Build direction: HCI over crate
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
Build direction: HCI over crate I have a stock 02 Ls1, ls6 intake,with 2.73 stock and rear main leak. About 1 quart every 3 months. Otherwise it drives strong and great daily.
I thought about a crate ls2/ls3 but $7k+ install and extra parts for $10k and maybe 430hp seems like a lot when the ls1 can get the same numbers. And it is the last year of the trans am I like to keep it whole.
So If I just get the oil leak fixed, had quotes for $600, then while underneath add a 3000stall and tighten tranny. Then add a $2.5k cam and head kit and get it swapped for $1500. maybe $5k-$6k and be at 430hp and be in 11s is my goal. This assumes oil fix looks good on shortblock.
Then if shortblock gives I rebuild or replace bottom end with 383 or 408 and swap top end that I have.
I am looking at keep stock ls6 intake to save $ I can swap later.
PRC 225 or PRC stage 2.5 LS6
TSP V2 or SS-HT
Yank 3000 stall
ls2 chain,oil pump
ewp
speed engineering LT and ORY
3.42 gear swap
I know the cams both have great reviews. Not sure if staying with TSP package matters. I like the bigger duration of the V2 but the lift and lobes of the SS-HT
looking for 430hp or more and solid 11s car but all weekend warrior cruising and some light commuting to work.
I thought about a crate ls2/ls3 but $7k+ install and extra parts for $10k and maybe 430hp seems like a lot when the ls1 can get the same numbers. And it is the last year of the trans am I like to keep it whole.
So If I just get the oil leak fixed, had quotes for $600, then while underneath add a 3000stall and tighten tranny. Then add a $2.5k cam and head kit and get it swapped for $1500. maybe $5k-$6k and be at 430hp and be in 11s is my goal. This assumes oil fix looks good on shortblock.
Then if shortblock gives I rebuild or replace bottom end with 383 or 408 and swap top end that I have.
I am looking at keep stock ls6 intake to save $ I can swap later.
PRC 225 or PRC stage 2.5 LS6
TSP V2 or SS-HT
Yank 3000 stall
ls2 chain,oil pump
ewp
speed engineering LT and ORY
3.42 gear swap
I know the cams both have great reviews. Not sure if staying with TSP package matters. I like the bigger duration of the V2 but the lift and lobes of the SS-HT
looking for 430hp or more and solid 11s car but all weekend warrior cruising and some light commuting to work.
You did good. Don't get me wrong - if you can afford to build bigger, build bigger. BUT Adding displacement without doing the top end upgrades is a poor way to add power.
Plenty of SBE LS1's getting 430-450 HP.
Which intake manifold you going to use? Also, add some pushrods to your list. Minimum 5/16 x .080. I'd also recommend replacing the lifters while the heads are off. Lots of guys will use the LS7 lifters. This build is mild enough that should be fine. if you have money left over, an underdrive pulley would be beneficial
Plenty of SBE LS1's getting 430-450 HP.
Which intake manifold you going to use? Also, add some pushrods to your list. Minimum 5/16 x .080. I'd also recommend replacing the lifters while the heads are off. Lots of guys will use the LS7 lifters. This build is mild enough that should be fine. if you have money left over, an underdrive pulley would be beneficial
Yeah you should. 85mm maf probably good enough. If you can find a tuner willing to put the time in, I'd go speed density and ditch the maf. smooth pipe from lid to throttle body. fast 92 would be a great choice for your car.
Cheap upgrade to LS6 intake for the short term -- The throttle is 78mm, and the intake throat is 74mm. port match that intake throat to the throttle will help a bit on the top end.
Cheap upgrade to LS6 intake for the short term -- The throttle is 78mm, and the intake throat is 74mm. port match that intake throat to the throttle will help a bit on the top end.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
I like ditching the EWP for an UD, makes sense
Stall, I fear the DD. I know I know that the a good one will slip but its still high. Snapping between 4k-6.6k it will be fast but not as practical. I am cruising around south Tampa short streets and red lights so normally a 2nd gear stomp and 5k I am done.
Then hiway crusing to work I am in OD at 70 1700rpm when I want to step on it andpull my buddies s4/s6 at top. They all pull strong with 8 gears on the hiway. They also hit 420 on the dyno and do low 12s to hi 11s.
hence my goals. 430/11s+ but I want to drive it. And on the bridge I will be in traffic. A little pain to drive is ok since it is not a daily but I dont want it to be stalling or surging or cant run AC and have to plan when I can drive the car.
That said. If I can get a raped ape and still drive it in comfortably in light traffic and not fall on my face at 70mph when I step on it! Then help me... :-)
I was thinking 3200-3000 stall range for street. the SS-HT is a 228/232 which seems to be ok for that range. V2 is a 232/234 maybe pushing it.
228R probably ideal for 3200 range BUT it seems the DD differance from reviews on the V2 and SS-HT are much better then teh 228R crowd. Everyone wish they went a little bigger and the V2/SSHT all have great feedback for insane around town torque and mid range and they still have 230+ 600+ exhaust which helps the top end at the track and HP dyno.
Stall, I fear the DD. I know I know that the a good one will slip but its still high. Snapping between 4k-6.6k it will be fast but not as practical. I am cruising around south Tampa short streets and red lights so normally a 2nd gear stomp and 5k I am done.
Then hiway crusing to work I am in OD at 70 1700rpm when I want to step on it andpull my buddies s4/s6 at top. They all pull strong with 8 gears on the hiway. They also hit 420 on the dyno and do low 12s to hi 11s.
hence my goals. 430/11s+ but I want to drive it. And on the bridge I will be in traffic. A little pain to drive is ok since it is not a daily but I dont want it to be stalling or surging or cant run AC and have to plan when I can drive the car.
That said. If I can get a raped ape and still drive it in comfortably in light traffic and not fall on my face at 70mph when I step on it! Then help me... :-)
I was thinking 3200-3000 stall range for street. the SS-HT is a 228/232 which seems to be ok for that range. V2 is a 232/234 maybe pushing it.
228R probably ideal for 3200 range BUT it seems the DD differance from reviews on the V2 and SS-HT are much better then teh 228R crowd. Everyone wish they went a little bigger and the V2/SSHT all have great feedback for insane around town torque and mid range and they still have 230+ 600+ exhaust which helps the top end at the track and HP dyno.
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Verdad Gallardo I like ditching the EWP for an UD, makes sense
Stall, I fear the DD. I know I know that the a good one will slip but its still high. Snapping between 4k-6.6k it will be fast but not as practical. I am cruising around south Tampa short streets and red lights so normally a 2nd gear stomp and 5k I am done.
Then hiway crusing to work I am in OD at 70 1700rpm when I want to step on it andpull my buddies s4/s6 at top. They all pull strong with 8 gears on the hiway. They also hit 420 on the dyno and do low 12s to hi 11s.
hence my goals. 430/11s+ but I want to drive it. And on the bridge I will be in traffic. A little pain to drive is ok since it is not a daily but I dont want it to be stalling or surging or cant run AC and have to plan when I can drive the car.
That said. If I can get a raped ape and still drive it in comfortably in light traffic and not fall on my face at 70mph when I step on it! Then help me... :-)
I was thinking 3200-3000 stall range for street. the SS-HT is a 228/232 which seems to be ok for that range. V2 is a 232/234 maybe pushing it.
228R probably ideal for 3200 range BUT it seems the DD differance from reviews on the V2 and SS-HT are much better then teh 228R crowd. Everyone wish they went a little bigger and the V2/SSHT all have great feedback for insane around town torque and mid range and they still have 230+ 600+ exhaust which helps the top end at the track and HP dyno.
Stall, I fear the DD. I know I know that the a good one will slip but its still high. Snapping between 4k-6.6k it will be fast but not as practical. I am cruising around south Tampa short streets and red lights so normally a 2nd gear stomp and 5k I am done.
Then hiway crusing to work I am in OD at 70 1700rpm when I want to step on it andpull my buddies s4/s6 at top. They all pull strong with 8 gears on the hiway. They also hit 420 on the dyno and do low 12s to hi 11s.
hence my goals. 430/11s+ but I want to drive it. And on the bridge I will be in traffic. A little pain to drive is ok since it is not a daily but I dont want it to be stalling or surging or cant run AC and have to plan when I can drive the car.
That said. If I can get a raped ape and still drive it in comfortably in light traffic and not fall on my face at 70mph when I step on it! Then help me... :-)
I was thinking 3200-3000 stall range for street. the SS-HT is a 228/232 which seems to be ok for that range. V2 is a 232/234 maybe pushing it.
228R probably ideal for 3200 range BUT it seems the DD differance from reviews on the V2 and SS-HT are much better then teh 228R crowd. Everyone wish they went a little bigger and the V2/SSHT all have great feedback for insane around town torque and mid range and they still have 230+ 600+ exhaust which helps the top end at the track and HP dyno.
Not sure if you are completely against the idea of an LS3 yet but remember that it will make 430 crank hp and drive exactly like your current stock engine does. Something that a heads and cam with big stall will never do. No worrying about valve spring life or temps or any of that nonsense. Just start the car and drive.
Some basic mods to it would make great power too.
Some basic mods to it would make great power too.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 129
Likes: 2
also I like and want the fast little rough feeing from heads and Cam and will enjoy it rough and loud as long as iit not stalling or surging except at cold startup
little temperament is ok
the 430 crates I saw were $7k plus accessories and install and yes fast but they are a little tame sounding and not as salty! Then i would add Cam ext to beef it up and spend a lot more for same driving.
maybe just do stall gear headers and Cam swap
will a v2 or ssht be ok Cam only, just chain springs.
that would save $ and I would have the fun factor and sound.
then when short block or something major fails I can do the full shortblock or long block
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 3
From: WNY
Not sure if you are completely against the idea of an LS3 yet but remember that it will make 430 crank hp and drive exactly like your current stock engine does. Something that a heads and cam with big stall will never do. No worrying about valve spring life or temps or any of that nonsense. Just start the car and drive.
Some basic mods to it would make great power too.
Some basic mods to it would make great power too.
All new everything + piece of mind warranty for now. And even MORE room to grow you will appreciate later.
If I were to do it all again I would sell my stock LS1 to some old school hotroder and get a bigger cube crate LS engine. Swap the mounts, install a decent exhaust with a electric cutout again. Then enjoy being able to drive it with out worrying about warming the car up before driving, or bucking in low speed traffic, or the stock bottom end and piston wrist pins.
Last edited by PhoneniX; Nov 17, 2017 at 04:20 PM. Reason: spacing