/\ above LaBLKv6Z has made 450 hp with the LS2D , and the flow test looks good on it too. So far no back to back dyno #s

 

That was on a canned tune. I gained more power with a street/dyno tune. Currently makes 480 whp now.

 

Damn you been holding out on us , 480 that's fricking great ...... so you picked up another 30 hp over the mail order tune ! So guess its safe to say , that intake is not holding you back !

 

Best way to tell that is MAP readings from dyno runs.

 

It's in my sig, I'll eventually make a build thread and post up trap times from this Friday night coming.

 

I, for one, would be very interested in checking out your build thread.

 

Please post those track times!

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...-ss-build.html

There’s my build thread guys, finally made one.

 

I just had the Dorman LS2 intake installed on my TA. My mechanic put steel sleeves in the larger front and rear mounting holes. He tapped the fuel rail holes for M6 bolts as the self tappers seem less than ideal, especially if the fuel rail is ever removed. He also used double washers to keep the mounting bolts from mushrooming the holes under torque.

 

If we already have new style ls6 valley cover with built in pcv then we don't need to change to low profile bolts do we?

 

I'm pretty sure you need low profile bolts as the DLS2 bottom sits lower than the LS6 intake.

 

the intake comes with the low profile valley cover bolts. Definitely use them.

 

Did you take the bolts up one by one and replace them or is it required to take the whole valley cover up to change them?

 

i just took them all out then put all the new ones in and tightened according to the recommended sequence (basically inside to out switching sides IIRC).

 

Oh ok thanks. I'll try tackle it this weekend

 

What bolts did you guys use to hold the intake down, your factory ones? If so what size are they? Had to switch out the truck manifold on my 5.3 for this intake and not sure of the size. Thanks

 

I've seen pics of people who used stock LS1 bolts. I'd suggest wider washers under the bolt.

 

Thank you!!
DEFINITELY helped me on my stock LS1 intake & throttle body swap to Dorman LS2/WARR 92mm throttle body that I did yesterday afternoon.

Took me 2.5 hours, from start to finish.
Thinking "maybe" the throttle body and/or the intake might have been revised?
~ I had to do the "ball pein" mod, and flatten the steam tubing under the intake.
~ Drill the cable accelerator cable hole out on the TB
~ Drill & Tap back corner of intake for the HVAC nipple
I did not have to grind or clearance anything

Only issue I have is that I am running speed density, and the silicone tube from TB to SLP lid is a tad too long, so is very slightly kinked.
I "think" it'll be fine once trimmed, but I have to be real careful doing that since I have a nitrous nozzle right there in between the two.
I have a brand new 85mm truck MAF, bellows, and sleeve to connect it to the lid, that I wanted to try, but don't think I have enough room. The 85mm TB does NOT fit inside of the LID, I had to get a sort silicone rubber sleeve to connect MAF to lid on the old setup....

Being my car is a 6.0, formally turbocharged, the stock intake and TB were definitely a restrictive area.

Car seems way more responsive, and even sounds different under any sort of load or revving/pulling through the gears.
This is without the car even being dialed back in, as far as AFR tuning...

FWIW, (according to my HPTuners datalogs)
MAP @ WOT with LS1 intake and 78mm LS1 throttle body, was 99 kPa, and VACUUM @ 6200 rpms, was 1.1 in/Hg (and logged at as high as 1.7in/Hg)
MAP @ WOT with DLS2 intake & WARR 92mm TB was 101 kPa, and VACUUM @ 6200 rpms was 0.0 in/Hg (and never logged higher than 0.2in/Hg)


I can't wait for Saturday, to see what difference it makes (or doesn't make) at the track...both WITH and WITHOUT NITROUS.

 

Interested to see if, and how much this helps you. Good luck.

 

Thanks. Car is loaded up and ready...have about 6# of giggle gas left.