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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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Default plug indexing

anyone do this and is it worth the extra work on a basically stock motor?
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by trey0153
anyone do this and is it worth the extra work on a basically stock motor?

I do. Many drag racers do, as well. You won't notice a SOTP difference, but, if working towards the best engine VE, it's something that can be done.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
I do. Many drag racers do, as well. You won't notice a SOTP difference, but, if working towards the best engine VE, it's something that can be done.
are you guys side gapping them to? I've kind of thought about this myself...

http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...degapping.html
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LETZRIDE
are you guys side gapping them to? I've kind of thought about this myself...
No, I drill 'em directly below the tip. This is similar to side gapping, but, allows the kernel to form directly through the ground strap (electrode arm) with very little to restrict its' size. I think there is now a plug manufacturer that sell plugs w/ ground straps pre-drilled. Although, they aren't our preferred plug brand.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
No, I drill 'em directly below the tip. This is similar to side gapping, but, allows the kernel to form directly through the ground strap (electrode arm) with very little to restrict its' size. I think there is now a plug manufacturer that sell plugs w/ ground straps pre-drilled. Although, they aren't our preferred plug brand.
Do you have a pic? I think I am pictureing what you are saying, but what not 100% sure...how small would that drillbit be? haha
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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LS1-450: For indexing NGK's what would be the process since they are a wedge type interference fit? They don't use washers like other brands. Are you just trying different plugs in different holes to see which ones end up facing down?

I like this side gapping idea. I have seen on an engine dyno where it gained 10hp. Does your drilling idea create enough surface are to do the same? I know the after market plugs that are doing this now are also widening out the ground strap so the hole in the center is the width of the electrode. It seems that on a stock strap there isn't enough width to get a very big drill bit in there. What size bit are you using.

Would you want to use a slightly hotter plug for this method as well. Say going from NGK TR6's to TR5's. The 5's being the stock heat range for the motor.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LETZRIDE
Do you have a pic? I think I am pictureing what you are saying, but what not 100% sure...how small would that drillbit be? haha

I don't have pics. It's a 1/16" bit. Just put plug in vise w/ ground strap up & drill through in-line w/ electrode.

Originally Posted by Pray
LS1-450: For indexing NGK's what would be the process since they are a wedge type interference fit? They don't use washers like other brands. Are you just trying different plugs in different holes to see which ones end up facing down?

Would you want to use a slightly hotter plug for this method as well. Say going from NGK TR6's to TR5's. The 5's being the stock heat range for the motor.
-Indexing washers are required. Can buy from Summit/Jegs.

-I don't. Would suggest using whatever plug that has been tested here as the best heat range for your set up. We use TR6's for our head/cam/intake/ram air set up. (Ignore the details in my signature. Guys come in here to scout the car. So, I don't display the actual details).
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
I don't have pics. It's a 1/16" bit. Just put plug in vise w/ ground strap up & drill through in-line w/ electrode.



-Indexing washers are required. Can buy from Summit/Jegs.

-I don't. Would suggest using whatever plug that has been tested here as the best heat range for your set up. We use TR6's for our head/cam/intake/ram air set up. (Ignore the details in my signature. Guys come in here to scout the car. So, I don't display the actual details).
Are you not concerned with the strap breaking off with heat / if you get premature detonation?
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 10:42 AM
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I posted this in the Advanced Tech section and was wondering your take on it.

I almost exclusively use TR6's gapped at .040" now on all the cars I do. I go one heat range colder due to DCR and timing. I am finding many stock LS2 and 3 combos detonate with stock timing tables. Going to 6's usually takes care of it and I can run a little more timing. I have been doing it with cam only cars as well. It seems to me that I may be better off running the hotter 55's at say .050"-.055" gap. If I am looking at this from a DCR or cylinder pressure angle. It seems that going with a later IVO will need a hotter plug and less fuel to make the same tq with the loss of DCR. I also remember way back in the distributor and digital ignition days running the most powerful MSD I could find and running spark gaps up to .060". I am sure the individual coils we have now put out a ton more voltage. In the end I am looking to find what is going to make the most tq and efficient burn in most driving conditions. More max power would be nice as well. Has anyone experimented with this on the dyno? The track is cool but hardly scientific.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LETZRIDE
Are you not concerned with the strap breaking off with heat / if you get premature detonation?
Nope. Have done it for years without issue.

Originally Posted by Pray
I posted this in the Advanced Tech section and was wondering your take on it.

I almost exclusively use TR6's gapped at .040" now on all the cars I do. I go one heat range colder due to DCR and timing. I am finding many stock LS2 and 3 combos detonate with stock timing tables. Going to 6's usually takes care of it and I can run a little more timing. I have been doing it with cam only cars as well. It seems to me that I may be better off running the hotter 55's at say .050"-.055" gap. If I am looking at this from a DCR or cylinder pressure angle. It seems that going with a later IVO will need a hotter plug and less fuel to make the same tq with the loss of DCR. I also remember way back in the distributor and digital ignition days running the most powerful MSD I could find and running spark gaps up to .060". I am sure the individual coils we have now put out a ton more voltage. In the end I am looking to find what is going to make the most tq and efficient burn in most driving conditions. More max power would be nice as well. Has anyone experimented with this on the dyno? The track is cool but hardly scientific.

When we had EFI Live, we could log everything & set tables accordingly. What you are asking is routinely part of any dyno tune. Don't know if those specific conditions have been tested, but the tune is set up to the max allowable hp/tq without pre-detonation. The PCM has far more tunable variables than an MSD ignition. Really have to see the software to know how many different variables are programmable.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
Nope. Have done it for years without issue.




When we had EFI Live, we could log everything & set tables accordingly. What you are asking is routinely part of any dyno tune. Don't know if those specific conditions have been tested, but the tune is set up to the max allowable hp/tq without pre-detonation. The PCM has far more tunable variables than an MSD ignition. Really have to see the software to know how many different variables are programmable.
I use EFI Live for all of my tuning so I am familiar with it. I will see what the different plugs do for my LTFT's and STFT's. I just built a stand alone WB02 system to transfer between cars so I can test that also. The only issue is quantifying the results that plugs will give. Even time to distance or RPM sweep isn't all that accurate. The most I am expecting to see is 5rw-10rw. Just wondering if you had tested any of this on the dyno.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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I guess I could also use MAF gm/s and Injector Duty Cycle to tell what is going on.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LETZRIDE
are you guys side gapping them to? I've kind of thought about this myself...


Maybe the next thing to try is to side gap the ground strap & then fork it. This would have a similar effect as the drilled hole w/ the side benefit of not having to perfectly drill a hole on center.

By fork it I mean "like a forked tongue," split the end of the ground strap to around 1/32" deep or so.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
Maybe the next thing to try is to side gap the ground strap & then fork it. This would have a similar effect as the drilled hole w/ the side benefit of not having to perfectly drill a hole on center.

By fork it I mean "like a forked tongue," split the end of the ground strap to around 1/32" deep or so.
What about half gapping it and doing the fork? Then the deepest part of the fork would be at the side of the electrode. I am wondering if that would allow the most spark to fire off the entire electrode and still send the spark out to the cylinder. It seems that surface area is what we are going for. Just wondering how you would get into the side of the strap without hitting the electrode.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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Dremmel cutting wheel.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
Dremmel cutting wheel.
I guess you could bend the strap up and cut it that way then bend it back down. I don't think a stock gap is going to allow the wheel to cut evenly through the strap with out hitting the electrode.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Pray
I guess you could bend the strap up and cut it that way then bend it back down. I don't think a stock gap is going to allow the wheel to cut evenly through the strap with out hitting the electrode.
Yah, the point was to find a way to get done. Any way that works.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
Yah, the point was to find a way to get done. Any way that works.
Thanks for hitting us with some "old school" racer tech. I am going to work on this when I get home and let you all know how it went. I will use the above listed data tables to post results with.

I am looking at Summit. Which indexing washers do you use. I am assuming the tapered 14mm brass ones but from which company?

Last edited by Pray; Dec 30, 2014 at 10:03 AM.
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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These washers work well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-71900/overview/
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LFSADRG
Sweet. These are the ones I ordered.
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