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Well, saving 20# on the front is good for acceleration, stopping, cornering; and I've lost FTD at autocross by 0.003 seconds before, so maybe saving 20# means I could have won. I'm more race-focussed, and hiding things means its harder for me to access/fix. Just pointing out one could save weight, and still have room to "clean up" things. But hey, to each his own. I appreciate a clean build too.
I dropped over 50lbs from the front of my car (lightweight battery, MWC tubular bumper support...etc), and believe me when I say you can definitely tell the difference at the track (AutoX). Remember all this weight was way out front past the front wheels.
Nothing wrong with the build, looks clean. Just if weight reduction/weight transfer is your goal there are other options out there.
If your using a Braile 3121 in the trunk with the exterior cutoff switch to be NHRA legal, does it need to be in a sealed and vented box like a Taylor 48101 or can it be placed into something like an AFCO Battery Box part# AFC-50302?
The Braile 3121 is gel battery but it still produces gasses and therefore it needs to be in a sealed box and vented to the outside since the 4th gen's have an open trunk and no rear firewall. Also the box needs mounted to the frame rail with 3/8" or larger?
Last edited by 5.7stroker; Jan 12, 2018 at 01:54 AM.
Off-subject but, where did you find the grommet for hiding the wires under the fender well?
Use a 1 3/4" hole saw and get "Oil Filler Tube Grommet" part number 42301 from O-reilly's like I did when I did the "I-wire" mod. You can use these to cover up the holes, all purchased on ebay:
-Dorman 45470
-12 Locking Rigid Plastic Hole Plugs - To Fit 3/16" Opening - Black Nylon
Lightweight batteries are the way to go. My Shorai comes in at a hefty 5lbs
Starts up no problem.
I went WPS but same deal. Around 4 lbs. but when it's cold and fluid are thick, it needs a bit more so I now run two 480 amp lithium batteries. Total 7-8 lbs but it starts great even when it's cold and fluids are thick.
Used #4 gauge wire and grounding clamps to tie it in
I was thinking of mounting mine in the driver side frame rail in the trunk. My nitrous bottle is in the right corner of the trunk. Pricing this out using a lightweight battery with good CCA is about $500, less if you make your own box to be NHRA compliant.
JEGS Performance Products 10341K - switch $48
Taylor 48200 box 11.25" x 9.5" x 8.75" $95
Braile 3121 6.6 x 5.2 x 6.8 $230
100 Amp Circuit Breaker $18
Uxcell 4.7" x 4.7" x 2.3 junction box $10
0/1 and 2 awg ring terminals $20
ANL fuse holder and fuse $10
Probably cut the box down in size or have one custom made. If I follow this diagram below, I would think 20ft of 2awg ($40) and 15ft of 1/0 ($40) would be plenty enough of wire.
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You can use these to cover up the holes, all purchased on ebay:
