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Which crank bolt?

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Old May 7, 2015 | 09:40 AM
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Default Which crank bolt?

Looking to install an ATI damper: just curious what bolt to use? OEM or ARP?


While searching, I found a few horror stories of the ARP snapping off... So I'm sure the OEM TTY bolt could as well (but I'm guessing it's much easier to drill out...)
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Old May 7, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wayland1985
Looking to install an ATI damper: just curious what bolt to use? OEM or ARP?


While searching, I found a few horror stories of the ARP snapping off... So I'm sure the OEM TTY bolt could as well (but I'm guessing it's much easier to drill out...)
Hello, if it is a street car run the O.E. fastener, the softer springy bolt will be less likely to back off.(unless the engine is detonating like crazy)
If it is a race car or weekend warrior you going to be checking the damper bolt regularly go with the ARP.
Most of the horror stories root from people not cleaning up the threads, using the wrong lube or not torquing the fastener properly.
Give us a ring we have both in stock ready to ship.

Last edited by LivernoisMotorsports; May 7, 2015 at 10:05 AM.
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Old May 7, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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Well, that makes it plain and simple. OEM it is. Thanks.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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The ARP is not going to to back off when installed and torqued correctly. The install stories you hear of are folks not using the proper methods of installing or removing the bolt. Get the hawks install tool.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
The ARP is not going to to back off when installed and torqued correctly. The install stories you hear of are folks not using the proper methods of installing or removing the bolt. Get the hawks install tool.
I have the Hawks tool. There were a couple of threads out there where half of the ARP crank bolt snapped off in the crank, which scared me.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 12:02 PM
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Again that is because they fubar'd the threads when taking the balancer off more then likely. TTY bolts stretch so they can change the thread pitch or whatever you call it. This can cause a ARP bolt to thread in "hard" per say. I had this issue when installing ARP head bolts. So I used a chase to clean the threads and copious amounts of ARP lube and the bolts went right in. You will not break the ARP bolt if it is properly lubed, and the crank threads are undamaged. Also another thing I have seen is folks buy the wrong ARP bolt(LS7) and it is longer, which will bottom out and cause problems.

Trust me when I say you can not believe everything you read on the internet. I just went from stock bolts to arp for the headers, heads, and crank...I will never go back to TTY bolts. Use stock bolts if you are on a budget, Use ARP if the budget allows...it is really that simple.
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