Today I discovered my water pump is the culprit of my overheating and coolant loss issue. I have long neglected the cooling system on this car so I want to put a flushing agent in it before I take it apart to replace the water pump. I have a couple questions. 1.) I want to install a flushing tee to backflush the cooling system, what hose is the best to install the tee in? 2.) since I will be using a garden hose to flush the cooling system is there a way to drain the block to get the tap water out of the cooling system since this is a full aluminum engine and I don't want the minerals from the tap water in they cooling system because I will be using distilled water with coolant when I refill the system.

 

Is there a way to drain the overflow tank so I can get all of the old junky coolant out of the system so it doesn't contaminate the fresh coolant?

Am I ok to use a standard coolant like Prestone, Peak, or do I need any special kind? At this point I'm planning on using a regular green coolant. I'm not a fan of Dex Cool, seems to break down and get nasty as it gets older.

 

Tap water will do NOTHING to your aluminum parts.....UNLESS you have reported total undrinkable crap quality city water......

Using Distilled water is a complete waste. 20+ years here with my 1998 Trans Am and hose water....everything is fine.

No need to install a Flushing Tee..........

Simply remove your t-stat.....then put the t-stat housing back on with just one bolt holding it on.......drain your radiator, put the drain plug back in. Fill the radiator with 75/25 water / (((aluminum safe)) degreaser like Formula 88 from Home Depot. Run it for 15-20 min at idle WITH RADIATOR CAP OFF so no pressure builds up. Then let it sit for a couple hours. Then drain the radiator. Then refill the radiator and put the hose in the radiator on medium. Start it back up and let it run and rinse/drain until the water is coming out clear......

****Note: Check coolant temp frequently so it does not overheat for some reason.

You're not gonna get a better flush than that.

Removing freeze plugs and other crap.....thats for engines that are completely blocked by sludge or other kind of strange **** that somehow got in there.

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Yes....take your battery out....unbolt that tank and it comes right out. Flush it real good with degreaser or gasoline. Then rinse it out.

If you want a cooler running engine and a much cleaner coolant system.....GO GREEN coolant......whatever brand you want. I went GREEN years and years ago....best move I ever made. Dexcool is ****........

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LS6427, thanks for the tips! I replaced the water pump and thermostat today. After I installed them I forward and back flushed the cooling system with flushing tees and the garden hose. I drained the water out of the radiator then filled up the radiator. I started the car and let it run with the radiator cap off until the fluid reached the radiator neck then I put the cap on. I had the heater on high, but never got any heat out of the vents. The temp gauge hung out at 210 which is where it normally sits, but then it got hotter and I still didn't have any heat out of the vents. I shut the car off and felt all of the hoses. The hose that comes out of the top of the water pump was hot, but the hose that comes out of the thermostat was cold and I think the hoses that go to the heater core were cold also.

I think I might have an air pocket stuck somewhere, any ideas?

 

You have an air pocket, it will probably work it's way out after a couple drive cycles, you'll just need to keep topping off the coolant. They sell tools that pull a vacuum in the cooling system, then it uses the vacuum to fill the system with coolant. It's a 2 minute job. I'm sure some auto stores rent them, I have a Snap-On one that works great.

You don't need to spend this much, I just figured I'd link you to the one I use.
https://store.snapon.com/Cooling-Sys...l-P888852.aspx

Keep in mind that the temp gauge is incredibly inaccurate. I have a 160* thermostat and a scan gauge. The gauge in the dash is always a little before 210, where as the scan gauge reads 20-30* cooler.

 

I was able to get the bubble out by leaving the cap off, let it run, rev it, let bubbles come out, top off. Did that a few times and all looks to be good now. Wish I would have rented a vacuum tool to save some time, I guess I know for next time!

I agree that the factory temp gauge seems to be very inaccurate, I was told my car had a 160* t-stat in it when I got it, the temp gauge always hung out a little below the 210* mark on the gauge, When I replaced the water pump I changed the t-stat and saw it it a 160*

 

I would put the correct thermostat back in. 160 is too low..

 

no its not

 

Engines don't run as efficiently at that low a temp.