2 quick questions: Damper and Clutch LS1
2 quick questions: Damper and Clutch LS1 Just finishing up a LS swap into a BMW. Normally we like to do stock builds, but with this car we went with a bit more power 
. As such, I wanted to do a upgraded damper and a nice clutch.
1) How do I figure out exactly what ATI damper I need to run? It is a stock ls1 using all 02 Camaro accessories (A/C, PS, etc). I am looking for the ATi p/n and it appears there are so many different choices.
2) Upgraded clutch is necessary. I have done my research on which brand I want to go with and Steve from Monster clutch has earned my business. So far it has been great to work with him and trying to place my order this week. I have narrowed it down to two setups and would like some real-world feedback from some members who actually have first-hand experience with these setups (please don't post "I heard on the internet" examples as they will be virtually unhelpful to me).
Setup a) Monster Clutch Co. Level 3 12" Premium Fbody Package w/Lightweight Billet Steel Flywheel come with slave (single disc)
Setup b) Monster Clutch Co. LT1-S Twin Disc Basic FBody Package w/Lightweight Flywheel with Monster Clutch Co. Fbody Slave Cylinder (twin disc)
I am leaning towards the twin disc setup at Steve's recommendation. I have a friend that has an OS giken twin disc in his 350Z and its not really friendly to drive on the street. Given that the twin disc setup is significantly more money, I figured I would get some opinions before I made a purchase.
I am looking for a reliable clutch that feels similar to stock. Drives friendly on the street, but can handle the power from a full bolt on LS1 with lets say a 100-150 shot. Thank you for your help! Looking to purchase this week.
-jon
. As such, I wanted to do a upgraded damper and a nice clutch.1) How do I figure out exactly what ATI damper I need to run? It is a stock ls1 using all 02 Camaro accessories (A/C, PS, etc). I am looking for the ATi p/n and it appears there are so many different choices.
2) Upgraded clutch is necessary. I have done my research on which brand I want to go with and Steve from Monster clutch has earned my business. So far it has been great to work with him and trying to place my order this week. I have narrowed it down to two setups and would like some real-world feedback from some members who actually have first-hand experience with these setups (please don't post "I heard on the internet" examples as they will be virtually unhelpful to me).
Setup a) Monster Clutch Co. Level 3 12" Premium Fbody Package w/Lightweight Billet Steel Flywheel come with slave (single disc)
Setup b) Monster Clutch Co. LT1-S Twin Disc Basic FBody Package w/Lightweight Flywheel with Monster Clutch Co. Fbody Slave Cylinder (twin disc)
I am leaning towards the twin disc setup at Steve's recommendation. I have a friend that has an OS giken twin disc in his 350Z and its not really friendly to drive on the street. Given that the twin disc setup is significantly more money, I figured I would get some opinions before I made a purchase.
I am looking for a reliable clutch that feels similar to stock. Drives friendly on the street, but can handle the power from a full bolt on LS1 with lets say a 100-150 shot. Thank you for your help! Looking to purchase this week.
-jon
The ati damper you need assuming you want the underdrive version is 917276 and if you're running ac you will also need the ac kit 916732. whoever you order from can also help but those are the numbers for an fbody setup.
the monster twin i dont have experience with however i drive the stage 3 in my buddies car on occasion. its not terrible if you know how to drive it but try to slip it like a normal clutch and it will certainly let you know it doesnt like to be slipped. constant city driving will make it chatter then you go beat on it and it will be fine for a bit. personally if steve says the twin will drove stock i'd go for that.
the monster twin i dont have experience with however i drive the stage 3 in my buddies car on occasion. its not terrible if you know how to drive it but try to slip it like a normal clutch and it will certainly let you know it doesnt like to be slipped. constant city driving will make it chatter then you go beat on it and it will be fine for a bit. personally if steve says the twin will drove stock i'd go for that.
The ati damper you need assuming you want the underdrive version is 917276 and if you're running ac you will also need the ac kit 916732. whoever you order from can also help but those are the numbers for an fbody setup.
the monster twin i dont have experience with however i drive the stage 3 in my buddies car on occasion. its not terrible if you know how to drive it but try to slip it like a normal clutch and it will certainly let you know it doesnt like to be slipped. constant city driving will make it chatter then you go beat on it and it will be fine for a bit. personally if steve says the twin will drove stock i'd go for that.
the monster twin i dont have experience with however i drive the stage 3 in my buddies car on occasion. its not terrible if you know how to drive it but try to slip it like a normal clutch and it will certainly let you know it doesnt like to be slipped. constant city driving will make it chatter then you go beat on it and it will be fine for a bit. personally if steve says the twin will drove stock i'd go for that.
Are there significant gains to be had by going with the underdrive version?
Edit:
Just found this page.
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/f-body.html
any opinions on going with the 10% underdrive (917276) vs the 25% underdrive kit (918845)?
Last edited by m3j0n; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:12 AM.
Ati will recommend to go with the 10% as it has good dampening for the motor. The 25% will lose a lot of the dampening on a stock longblock they will both make the same hp as the 10% will dampen better but the 25% will put less drag on it. So Ya get the 10% for a street motor.
Ati will recommend to go with the 10% as it has good dampening for the motor. The 25% will lose a lot of the dampening on a stock longblock they will both make the same hp as the 10% will dampen better but the 25% will put less drag on it. So Ya get the 10% for a street motor.
from the BTR site, it looks like the ATi p/n 917276 comes with the a/c stuff. Am I mistaken?
and why do I need the a/c pulley, exactly? It looks like the offer the ATi pulley without the A/c pulley (p/n: 917279)
