Header's, which one?
#22
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lol, you go from recommending the most expensive to the least expensive. BTW, for whatever reason I have heard a lot of people say the MAC's sound like crap. i can't speak from personal experience on an fbody though. Also, they won't give quite as much power as LT's and definitely not as much low-end.
I'd say Jet-hot's if your exposed to alot of rain or snow. if not than coated Pacesetter's w/ TSP Y-pipe. If you want ultimate durability to the elements that go w/T304 stainless Supermaxx headers w/ catted Y-pipe only $1049 shipped on a GP going now
I'd say Jet-hot's if your exposed to alot of rain or snow. if not than coated Pacesetter's w/ TSP Y-pipe. If you want ultimate durability to the elements that go w/T304 stainless Supermaxx headers w/ catted Y-pipe only $1049 shipped on a GP going now
#23
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well... some of us dont need coated headers, and pacesetter coating rusts from the inside out. so you go buy those, and rust up your "COATED" headers. buddy has em and they rusted after 1 month.
#24
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Well people have had them around here for a lot longer and not rusted. is this the same buddy that you put 5 cars on from 40-100mph with the same exact mods, lol. Seems the poor guy is cursed.
#25
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Im currently running my coated jet-hot's, which I painted with 3 thin coats of VHT "flame proof" 1500 degree clear coat. Theyve been on the car for almost 5 months with no rust at all. This winter will be the true test, but its looking pretty optimistic, as long as I keep the salt off the bottom of the car (frequent washes). The clear coat has not burned, peeled, flaked, or even discolored, even on the primaries.
-Tony
-Tony
#26
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Tony, where did you buy the VHT clear coat and how much does it cost? Is it actually sprayed on or did you apply it with a paint brush. That sounds like a definite good idea for me to do with my Pacesetters before I get them installed....
#27
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Jegs has it. IIRC it was like 7 or 8 bucks per 12 oz spray can. I bought 2 cans but didnt use it all. Its supposedly chemical resistant after being fully cured (by heat of normal operation). Look for a product called "flame proof" made by VHT. although now that I think about it, the clear was only rated at 1200 degrees. The solid colors were all 1500. Oh, and I wiped down the headers with rubbing alcohol first to remove any oily residue left from the factory, that way the paint had a clean surface to grip to.
-T
-T
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Cool, thanks for the info. I would think this would definitely help, adding extra layers protection like that,and you can't beat the price.
Cleanign with rubbing alcohol is a definite good idea....I am also wondering if possibly roughing up the surface with a fine sandpaper ( so as to not mess u the finish too much) would greatly help the adherence. the Jet-hot and Pacesetter coating is pretty smooth and not sure how well paint will adhere to it...
Cleanign with rubbing alcohol is a definite good idea....I am also wondering if possibly roughing up the surface with a fine sandpaper ( so as to not mess u the finish too much) would greatly help the adherence. the Jet-hot and Pacesetter coating is pretty smooth and not sure how well paint will adhere to it...