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More issues with Fast 90mm TB :(

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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #21  
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"I swear, my throttle body blade stuck officer!"
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 04:59 AM
  #22  
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The cam is moving on the main shaft.Meaning- the cam that the cable it hooked to is not tight enough on the shaft that the throttle blade is bolted to.There is a set screww on the back side that needs tightening.I just drill a hole in the shaft and spot weld there to secure the cam to the shaft.

To test if this is the problem.Grab TB blade and turn throttle Cam and see if it moves.I know it will...
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 07:19 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
The cam is moving on the main shaft.Meaning- the cam that the cable it hooked to is not tight enough on the shaft that the throttle blade is bolted to.There is a set screww on the back side that needs tightening.I just drill a hole in the shaft and spot weld there to secure the cam to the shaft.

To test if this is the problem.Grab TB blade and turn throttle Cam and see if it moves.I know it will...

Ill pull it off and look at this again but I already made the flat spot on the shaft and tightened down the TB, I tried to move it and I could not but maybe its moving a minute amount who knows. Plus it only does it when the car is on which is what really perplexes me.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 07:29 AM
  #24  
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Mike I just got my TB yesterday. I am having the same problem. Mine is definately not the TPS. It is hanging open. I cannot make it do it by hand. If I open the throttle slowly with the gas pedal and release slowly is when it happens. I can bring it up to 3000rpm and it will stay there. With a blip of the throttle it pops back down.

I made the problem occur on purpose 5 times to see what was going on.
Each time I would bring it up to 3k and it would stick I would shut the key off and go have a look. The cable is not binding up. The cam is not hitting anything. I can tap the cam lightly with my hand and it snaps shut. The only thing I can think of would be the blade scrubbing in the bore. I ran out of time last night and I will be messin with it as soon as I get home to get to the bottom of it. I am pissed to say the least.

BTW I also thought of putting another return spring on there. Should not have to do that with a TB that is this expensive. But I will do what needs to be done.

Brad
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
Mike I just got my TB yesterday. I am having the same problem. Mine is definately not the TPS. It is hanging open. I cannot make it do it by hand. If I open the throttle slowly with the gas pedal and release slowly is when it happens. I can bring it up to 3000rpm and it will stay there. With a blip of the throttle it pops back down.

I made the problem occur on purpose 5 times to see what was going on.
Each time I would bring it up to 3k and it would stick I would shut the key off and go have a look. The cable is not binding up. The cam is not hitting anything. I can tap the cam lightly with my hand and it snaps shut. The only thing I can think of would be the blade scrubbing in the bore. I ran out of time last night and I will be messin with it as soon as I get home to get to the bottom of it. I am pissed to say the least.

BTW I also thought of putting another return spring on there. Should not have to do that with a TB that is this expensive. But I will do what needs to be done.

Brad
Damn man I feel the pain, I was thinking about another spring as well but where can you get one that will fit?

I think with a strong enough spring my issue will be fixed.

IF ANYBODY WHO READS THIS WILL BE KIND ENOUGH TO COMMENT, PLEASE INFORM HOW TO DO THE SPRING MOD

Did I say please ??????
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:02 AM
  #26  
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If I have time tonite I will put a return spring on mine and take some pics.

Brad
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:04 AM
  #27  
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I'm having the same issue with mine, Mike...it just started this week after some "spirited driving." I got the dreaded high idle and surging at idle.

Sure enough, the blade wasn't closed all the way- the cam is spinning on the shaft- I can move it by hand in my case.

I previously experienced problems with the TPS sensor, too. I got that straightened out, now this. What a PITA. Also, the bolt holes for the IAC motor were too shallow- I used some washers to correct that problem (I was afraid to cut the bolts) but it looks kinda shitty.

Shouldn't have all these problems with a $500+ TB, IMO...poor quality control at FAST.

Makes you wonder if any testing was done on these units at all before they were released?
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:18 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BADSS
I'm having the same issue with mine, Mike...it just started this week after some "spirited driving." I got the dreaded high idle and surging at idle.

Sure enough, the blade wasn't closed all the way- the cam is spinning on the shaft- I can move it by hand in my case.

I previously experienced problems with the TPS sensor, too. I got that straightened out, now this. What a PITA. Also, the bolt holes for the IAC motor were too shallow- I used some washers to correct that problem (I was afraid to cut the bolts) but it looks kinda shitty.

Shouldn't have all these problems with a $500+ TB, IMO...poor quality control at FAST.

Makes you wonder if any testing was done on these units at all before they were released?


Damn man,, well the good news is Jay at fast will get the groove machined in for you so it does not spin on the shaft, But damn man you had alot of problems.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:26 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
If I have time tonite I will put a return spring on mine and take some pics.

Brad
Thanks man I can probably do it even with a written explanation and if you can tell me where to get the spring at if you want to.


I'll try revving it up and letting it come back down like you did and see if I can get it to stick that way but mine is like yours in that the blade does not turn on the shaft and the tps is ok. It must be just barely scrubbing in the bore then, We might even try what Jimmy said earlier in the thread and undo the shaft to blade bolts and flich the throttle then re-tighten. At least you were able to actually see it stuck. What I was doing was stopping and turning the car off while it was at high idle but as soon as a I turn the car off its goes normal...!!!!
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 10:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
The cam is moving on the main shaft.Meaning- the cam that the cable it hooked to is not tight enough on the shaft that the throttle blade is bolted to.There is a set screww on the back side that needs tightening.I just drill a hole in the shaft and spot weld there to secure the cam to the shaft.

To test if this is the problem.Grab TB blade and turn throttle Cam and see if it moves.I know it will...
Mine is NOT spinning on the shaft. It is one of the newer ones and is machined properly. I checked it trust me.

The Blade is scrubbing in the bore. It has scuffmarks on the pass/throttlecam side.

The blade/shaft has play in it from side to side. I can hold it up to the light and can see a small amount of light peeping through all around except where the scuff marks are. I can tap with my hand on the Throttle cam and shift the shaft/blade so that there is light all the way around. When I rotait the cam the blade moves back over to the wrong position.

This problem is amplified when the motor is at operating temp. I can make it hang by hand now when the motor is warm. It is even hard to open the tb It seems to be getting worse.

I tried a carb style return spring and it did not make any difference.

I know I can send it to FAST and they will fix it. The problem is I have an Appointment for the Dyno/Tuning on Tuesday. The next availiable appointment is not untill DEC. I had to pull freakin teeth just to get Tuesday off so I could make it up there. As of now the car is undriveable.

Sorry Mike, Wish I could have been of more help.

Brad
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 03:14 PM
  #31  
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I went out again and this time I stopped the car on the side of the road while it was running with the high idle, sure enough the throttle was stuck open a little, I hit the throttle cam with my hand and bam back to normal idle, It was not the cable either it was somehow binded up. I'm gonna take it back off this weekend and see if I can fix it,

I want to have this bad boy done so I can drive up to Thunder without having to always **** with the idle, If I cant fix it it will go to fast after that.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #32  
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I went out and started tinkering around again,, This time I think I got it, I smoothed out the bolt stop groove even though that was already ok and this time I wound the spring like a mother f*cker before I put the cam back on. I also tried to eliminate as much play as possible by moving the cam as far on the shaft as possible before tightening. I went for a test drive and so far so good, I dont want to get too happy but It might actually be working now.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 01:59 PM
  #33  
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Mine seems to be fixed as well with the help of an extra return spring. Still tesing but so far so good.

Brad
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 07:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SquintzPallatore
Mine seems to be fixed as well with the help of an extra return spring. Still tesing but so far so good.

Brad

same here so far so good, chalk up some more R&D for us ls1techers



I did get a flat tire when driving today though

if its not one thing its something else.
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 01:19 PM
  #35  
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Sorry it took me so long to get back. Been busy. All I did was get a pack of carb style throttle return springs and used only one of them(there were two in the pack).
I then hooked one end of the spring to that peg that sticks out on the cable cam. Hooked the other end to the upper radiator hose clamp.
I also at one time took the throttle plate out and smoothed off some of it to stop that scrubbing in the bore. Be careful here. It's very easy to remove too much material.
I know, this kind of crapp shouldn't be necessary.

Later fellas,
D
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 03:01 PM
  #36  
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Dustin Butts has really evolved this TB.

He should work at FAST so others in this post didn't have to deal with this.

Or everyone could just ship their TB's to Dustin and let him re-fix them

Good work, Dustin Butts.
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 08:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Dustin Butts
Sorry it took me so long to get back. Been busy. All I did was get a pack of carb style throttle return springs and used only one of them(there were two in the pack).
I then hooked one end of the spring to that peg that sticks out on the cable cam. Hooked the other end to the upper radiator hose clamp.
I also at one time took the throttle plate out and smoothed off some of it to stop that scrubbing in the bore. Be careful here. It's very easy to remove too much material.
I know, this kind of crapp shouldn't be necessary.

Later fellas,
D

Thanks man, if I am still having issues this is the next thing that I will try, one way or the other we are gonna make these TBs fully functional lol.
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 08:55 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Mike K.
Thanks man, if I am still having issues this is the next thing that I will try, one way or the other we are gonna make these TBs fully functional lol.


Mike I hope you can make it to Thunder Man!
I will be making my appt at the dyno tomorrow

Brad
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 06:00 PM
  #39  
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Talked to FAST/Wilson folks at SEMA. They are aware of the issues and are doing everything they can to make it right. Some of the original issues were do to trying to get the product to the customers to quickly. They do monitor this section, so if you have constructive comments to make... they are listening.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 09:12 PM
  #40  
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I've noticed mine sticks a bit. I had to open the blade a bit to reduce my IAC count and it sticks less.

I've also had screwee TPS readings. see my other post. I bought mine in October.
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