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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 07:09 PM
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Default LSx rear cover

Whats your trick to torqueing the rear cover bolts while on an engine stand? Or should I just plan to do it before the motor gets installed? I would like to get this out the way NOW , so I can also seal up the oil pan. Then after that I was going to prime the oiling system. Cant prime the oiling system with a chance of oil leaks in the rear tho.
What ya think?
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 08:26 PM
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The trick to doing it on the engine stand is you take it off the engine stand.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 08:36 PM
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It’s always tough to get to them while on the stand. Personally, I don’t use a torque wrench on my cover bolts...ever. But I’ve pulled on enough torque wrenches for all of us through the years. I have a good feel for low torque numbers like cover bolts. I wouldn’t recommend this tactic if you don’t feel comfortable doing it.
Center the cover on the crank flange, either with the seal in the cover, or an install tool. Doesn’t matter. With engine upside down on stand, make sure the bottom of your cover is even with block (oil pan rails) on both sides before you tighten any bolts. Get a few of the bolts good and snug so that cover won’t move, and hit the cover bolts after your off the stand. Make sure you have enough of the cover bolts snug enough, so that when you torque the long oil pan bolts, the rear cover isn’t pulled toward pan. This will pull the rear cover toward the pan enough to un-center the rear seal on the crank flange, and cause a possible leak. I’ve done more LS engines this way than I care to count, without issue.
Im sure you’ll get plenty of other methods as well on this subject.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 8.Lug
The trick to doing it on the engine stand is you take it off the engine stand.
...another award winning answer by 8Lug!
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle


...another award winning answer by 8Lug!
Well there's no other way to do it if you want it done properly - the oil pan should be in place and tightened down fully before the rear cover is installed or else it won't line up properly, so you may as well just set the engine on the ground. Prove me wrong.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 06:41 AM
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[QUOTE=8.Lug;19937842]Well there's no other way to do it if you want it done properly - the oil pan should be in place and tightened down fully before the rear cover is installed or else it won't line up properly, so you may as well just set the engine on the ground. Prove me wrong.[/QUOTE

lol...
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 8.Lug
The trick to doing it on the engine stand is you take it off the engine stand.
Dam that was creative. Thanxs
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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Look, the front cover, the oil pan, the rear cover and the transmissions all fit like tetris pieces. If you want them fit properly without the risk of leaks - or worse, cracks - you'll do this:
Install the oil pan
Install the 2 long rear cover bolts that go through the pan
Install the top two bolts
Remove the two long bolts
Take engine off stand
Install rest of cover bolts
Put the engine back on the stand and remove oil pan

It's a pain but this is how it should be done to make sure the rear cover is perfectly aligned with the oil pan.
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 03:48 PM
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One thing different is Im using a aftermarket Moroso rear sump oil pan so its a little different than stock. But it look like im going to lock down the rear cover by hand . torque the front. Align both covers with a straight edge. Then install the pan with a little rtv in the corners. My motor is in my living room and i borrow an engine lift from work. So its a little bit of a pain to lift the motor at this point
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Old Jul 27, 2018 | 04:13 PM
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i had the same problem.......put the jack under the oil pan to hold the engine up .....removed the offending motor stand arms out of the way.........tq bolts......reinstall motor stand arms....take jack off from under oil pan.....done
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 07:06 PM
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I know this thread is old but to anyone wondering how do you torque the rear cover bolts of an LSX or any LS for that matter when the engine is on the stand you can buy an open end wrench set that comes in a set from 10MM up that connects to a 3/8 drive ratchet or torque wrench. Anyway that's how I was able to torque the fasteners to spec for the rear cover when the engine is on the stand..

Then there's the age old torque method of "goodandtight". I've used that more times than I can count too.
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