JohnDeereAndChev

I'm needing some help on an engine Swap in a 2002 Silverado Truck. I've tried on the truck forums, GM Performance, the dealer, the parts house, no one can tell me yes or no, or better yet give me specific information.

I'll keep it short and simple. I'm not looking for Performance, just plain old reliability. I don't know or trust any engine builders here. I read to much bad on Remans, and the only way I'll sleep at night is a GM Engine.

GM has an engine that fits my budget (New) Part #: 12457705. This engine was the 5.3l in the 1999 Trucks. After all the homework I've did, this engine made a bit less power than my 2002, I believe possibly due to a Cam and PCM change. I believe the 1999's are dbc (drive by cable) which mine is also drive by cable.

Can anyone verify that this engine will for sure fit?

The reason I ask is GM wants $4k for my engine + a $2,000.00 core that I don't have the money to pay for up front. It's cool my 2002 has a bit more power, but I don't see paying that kind of extra cash when I can't afford it for a few extra ponies on a truck that won't be raced. I just need something reliable.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Welcome to LS1tech!

You should not have any issues using this engine.

It's difference is probabally the camshaft, but I doubt it's by much.

You should do the LS6 PCV/valley cover upgrade.

JohnDeereAndChev

Paul Bell, thank you very much for giving me an answer! That's good to hear. I haven't read anything about the LS6 PCV / Valley Cover Upgrade. I have not also searched yet, so I'll try that first before asking. If not, I'll come back for more information on it.

Thank you very much for your time and help! It's greatly appreciated!

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

A couple things to check on. Some of the 99-00 5.3 and 6.0s have iron heads and a longer crank on the flywheel end. Iron heads are no big deal, but you might have issues depending on the trans you use.

gagliano7

I think that is just the 6.0's with the iron heads and longer crank. You could definitely get a 5.3 rebuilt cheaper but that engine will work.

JohnDeereAndChev

I hear you. I don't know any rebuilders where I live and I don't have any that I would trust here. Not to mention it's a work truck, I'd rather just have something drop and go and be reliable. I also looked into reman's, but it seems the failure rate is much, much higher than the GM Crate engines anywhere I look into.

As far as the iron heads, it seems like I read those were only on like the 99-00 6.0's. Hence the reason you can't swap the early 6.0's to mate up to the 4l60e. If I' m not mistaking all the 5.3 heads were aluminum. Either way, I just looked up this engine, and it list as Aluminum heads, so it sounds like it will fit unless there's anything else.

Thank both of you for your time and help also, it is greatly appreciated! I'm glad I found a good forum with some knowledgeable people, it seemed like GM didn't want to tell me anything. It almost seemed as if they wanted me to spend the 5k on the 2002 engine.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've only ever seen 6.0s with the long crank, but read in an article about manual trans hooking up that it could be with 6.0s or 5.3s.
Honestly, I've had great luck with used motors and their price is about 1/10th the crate motors. But if this is a DD that has to run the next day, I understand the need for a crate.
But on the flip side, putting $4-5k in a 13 year old truck may not be the best route either. You could buy a running spare car and used 5.3 with warrantee for that amount.

N20zuki

I would spend the money on a junkyard pullout with a warranty for less then 1000$

JohnDeereAndChev

Not that I have anything wrong with Junkyard engines, I just oppose it lightly for the following reason.

The Junkyards around me carry many 5.3 / 6.0's. However, every single one is pulled. I can't hear it run. Check for leaks. Etc. Chances are I would get one, it runs fine, it's not pouring out oil, great. They claim it has 100k miles, but in reality it might have 250k and have another 30,000 miles in it. Sure you only paid $1k for it. Sure you can take it back under warranty. But I run a business, work 6-7 days a week, daylight to dark, March through November. I don't have time to swap engines in and out. And worse of all, if it doesn't last, chances are 9 in 12, it will catch me in the middle of the season. If it catches me in the middle of season I'm out of commission, I'm out of work, and worse of all I may lose a handful of customers which is never a good thing.

As far as just getting a new truck. I don't want a new truck for many reasons. One, I absolutely cannot stand the new trucks. I'm against everything they are dong to the new trucks. Electronics, AFM, MDS, Eco Boost. I hate it all. Offer me a new truck, I'll sell it and get an old beater tomorrow. Next, I don't spend money I don't have. Meaning, I don't use credit what so ever, I don't finance anything, I don't take loans. If I want something I pay cash for everything. I'm smart with my money and I keep my business expenses low as possible.

After adding it all up, $2,800. is a lot of money. But with a crate engine, and knowing how it's taken care of from day one, will be peace at mind at the least. I would more than likely get another 200,000 miles out of it unless something catastrophic happens.

As for the truck? I plan on keeping this truck on the road until 500,000 at bare minimum. It has 300k on the clock now and is still daily driven. In 300,000 miles it's let me down only ONCE, with a transmission. It has NEVER failed to start. Been taken care of. Body looks new. No rips in the leather. Heck, I change parts for "maintenance" that most people consider repairs. It has brand new tires all around, brand new AC Delco brakes, rebuild transmission, 4 brand new Bilstein shocks all the way around, new moog pitman arm / idler arms, new pulleys ac/serpentine belt, new moog inner / outer tie rods, new moog wheel hubs, new ball joints upper and lower, new everything. This truck has been taken care of and I want to make the best choice for it.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Probably wont change your mind, but I've bought engines on ebay, that I never even heard run.
These 5.3s are so plentiful with realistic prices of around $500 with what you're looking for. Most yards with warrantees and good reputations would just ship another if there was an issue.

JohnDeereAndChev

Thank you for your words! I'm not hard headed and I'm not completely against a used engine. The only issue is if I find a used engine, I will most certainly have to find one with less than 100k. I will keep an eye out on Car-Part and LKQ being that I'm not in a hurry, my 5.3 is still kicking. I just don't know when this thing will die. For all I know it could go 400k-500k, but it would be nice to go ahead and have an engine sitting in the garage. Since I'm not in a hurry, maybe that'll enable be to seek out for a "good" used engine.

That brings me to another question? What year 5.3's should I be on the look out for. It seems with the 5.3's most 99-06 should work. But that brings the question of dbc or dbw. This truck is drive by cable. Will I need to find a drive by cable or will a drive by wire work and just switch over the accessories? The reason I ask, it's getting more and more difficult to find 02 engines with less than 100k. While it's still possible for 05's-06's. Better yet I can even find a Vin Code B with low miles.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You're only going to need the long block, so any 24x reluctor motor will work (up to 07). Just transfer over your intake, injectors, TB, etc.
Just avoid ones with VVT and DOD.

gagliano7

Thompson motorsports is a sponsor here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactur...-/271034081966

Everyone that has dealt with them say they stand behind there product. All your parts will transfer over from your motor.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I 2nd Thompson Motorsports. Kyle has been nothing but helpful on helping me select parts for my build and his prices cant be beat IMO.