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Header Noise

Old Apr 14, 2017 | 07:01 AM
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Default Header Noise

So this might be hard to explain via text but I'll try. I love the exhaust sound out the rear of my car with the new setup but I hate the ticking sound the headers give. I am fairly sure it's not exhaust leak tick because every header set on any car I've ever had, has the same ticking sound. My question is how do you get rid of the sound without removing the headers? Will kooks or American racing headers have thicker material and less noise? Will wrapping the headers quiet it?

*edit I have speed engineering 1 3/4 headers and off road y with a TSP catback

Last edited by 1bdbrd; Apr 14, 2017 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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You are experiencing the classic header sound. Thicker walls, wrapping(NOT recommended), or cast manifolds(right...) would all solve it. It's that tinny resonance sound that some like, and others like you don't. Unless you get thicker wall headers, you might have to live with it.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 11:49 AM
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I figured that would happen. Who makes thicker walled headers?

Also why not wrap them? The car isn't driven in the snow or rain and the entire exhaust is stainless. Would it hold in too much heat for the thin metal to withstand?
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 02:29 PM
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Wrapping heats the tubing to a point that weakens it considerably. Not worth it just to cut noise. The noise you're speaking is what I call a "tingling" sound for lack of a better term, and usually is mostly heard from the outside only, and only slightly from the interior. I've had a few vehicles with headers to know this to be true. You are positive there are no leaks? An actual hard "tick" would indicate a leak at the header gasket on the head. Sometimes they are elusive.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 05:11 PM
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Ceramic coating. Increase the material density inside and out. Just a thought.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 05:14 PM
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^^^^ This might work for reasons given; didn't think of it(hey it's Friday...)^^^^
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 07:35 PM
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I have the same exact exhaust set up as you, and your right the tick is really annoying. I just switched about a week ago and had it dyno tuned yesterday and lost 20 ft. lbs and 5 hp. From the Mac mids. And flowmaster I had before.
So today I put the Mac mids back on, they are ceramic coated and much thicker. All I can say is wow it is so much quieter now. I have another appointment to get the car re tuned to see if I can get my power back.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 09:34 PM
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Having been to some car shows featuring old classics I've noticed that many of them had exhaust manifolds covered with porcelain. That would be an alternative albeit an expensive one.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dave04da
I have the same exact exhaust set up as you, and your right the tick is really annoying. I just switched about a week ago and had it dyno tuned yesterday and lost 20 ft. lbs and 5 hp. From the Mac mids. And flowmaster I had before.
So today I put the Mac mids back on, they are ceramic coated and much thicker. All I can say is wow it is so much quieter now. I have another appointment to get the car re tuned to see if I can get my power back.
i saw your thread about that and thought it was really weird. I've never seen macs make more power than full length. Plus flowmaster is pretty terrible for flow. Im at a loss for that one.

As far as my header noise I'm really considering going to a name brand header if their material is thicker and then coating them if the noise is still there.

As as far as the heat with wrapping, wouldn't there be more heat in a turbo crossover? Those get wrapped and no one has issues with that?
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Old Apr 19, 2017 | 10:43 PM
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I can vouch for the case of NOT wrapping headers. I wrapped a set of headers on my old second gen T/A. Just three years later I had to remove them - by the time id finished removing them, in places only the wrap remained. The metal within had crumbled away to dust just by the movement required to remove them. In the places where the pipes didn't crumble, I removed the wrap and the headers looked 50 years old never mind just three.
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TheNutDriver
I can vouch for the case of NOT wrapping headers. I wrapped a set of headers on my old second gen T/A. Just three years later I had to remove them - by the time id finished removing them, in places only the wrap remained. The metal within had crumbled away to dust just by the movement required to remove them. In the places where the pipes didn't crumble, I removed the wrap and the headers looked 50 years old never mind just three.
What material were they? Were they summer only driven or rain and snow as well? I just can't see stainless headers not driven in any wet conditions falling apart like that especially when turbo crossovers and such don't..
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Old Apr 21, 2017 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bdbrd
What material were they? Were they summer only driven or rain and snow as well? I just can't see stainless headers not driven in any wet conditions falling apart like that especially when turbo crossovers and such don't..
They were mild steel Pace setter headers. The car was driven in all weathers but we don't really have snow in the UK that often and the car was never driven in snow if we did get a light dusting of it. Obviously not all headers are equal but I would never wrap again regardless. If engine bay heat is an issue then ceramic coated I would say is probably the best bet.
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 02:07 PM
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Put some dyna mat on your floorboards to keep the sound down. It'd be a lot easier then fuking with coating on headers
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Old Apr 22, 2017 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ToeRacing
Put some dyna mat on your floorboards to keep the sound down. It'd be a lot easier then fuking with coating on headers
Doesn't help when the windows are down.
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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I had this issue with cheap eBay headers. Moved up to SE 1 7/8 and while the noise is still there, its much more bearable now.
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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I might be getting this "ticking sound" too if others have had it with SLP 1-3/4"?
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nine8ss
I had this issue with cheap eBay headers. Moved up to SE 1 7/8 and while the noise is still there, its much more bearable now.
My god I couldn't imagine how bad the other headers were if your speed engineering headers are quieter. Mine are very noisy but I can't remember how the original kooks sounded.
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Old Apr 25, 2017 | 07:38 PM
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When I was running old style Texas speed catted Y I had no tick. When I switched to new style stainless Texas speed ory I have a very noticeable tick. That's the first thing I noticed when I first started the car after install. Stainless y has thinner wall vs old style non stainless.
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