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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Default Air filter

Not sure if I am in the right spot but here it is, uoa came back with high silicon I'm using the amsoil non oiled now for 2 yrs only have about 3000 miles on it slp lid everything seems sealed with other filters uoa came back clean on silicon any suggestions for a non oiled type filter.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 03:35 PM
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I was just researching the site about filters. My search revealed that AC Delco, Wix, Napa Gold and Purolator are the paper air filters of choice. Mentioning Fram is a good way to awaken the Fram haters which will bring forth 1 out of 200 folks that will say that Fram gets a bad wrap.

BTW. Am I too new to say that?
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rybern
I was just researching the site about filters. My search revealed that AC Delco, Wix, Napa Gold and Purolator are the paper air filters of choice. Mentioning Fram is a good way to awaken the Fram haters which will bring forth 1 out of 200 folks that will say that Fram gets a bad wrap.

BTW. Am I too new to say that?
I'd say frams air filters are acceptable. Their oil filters however are absolute garbage in a tin can.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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If your having issues with oil type filters just go get a fram or whatever at the autostore. Fram air filters are fine. Its the oil filters I stay away from.
I'v ran k@n on all 3 ls1 cars iv owned. Never a problem. I run one with a SSRA, no issues. I always under oil them because when you first put oil on, it doesn't look like enough but you just let it sit and the oil soaks all through the media. I think most issues are from guys over oiling. All I can say is iv had no issues.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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I've always just used the cheap old ac delco ones no problem.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by senicalj4579
If your having issues with oil type filters just go get a fram or whatever at the autostore. Fram air filters are fine. Its the oil filters I stay away from.
I'v ran k@n on all 3 ls1 cars iv owned. Never a problem. I run one with a SSRA, no issues. I always under oil them because when you first put oil on, it doesn't look like enough but you just let it sit and the oil soaks all through the media. I think most issues are from guys over oiling. All I can say is iv had no issues.
Same here, I've had the same k&n filter in 2 different f bodies so far. One with the free RAM air, and current one has the free RAM air with the slp RAM air metal thing under the airbox. SLP lids on both, never had a problem.

I always oil the bottom part more than the top. Usually a light mist on the top, it all eventually soaks in from the bottom anyway.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 05:25 AM
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Use an OEM paper style air filter for the cleanest air. It might rob a couple HP but in the end it protects the engine better than the alternative style of filters.

You can always swap to a "high performance" filter for the one time you run the car on the dyno or track, then back to the OEM element for daily driving.

Also, if you have a monster of an engine (say you had 800rwhp) and still wanted to use an OEM style filter for best air cleaning, you can make a custom box to hold a couple of them.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SlasherVRGR
Same here, I've had the same k&n filter in 2 different f bodies so far. One with the free RAM air, and current one has the free RAM air with the slp RAM air metal thing under the airbox. SLP lids on both, never had a problem.

I always oil the bottom part more than the top. Usually a light mist on the top, it all eventually soaks in from the bottom anyway.

Exactly. As a matter of fact I do not even oil the top of the filter. I oil the bottom very lightly. Then when I let it dry, I place the filter on its top side. This way, the oil will soak down lightly to the top. Works perfect
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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I read a thread on here a while back regarding paper filter rankings. All the details are out there on a search, but I decided to try a wix based on the discussion. When compared with the purolator that was in the car, it had significantly more pleats. Ideally, that means less pressure drop across the filter, which translates to less air intake restriction. I haven't dyno tested back to back, but I agree with the idea of more pleats while maintaining an un-oiled filter.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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I use a WIX filter because they appear to have the thickest foam sealing lip on them. This way when the lid clamps down tight without leaving a small air gap like some of the other brands out there. Also has a lot of pleats so it filters better then some cheaper options but its still just under $20 anyway.
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by themealonwheels
I read a thread on here a while back regarding paper filter rankings. All the details are out there on a search, but I decided to try a wix based on the discussion. When compared with the purolator that was in the car, it had significantly more pleats. Ideally, that means less pressure drop across the filter, which translates to less air intake restriction. I haven't dyno tested back to back, but I agree with the idea of more pleats while maintaining an un-oiled filter.
You dont need to dyno test it, simply install a pressure gauge that reads 0-28" of Water, or around that, and measure it.
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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I use a simple paper filter from the local Car Quest. I want to say its a Wix filter since all filters that are CQ brand are made by Wix.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SlasherVRGR
I'd say frams air filters are acceptable. Their oil filters however are absolute garbage in a tin can.
Agreed BUT Fram's Ultra oil filter is pretty high end. I'd use it.

Originally Posted by themealonwheels
I read a thread on here a while back regarding paper filter rankings. All the details are out there on a search, but I decided to try a wix based on the discussion. When compared with the purolator that was in the car, it had significantly more pleats. Ideally, that means less pressure drop across the filter, which translates to less air intake restriction. I haven't dyno tested back to back, but I agree with the idea of more pleats while maintaining an un-oiled filter.
Yes, more pleats equals a larger filtering area which equals more airflow.

Originally Posted by McGinnis
I use a WIX filter because they appear to have the thickest foam sealing lip on them. This way when the lid clamps down tight without leaving a small air gap like some of the other brands out there. Also has a lot of pleats so it filters better then some cheaper options but its still just under $20 anyway.
Pleats pleats pleats!

Originally Posted by mjs1012
I use a simple paper filter from the local Car Quest. I want to say its a Wix filter since all filters that are CQ brand are made by Wix.
There's been a change, Wix is no longer making filters for CarQuest.

Here's a Fram (which is identical to just about all air filters) and a Wix:



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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 08:23 AM
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Had my car on the dyno yesterday for a tuning session. After a few runs decided to pull out the Fram paper filler and make a run with a filter. The car picked up 6 rwhp without the filter.
Attached Thumbnails Air filter-dyno-run-2016-4-1_resized.jpg  
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by bbond105
Had my car on the dyno yesterday for a tuning session. After a few runs decided to pull out the Fram paper filler and make a run with a filter. The car picked up 6 rwhp without the filter.
How old and dirt was the filter?
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 10:43 AM
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New filter.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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Nice! Thanks for posting that.
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
There's been a change, Wix is no longer making filters for CarQuest.
How long how this been? I know they changed their house brand oil last year, but wasn't aware of the filter change.
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 08:09 PM
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The paper filters arn't about power, its about keeping a clean engine.
You run the paper to keep it alive, it makes a big difference in the long term. You should expect to lose something using them, unless you fab a large box to contain multiples.


When it is time to make power, slap on a K&N or similar, make your passes, then swap back to the paper element for the other 199,998 miles.
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