ASP or SLP?
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Houston TX
ASP or SLP? im looking for some more bolt on stuff and see that asp pullies and slp are the same price but not the same package, um which will give me better results? and about how long does install take for a 17yr old?
Originally Posted by ws62001ta
im looking for some more bolt on stuff and see that asp pullies and slp are the same price but not the same package, um which will give me better results? and about how long does install take for a 17yr old?
Hope you have a "pulley puller" and torque wrench....if not let a shop do it...by the time u buy both of those you could of had it installed for 50$ less.
if you have those with no experience what so ever and have no knowledge at all.....wont take more than 2 hours......if you cant do it that fast....hmmm...well...
I'd go with ASP, they are known for making awesome pulleys, while SLP makes MANY parts with mediocre quality.
Also, I'm 17, it only took me about 45 minutes, but I had to remove the pulley for the cam swap, so I knew what I was doing.
Also, I'm 17, it only took me about 45 minutes, but I had to remove the pulley for the cam swap, so I knew what I was doing.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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I wouldn't buy SLP if I could help it. About the only product they make that I like is thier d/d exhaust.
What does that have to do with anything? This install will seem overwhelming for people with little car experience.
I know some 17 year olds who were swapping 350's into S10s, and I know some who can't change their oil. So it depends.
Or you could just rent them for free at Autozone. You can even do the swap in their parking lot (actually done that multiple times, an alternator, water pump, and a steering wheel, all on seperate occasions!).
With the alt and water pump, I didn't want to have to drive all the way back for the core charge, and the steering wheel was because I didn't want to drive back to give them back their puller. Also, the installs were in a truck, I wouldn't swap the water pump on my LS1 in a parking lot, would take for freaking ever.
Aftermarket pullies pretty consistently give 1 mph in the 1/4 and a few hp too.
The only way I'd do a pulley swap is if was doing the cam at the same time.
*hint hint*
and about how long does install take for a 17yr old?
I know some 17 year olds who were swapping 350's into S10s, and I know some who can't change their oil. So it depends.
Hope you have a "pulley puller" and torque wrench....if not let a shop do it...by the time u buy both of those you could of had it installed for 50$ less.
With the alt and water pump, I didn't want to have to drive all the way back for the core charge, and the steering wheel was because I didn't want to drive back to give them back their puller. Also, the installs were in a truck, I wouldn't swap the water pump on my LS1 in a parking lot, would take for freaking ever.
Go with the stock pulley
The only way I'd do a pulley swap is if was doing the cam at the same time.
*hint hint*
maybe you all could explain this to me...im kinda confused...ok from all the write-ups ive read you unscrew the crank bolt almost all the way, but then stop and use a puller????? wouldnt that strip the last few threads? Why not just unscrew it out?
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the puller uses on the head of the bolt to get the pully off. The bolt just passes through a hole in the pully, it only screws into the crank itself. Pulling the pulley off around the bolt won't strip anything. (wow... too much 'pull' 
)
The only time I ever took mine off was my cam install as well, but I just put the stocker back on. Make sure you check the crank threads so there's nothing in there to gall up on your ARP bolt and rip the threads off (yeah, its interesting to see what a little metal flake can do to such a well engineered bolt. I wish I'd have at least blown the hole out with compressed air or something. It would have saved about 8 hours and lots of hassles (plus hassles I haven't even dealt with yet).
)The only time I ever took mine off was my cam install as well, but I just put the stocker back on. Make sure you check the crank threads so there's nothing in there to gall up on your ARP bolt and rip the threads off (yeah, its interesting to see what a little metal flake can do to such a well engineered bolt. I wish I'd have at least blown the hole out with compressed air or something. It would have saved about 8 hours and lots of hassles (plus hassles I haven't even dealt with yet).
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you know what..i get it now..sorry, i just couldnt picture it.. thanks for clarifying .
also, why do you have to torque it down to 240 let it lose then to 76(think thats the # of the top of my head, i do have them somewhere) and then turn 140 degrees? whats the point of that?
thanks for clarifying .also, why do you have to torque it down to 240 let it lose then to 76(think thats the # of the top of my head, i do have them somewhere)
and then turn 140 degrees? whats the point of that? You use the old bolt to torque it down to 240. This seats the pully against the crank. Then you take the new bolt and put it in. Torquing to the first number gets the bolt ready to stretch, and the 140* stretches the bolt so it will hold the torque against the threads in the crank.
No worries!
No worries!
Originally Posted by ws62001ta
ok so should i even invest in pullies then, are they worth their 12hp gain?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Cali
Originally Posted by CamTom12
the puller uses on the head of the bolt to get the pully off. The bolt just passes through a hole in the pully, it only screws into the crank itself. Pulling the pulley off around the bolt won't strip anything. (wow... too much 'pull' )
The only time I ever took mine off was my cam install as well, but I just put the stocker back on. Make sure you check the crank threads so there's nothing in there to gall up on your ARP bolt and rip the threads off (yeah, its interesting to see what a little metal flake can do to such a well engineered bolt. I wish I'd have at least blown the hole out with compressed air or something. It would have saved about 8 hours and lots of hassles (plus hassles I haven't even dealt with yet).
)The only time I ever took mine off was my cam install as well, but I just put the stocker back on. Make sure you check the crank threads so there's nothing in there to gall up on your ARP bolt and rip the threads off (yeah, its interesting to see what a little metal flake can do to such a well engineered bolt. I wish I'd have at least blown the hole out with compressed air or something. It would have saved about 8 hours and lots of hassles (plus hassles I haven't even dealt with yet).
