Mass airflow sensor
I didn't look up the part number. Just look up the one that says it fits your vehicle. It will be a direct replacement and no will not require tuning as long as it is the right one for your car.
Could always check rock auto too.
Could always check rock auto too.
Delphi AF10056 Mass Air Flow Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VE4BQM..._lAmADbN1NR4XE
Is this the one? Does it require any tuning?
Is this the one? Does it require any tuning?
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Man I only know grams per second, it's what I've watched for 20 years as a tech. It should be around 5 g/s maybe 5.5
I looked up a conversion and around .7-.75 lbs per minute is what I would expect to see, that is around 5.2 - 5.6 g/s and that would be at around 550 - 600 rpm or so.
At near 700 rpm, and this is my best guess, I would imagine you would see around 6.5 g/s which is around .9 lb hr
1.09 is 8.24 g/s which isn't too horribly off, and may be just right depending on your particular setup.
However it saying its at 18:1 is funky, your maf is either reading right or reading high which would make it rich not lean.
You may need to look at the 02 sensors on this one.
Does it happen to run good cold then go to **** after running a few minutes?
I looked up a conversion and around .7-.75 lbs per minute is what I would expect to see, that is around 5.2 - 5.6 g/s and that would be at around 550 - 600 rpm or so.
At near 700 rpm, and this is my best guess, I would imagine you would see around 6.5 g/s which is around .9 lb hr
1.09 is 8.24 g/s which isn't too horribly off, and may be just right depending on your particular setup.
However it saying its at 18:1 is funky, your maf is either reading right or reading high which would make it rich not lean.
You may need to look at the 02 sensors on this one.
Does it happen to run good cold then go to **** after running a few minutes?
I drove 2 hours to get another one. Still doing same crap. Purrs like a kitten unplugged. Plugged up lean as heck. Check voltage going to it. All is good. Ohmed the ground it is good. Honestly I'm at my end. Help someone plz.
Like I said above it looks like it was reading close enough and you need to look at the 02 sensors next.
So again, does it run good cold and go to **** as it warms up?
Can you see fuel trims in the data stream, if so. What are the LTFT and STFT readings at idle.
Unplugging the MAF usually shows a bad maf but it can also show that it runs good in open loop and when you plug it in and goes to closed loop it goes bad due to other sensors reporting faulty readings.
So again, does it run good cold and go to **** as it warms up?
Can you see fuel trims in the data stream, if so. What are the LTFT and STFT readings at idle.
Unplugging the MAF usually shows a bad maf but it can also show that it runs good in open loop and when you plug it in and goes to closed loop it goes bad due to other sensors reporting faulty readings.
I don't know what program is required to open those files but I can't open them
Check your pcv hoses real close for a leak. Probably not a vacuum leak but check them all real good, the rubber hoses split, turn to goo, collapse, get holes in them, over time.
Check your pcv hoses real close for a leak. Probably not a vacuum leak but check them all real good, the rubber hoses split, turn to goo, collapse, get holes in them, over time.
Look at the 02 sensors.
Let the car idle and warm up. Once warm or near warm, the voltage should go up and down and up and down from around .1-.9
Most important is that it varies fairly quickly above and below .5, so for example may go up to .7 then rapidly back to .2 then .8 then .1 then .7 then .2 it should go up and down quickly on both front 02 sensors which in the data stream are 02 sensor B1S1 and 02 sensor B2S1
The B1S2 and B2S2 are the sensors behind the catalytic converters and do not matter, those just monitor catalytic converter function. Make sure you are looking at B1S1 and B2S1, those are the front ones and responsible for air fuel ratio readings.
In both your pics above both 02 sensors are at .3xx volts at both times you took screen shots. That's very odd. They may be stuck. Also your long and short term fuel trims are at 0 in both pictures. That's also funky. The short term moves up and down with the 02 sensor readings and the long term is an average of the short term and or compensates the short term compensation. Long story on how it works. But it shouldn't be 0 especially if you are running rich or lean.
Those numbers could be because it's in closed loop, it shows to be at 95 degrees coolant temp on the screen. Take pics with the engine fully warmed up. Should be around 180-200
Let the car idle and warm up. Once warm or near warm, the voltage should go up and down and up and down from around .1-.9
Most important is that it varies fairly quickly above and below .5, so for example may go up to .7 then rapidly back to .2 then .8 then .1 then .7 then .2 it should go up and down quickly on both front 02 sensors which in the data stream are 02 sensor B1S1 and 02 sensor B2S1
The B1S2 and B2S2 are the sensors behind the catalytic converters and do not matter, those just monitor catalytic converter function. Make sure you are looking at B1S1 and B2S1, those are the front ones and responsible for air fuel ratio readings.
In both your pics above both 02 sensors are at .3xx volts at both times you took screen shots. That's very odd. They may be stuck. Also your long and short term fuel trims are at 0 in both pictures. That's also funky. The short term moves up and down with the 02 sensor readings and the long term is an average of the short term and or compensates the short term compensation. Long story on how it works. But it shouldn't be 0 especially if you are running rich or lean.
Those numbers could be because it's in closed loop, it shows to be at 95 degrees coolant temp on the screen. Take pics with the engine fully warmed up. Should be around 180-200
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 5, 2019 at 03:41 PM.