I would like to do a good job relocating the battery in my '99 Firehawk, and could really use some help, and pictures, with the following questions:
- What battery did you use, and how did you mount it in the trunk area?
- What size wire did you use?
- What grommet did you use to get the cable through the sheet metal to the underside of the car?
- Where did you connect the "Ground Cable"?
- Did you make any wiring changes in the engine compartment?

Thanks all for your help,
John

 

I'm about to do this myself, had a good plan but always looking for better suggestions/ideas...subscribed.

 

To answer some of your questions (I did mine back in 2001-2002):
-Optima Red top battery, custom mounted in spare tire well under plastic panel (no kits when I did this way back).
-Used a Ron Francis 1 gauge (hot and ground) battery relocation wiring kit. I would use 1 or 1/0 welding cable now as it is easier to work with due to the finer strand wiring.
-Moroso through panel connectors (no grommet on the hot and ground). I did use a grommet for the 4 gauge alternator wire.
-Hot and ground are ran inside the car under the carpet right under the heater box to the through panel connectors. The hot goes through a master cutoff switch. The ground connects to the starter bolt. I also ran another 1 gauge to the block and from the block to the frame (clean bare metal on all connections) as well as the cylinder heads to the block. There is another body ground (6 gauge) at the back of the car from the battery to the frame (this was part of the Ron Francis kit).
-Hot wire follows the ground up to the starter hot wire. From the hot wire to the factory power distribution connector (red plastic box). All 1 gauge.
-My alternator wire is 4 gauge and runs from the alternator all the way back to the battery.

When I first did this design, I copied the factory wiring except for beefing up the cables for the longer run. It works great and works as the factory setup. I have added some more grounds to help reduce EMI/RFI.

If I had it to do over, I would spend my time and money elsewhere as it really does not give you much and makes everything more of a PITA. If you are N/A or FI, you would be better suited with a light weight track battery. Eventually, they will make a lightweight battery that works as good as the lead acid/optimas.

 

you shouldn't need to run a ground all the way up front. find a good spot in back, clean the paint so you get to bare metal and use that. Saves weight AND money.

 

You might get away with only a chassis ground with an older style carb vehicle but you will be asking for trouble if you do it on an EFI/modern vehicle platform. It might not make a huge difference that you notice but it will reduce EMI/RFI noise and make the car easier to start (especially when hot and resistance is high).

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...-tutorial.html

here is mine some of your questions should be answered within

 

I used the bmr tray but had to make a different tie down for it. I used 1/0 cable from battery to starter through the firewall. 1/0 for the ground in the back that is bolted down by the rear shoulder seatbelt. Make sure you remove the paint for your ground. Everything else is 2 gauge wire. All of it was ofc welding cable.

Only issue I had was i had to ground the starter relay to the chassis rather than through the bcm. It would only click after relocation, the bcm would no longer let the starter engage. I really can't say why.

 

Call Tick....get their kit. Virtually idiot proof...which is why I did it, lol