JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

My 6-year old alternator appears to finally have bit the dust. Coming home I notice the ABS INOP and Brake indicators are lit up. I check the e-brake and it's all the way down. I figure may have blew a fuse.

I keep driving, and then the AIR BAG light starts flashing, then stays on solid. I now notice that the Brake indicator is now barely visible, and that my car is idling at 1500RPM - and the battery voltage is critically low. It seems to be hesitating a bit accelerating so I pulled off into a parking lot.

With the help of some friends, I stopped by Discount Auto, AutoZone, and Pep Boys. Nobody had one in stock but could get one here by Tue/Wed So I picked up the cheapest battery and made my way home.

Is this definitely the alternator, or could it be wiring? How can I check it with a mutimeter? I believe the GM alternator will be remanufactured and is only warranted for one year (their electrical parts warranty). Should I just buy the one with the longest warranty?

How long do you think I can go before charging the battery? I was planning on taking the Optima red-top to AutoZone for their free recharge (I'm told) and keep it in the trunk until I get the replacement alternator.

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

You could take the alternator in and have it tested...most decent auto shops will test it for free. If I had to get a new alternator, I'd just get an AC Delco one...lots of guys I know have had good luck with the newer style remans from there.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Where do you buy an AC/Delco unit? I called the delaership and my cost on a reman unit was $230. AutoZone has a Duralast for $119, and a Duralast Gold for $199. The former being reman, and the latter being new. GM has a 12/12K warranty, the Duralasts are lifetime.

Just out of curioisty, would a bad alternator cause hiccups in the ABS even without the indicator being on? The brakes seemed to be working yesterday on the autocross, but the ABS would never kick in.

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

I have a local smaller shop that sells all kinds of ACDelco parts. Shoot, if the Duralast is lifetime and looks like its in a stock shell, I'm sure its ok. I checked with my local place ane they wanted $125 for a reman AC unit. Low voltage will cause all kinds of weird things to happen. I noticed it with a buddies car when his ASP pulley started to come off and we didnt notice it LOL. It could be a short though with the way you said the lights were dimming...and it could be possible with the engine swap that was recently done. I'll work on mechanical problems all day, but I hate electrical.

AsianIce25

iTrader: (2)

I just spent $200 + tax on a remanufactured 130D for my 2001 Z. It was rewound and made with all high current crap. It put out over 200 amps, and im going to need it for my new stereo. It should be sweet. Most 200 amp models cost at least 269. The place is called pro-tech supply in clawson mich. they could make you a normal 105 amp model for cheap id imagine.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I have stock electronics and don't plan to change them. If there was something in stock locally which was an upgrade, I'd consider it. All I'm finding right now is stock amperage reman or a stock amperage new Duralast Gold. I found a reman unit through Central Auto for $130, plus $60 core, with a lifetime warranty. That's what I'm leaning towards now.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Well, good news. Turns out the wire on the bottom of the alternator had come loose from the crimp. A friend re-crimped it at his shop and it was good to go! If anyone is curious, I was lucky to make it 15 city miles on a fully charged battery with stock electronics if the alternator is dead. I've charged my new battery twice since I purchased it late yesterday afternoon. Just need to put the Optima back in and my battery brace.