Br7ef plugs and rough idle
#22
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
Not worried about running lean considering the car already runs on the rich side AND my fuel jet is slightly larger than its supposed to be. I have talked to a nitrous company here in town and an ls tuner in huntsville about what im doing and they tell me i can spray 125 on stock tune although i wont be going over 75. When i boosted the klde i did it to prove a point and i had a spare engine laying around. I dont consider that idiotic...... it was a blast and very worth eventually killing a ring landing. Im not disagreeing with you on the fact that a tune is the correct way to do it but you and i both know the stock timing advance is very minimal in comparison to a custom tune and probably less or equal to than a custom nitrous tune. I have experience with nitrous on several other platforms and i didnt ask for advice on that in the first place. I simply asked for a colder plug that would give me a decent idle. My little wideband and reading the plugs tells me the car is still rich enough.
#25
You don't have to run a non-projected tip plug with a 75 shot. Or even a 150 shot. Although, the idea with the non-projected plug is that the nitrous won't either 1) blow out the spark or 2) worse, the plug won't turn into a flaming glowstick and kaboom the engine.
But it sounds like you have a stock engine with a 75 shot on it? Is that correct? A full set of mods would help. Most folks go straight to the 7s because they have other mods like heads/cams or other things that can increase cylinder pressure. And they tune the car so they can make them work on the street while driving around.
And I know you didn't ask for tuning advice. But what I'm telling you is you can't drop a 7 series plug into a stock engine with a stock tune and expect it to work. I don't really care what anybody tells you. If I'm selling you a nitrous kit and plugs, I'm assuming you are going to read the plugs and tune the car accordingly. The plugs are designed to be used with a modded engine and you have to tune it to make it work. My suggestion of using the BR6EF is more of a bandaid with the fouling of the plugs you are experiencing until you get the car tuned. The BR7EFs are a better plug, especially at 150 shots or more. And once you get up to 225+ you may even want to step up to an 8-series race plug or B8EFS. But they have a new set of issues as they are not resistor type plugs.
So in summary, a colder heat range is useful when you get to 100-150HP over stock, higher compression, or are using nitrous/boost to increase cylinder pressure (and the rule of thumb is for every 100HP added go a range colder with nitrous). The non-projected tip will be safer and may pick up better on the gas (think of the non-projected tip as like a half step colder).
But if you're basically on a stock car and haven't tuned it... and you're running rich with low timing in low load areas, you'll foul the BR7EFs. I recommend tuning it if you're going to push a 100 shot or more. You'll need to pull timing in the higher airmass areas of your tune. And then you can adjust the air mixture and idle or lower airmass area timing. That will make the car drive better.
If you search here, you'll see it's not uncommon to have issues with drivability with the BR7EF. So there's some finesse to making them work.
Also - both of you need to cool your ****. If I have to referee you guys, I'll put you on a 7-day vacation from the site.
But it sounds like you have a stock engine with a 75 shot on it? Is that correct? A full set of mods would help. Most folks go straight to the 7s because they have other mods like heads/cams or other things that can increase cylinder pressure. And they tune the car so they can make them work on the street while driving around.
And I know you didn't ask for tuning advice. But what I'm telling you is you can't drop a 7 series plug into a stock engine with a stock tune and expect it to work. I don't really care what anybody tells you. If I'm selling you a nitrous kit and plugs, I'm assuming you are going to read the plugs and tune the car accordingly. The plugs are designed to be used with a modded engine and you have to tune it to make it work. My suggestion of using the BR6EF is more of a bandaid with the fouling of the plugs you are experiencing until you get the car tuned. The BR7EFs are a better plug, especially at 150 shots or more. And once you get up to 225+ you may even want to step up to an 8-series race plug or B8EFS. But they have a new set of issues as they are not resistor type plugs.
So in summary, a colder heat range is useful when you get to 100-150HP over stock, higher compression, or are using nitrous/boost to increase cylinder pressure (and the rule of thumb is for every 100HP added go a range colder with nitrous). The non-projected tip will be safer and may pick up better on the gas (think of the non-projected tip as like a half step colder).
But if you're basically on a stock car and haven't tuned it... and you're running rich with low timing in low load areas, you'll foul the BR7EFs. I recommend tuning it if you're going to push a 100 shot or more. You'll need to pull timing in the higher airmass areas of your tune. And then you can adjust the air mixture and idle or lower airmass area timing. That will make the car drive better.
If you search here, you'll see it's not uncommon to have issues with drivability with the BR7EF. So there's some finesse to making them work.
Also - both of you need to cool your ****. If I have to referee you guys, I'll put you on a 7-day vacation from the site.