Hello, I was wondering if y'all might be able to point me in the right direction. Trying to hunt down the Valve Cover with the PCV Grommet on the driver's side. What year and models have the Driver's side PCV Grommet valve Cover? I'd like to find it at a junkyard or used classifieds but figured I'd go in with a bit more information to help narrow down my hunt. I currently have the 3/8 (i think) hose fitting Valve Cover from the donor truck, 2005 Silverado 5.3L. I have a budget swapped squarebody, so not trying to buy some fancy valve covers or catch can system. When I look at other people's projects they all seem to have the money for a catch can system or something but I'm just trying to utilize OEM parts on the cheap. A friend gave me the correct PCV hose with the Valve in it, so I just need the Cover. I suppose I could try to adapt the 3/8 barbed fitting somehow to the PCV valve but figured it would just be easier to install the correct valve cover if I can locate it for cheap. I currently have a breather filter on it and damn does it stink in the cab instantly when I decelerate and I have a sneaky suspicion that something else is getting negatively impacted from not having a proper PCV system. I have the passenger side capped, I'm thinking I probably need to have that tapped into one of the capped ports on my Throttle Body, or directly to the intake manifold? I looked at a few PCV diagrams and I'm not really understanding why the driver's side has a PCV Valve typically but the passenger doesn't, so I thought it was safe to just block off the passenger side for the moment. I do not have the stock Air Box. I am utilizing some sections of the stock intake for the couplers but don't have any ports on them or anything. Maybe down the road I'll go with an oil separator but for now I figured I'd could just swoop up a valve cover for $10 to $20 from a wrecking yard or classifieds. Thanks

 

I think the valve cover you have has a PCV in it.

Try blowing and sucking through the pipe, PCV will block air flow one direction but not the other.

Your driver side valve cover/pcv setup should connect to the intake manifold. The other valve cover needs to connect to a fresh filtered air source, which is usually the intake tube.

 

All the early 00s trucks were set up that way. The original VCs in alot of them are notorious for oil consumption, but then later on, they got a handle on it.

The Dorman replacement one is about as good as it gets.

The PCV thing (not sure whether it's a valve or an orifice) goes from the VC to the intake, where vacuum sucks nastification into itself to be burned and cease to exist; clean replacement air is drawn into the pass side VC at the front from a port at the back of the TB.


Driver's side w/ PCV valve/orifice



Pass side makeup air

 

Thanks peeps, I was under the impression it was just an orifice but I will try the suck/blow method to verify. And yea, I checked RockAuto/AutoZone/Oreilly for nearly all years 1997+ Vette 1998+ Camaro and 99+Silverado/Avalanche/Express/Tahoe/Suburban for a replacement VC and it looks like they are only using an updated one with the built in orifice for all models. I will tap the passenger side into the TB.

 

Another plan is to go ahead and go to the LS6 valley cover instead of using the driver valve cover. Still plumb fresh air into the passenger though.

I'm not sure if the LS6 has a built in pcv or what but it's a much better setup for reducing oil consumption

 

I see so for the LS6 valley cover route ... it would basically come out of the driver side VC PCV orifice and then breathe or dump the oil into the lifter valley?

I just moved to Eastern NC and the humidity clogged up the breather. When I fired her up, she pushed oil out from VC gasket I think.
Edit ... after pulling the breather off it's actually soaked in oil. Glad I'm fixing this issue right now.

 

Well I had some good fortune at the local "U-Pull-It" yard and after walking for nearly 4 minutes to get to the back of the lot, I popped the hood on the first LS vehicle I saw, a Tahoe, I'm not sure of the year, early 2000'sish, and not only was everything untouched but it had the VC for the driver with the PCV grommet that I was looking for and the passenger side PCV hose, I went ahead and snagged the driver side PCV as a backup since the one I have is from AZ and it's pretty dry and brittle. W00t. I got all three items for like $26. I'll do some more hunting when I get more cash to try and find a LS6 Valley Cover. I'm probably the only person in the world going backwards with GM's PCV design but it is what it is for now.

Before I drove this 76 Blazer from Phx to NC a few weeks ago, I changed out the Valve Stem Seals for both the Intake and Exhaust as I had a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust and that seems to be resolved now. Do leaky valve stem seals also cause excessive oil blow by which would then make it's way into the PCV and Intake?

 

Valve seals wont cause blow by, no

Valve stem seals will allow oil to go straight into the cylinder, or the exhaust. Oil in the intake is from the pcv system

 

Oh yea doh, the valve seal is preventing the oil that is lubricating the valvetrain top side from going down the valve into the cylinder ...I hit my head a lot I'm an Aries, you'll have to forgive me.

I just got back from the Eastern Shore of VA, about 450 mile round trip, pulled the PCV hose, and the side close to the manifold is dry and not shiny so it looks like she's not sucking oil into the intake. She definitely idles down faster after starter up, I mean we are only talking like a second but it's noticeable.

Had to tow a 12' x 6' Uhaul to the Shore to get my dining table set and close that storage unit so no more bill on that and we finally have furniture at the new house. I got like 10 mpg towing that thing, barely going 55 to 60 the whole way. Down from about 16 mpg when I was going 55-60 driving across the states. The 14b FF i swapped in has 4.10s so highway cruising is not optimum for gas mileage with the little 30.5" tires. She looks wack with these little tires but my 33"x12.5's were dry rotted and I couldn't afford new ones or find usable replacements.

Got a new issue for a thread on a different forum i guess, right before I went to pick up the Uhaul, going into Reverse blows my fuse for the Turn signals, well i suppose it's for the Backup Lights too, says Dir Sig at the bottom of the glass fuse post and at the top of the same glass fuse it says B/U Lmps. Hunting down a short I think in the wiring or bulbs/sockets. It hasn't seen this much rain in a long time and it's probably the first time in it's life it's ever been in 80-100% humidity conditions. I drove all the way across the country with no issues and then I get here and start having electrical gremlins after only two weeks (-_-). My brand new master cylinder already has rust on it lol.

 

Try new bulbs man. I'm a tech and you'd be surprised what kind of crazy *** problems a bad filament will cause.

Had a C10 pickup in the other day that the RF running lights and blinker wouldn't work if you turned the headlights on but would work if you turned them off. All it was was the bulb in the RF turn signal killing the whole LF circuit.

Seen a lot of other weird **** too from dual filament bulbs having one wire fall out and lay across the other filament and short everything together