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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 10:36 AM
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Default Steps after build completed

Hello, I will be done with my LS1 camaro build here this weekend and Im just kind of wondering what the procedure is directly after the build is done. Like should I take it straight to the tuner or drive it for alittle bit and than do that.
Here's all the things I did to it to give you some insight.

Fast 102 LSXR intake manifold and big gulp throttle body
TSP 228R .228/.228 .600/.600 112LSA cam
243 Heads, with TSP dual valve springs and new Michigan Motorsports 1.7 Rocker arms with trunnion upgrade.
LS7 Lifters
LS7 MAF with LS7 to LS1 MAF connector conversion
Stock injectors with Fast billet fuel rails and Fast F-Body fuel kit
1 7-8 Long tubes with ORY

Any reccomendations are welcomed including a good tuning shop near me, North west Indiana, this is my first time building a car like this so im kind of a noob on what to do when its done.
pics for attention



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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 12:15 PM
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Isn't the MAF supposed to be like 10" from the throttle body?
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by theunderlord
Isn't the MAF supposed to be like 10" from the throttle body?
The Fbody 93-02 era its maybe 6" from tb
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 12:45 PM
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OOF, well i didnt know that, but its not too late to change it so i will
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 01:14 PM
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Nice! That's one thing taken care of! What ECU are you going to run, keeping it stock?
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 02:19 PM
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stock ecu, I already have a appointment with a dyno tuner, Spooltek. My question for this whole thread is like should I be driving this car, should i not be, should i drive it x amount of miles and than change the oil, what should i really be looking out for/whats the procedure, like i said this is my first time and i dont want my car to blow up on the dyno LOL.
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 03:15 PM
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Without a new tune, the car will likely run very, very rough, and will likely require you having to hold the accelerator pedal down a little to make it idle. I recommend you DO NOT try to start it without at least a mail-in tune at minimum. Your risking washing down cylinders with saturated fuel by the ECM not being tuned to the correct demand of air to fuel for the new setup.
Your best order of business, to protect what you’ve built here, is to have it towed on a rollback to a competent tuner that knows the LS platform well. I preach on here fairly often that guys getting involved in builds on budgets…or no budget…should be willing to spend $600 to $1000 for a good tune after the build is ready to go. It’s every bit as important as choosing the right camshaft/head combo…maybe even more important. Bad tune equals bad performance. If the tune is off, you’ll hate the driveability, and everything about the car. You’ll feel like you wasted your money and that the combo is wrong. I’ve seen it here and other places as well, many times.
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 07:09 PM
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Ok we’ll thank you for your input, I just bought a AFR gauge so I can watch and make sure it’s not super lean or super rich. from what I’ve Read on here, because I have MAF and O2 sensors the cars ecm will try and compensate is this not true?
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 07:12 PM
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And to respond to the tuner, I’ve chosen Spooltek in portage Indiana. They have a dyno and use HP tuners and most importantly have been recommended to me by a lot of people so I feel confident he’ll take care of me
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Old Mar 18, 2022 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tyson2699
Ok we’ll thank you for your input, I just bought a AFR gauge so I can watch and make sure it’s not super lean or super rich. from what I’ve Read on here, because I have MAF and O2 sensors the cars ecm will try and compensate is this not true?
Its very true, but the ECM is tuned to the engines parameters. It will try to compensate for slight changes that it might encounter, such as an elevation change, or a big sweep in ambient temps. It can’t adjust to a major change on actual airflow read by the MAF, due to big changes in airflow, caused by camshaft, intakes, etc. Your keeping your OEM injectors, so you won’t need a complete re-write in your fuel mapping (VE tables) but it will need some work. Sounds like you’ve found a competent tuner, so you should be fine.
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tyson2699
And to respond to the tuner, I’ve chosen Spooltek in portage Indiana. They have a dyno and use HP tuners and most importantly have been recommended to me by a lot of people so I feel confident he’ll take care of me
You should speak directly to your chosen tuner about any break-in procedure for a new build. You need to have a reasonably close tune to properly run in a new motor, but that may be difficult if you don't tune for yourself. If you trust someone to tune your engine, trust the rest of their advice. If you can't trust any part of it, find somebody else.
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Old Mar 19, 2022 | 08:46 AM
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One thing to maybe consider before your appointment is actually getting bigger injectors. I say this because I remember on my old bolt on setup that the stock injectors were done. Once I went h/c I knew I had to get some. I ended up getting the fast 36 lb and now they are about 80/85 duty cycle. Just something to keep in mind. If you don’t change now before going, that will require you to see someone after changing them out because there are changes in the pcm that need to be made.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Firebirdmuscle
One thing to maybe consider before your appointment is actually getting bigger injectors. I say this because I remember on my old bolt on setup that the stock injectors were done. Once I went h/c I knew I had to get some. I ended up getting the fast 36 lb and now they are about 80/85 duty cycle. Just something to keep in mind. If you don’t change now before going, that will require you to see someone after changing them out because there are changes in the pcm that need to be made.
Just to add to your comment, it would be easy to bring bigger injectors to the tuner as you baby the car there on an old tune. Injector swaps would add maybe 5 minutes to the overall mechanical process and depending on available data, an unknown amount of time to the tuning process.
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 05:12 PM
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That’s a good idea actually I think I’ll do that, buy some injectors and bring them I mean. One thing I really need help with is the intake setup, I see most people use the FTP 104 lid but I can’t find it anywhere and I really don’t want any bottle necks in this system. What should I do?
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Old Mar 20, 2022 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by tyson2699
That’s a good idea actually I think I’ll do that, buy some injectors and bring them I mean. One thing I really need help with is the intake setup, I see most people use the FTP 104 lid but I can’t find it anywhere and I really don’t want any bottle necks in this system. What should I do?
I'm curious to know also. Cannot find the 104 at all.
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