turn it hard and risk stripping any threads: While I held medium tension on the ratchet with one hand, I very lightly tapped around the pulley (toward the engine) with a plastic mallet. Every time I tapped the pulley, the bolt would turn a bit, just from the tension I was holding on it.
After the pulley was about halfway on, it was taking a whole lot of torque to run the bolt up. I took the bolt out, put the washer on (with a dab of arp lube), and then it turned a WHOLE lot easier. The bare ARP bolt was biting into the pulley surface.... Couldn't have used the washer for the initial start though, because not enough threads were in.
p.s. It was not a lock washer. (the arp one). The gm one did not have a washer at all.
I used the slightly longer ASP bolt to run the pulley up. (It was longer without the supplied washer that is.)
Here's a trick that let me run the bolt in the first few turns without having to turn it hard and risk stripping any threads: While I held medium tension on the ratchet with one hand, I very lightly tapped around the pulley (toward the engine) with a plastic mallet. Every time I tapped the pulley, the bolt would turn a bit, just from the tension I was holding on it.
After the pulley was about halfway on, it was taking a whole lot of torque to run the bolt up. I took the bolt out, put the washer on (with a dab of arp lube), and then it turned a WHOLE lot easier. The bare ARP bolt was biting into the pulley surface.... Couldn't have used the washer for the initial start though, because not enough threads were in.
p.s. It was not a lock washer. (the arp one). The gm one did not have a washer at all.
Last edited by John_D.; May 28, 2004 at 04:51 PM. Reason: added note about no lock washer
