What Boltons need a Tune?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,157
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Ideal depends on your application. If you want to pay for that tune then go ahead it wont make that much of a difference. I will say this, the vcm has the ablility to 'learn' and make adjustments based on long term fuel cells (meaning it can cut back or add fuel if needed).
Aim for 12.5 on the A/F About the only bolton that I don't have is a new MAF, everything else is pretty much done, and I am running cats.... power is in my sig. I know the factory tune in my car was way lean with the boltons. The tune gave the car alot more power... and the tq was alot better too. Under peak #'s were dramaticially imporved, If I remember correctly, I think I gained about 35 HP and 40 TQ at 3600 rpms over the stock tune, that's stuff that you can feel.
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12 Second Club
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Aim for 12.5 on the A/F About the only bolton that I don't have is a new MAF, everything else is pretty much done, and I am running cats.... power is in my sig. I know the factory tune in my car was way lean with the boltons. The tune gave the car alot more power... and the tq was alot better too. Under peak #'s were dramaticially imporved, If I remember correctly, I think I gained about 35 HP and 40 TQ at 3600 rpms over the stock tune, that's stuff that you can feel.
from the looks of your list your missing a 160 T-stat, Electric Water Pump, Underdrive crank Pulley, and Ported Throttle Body which ive read to prove up to +/- 10 rwhp each
Sorry, forgot to add the pulley and ported TB to my sig. It's fixed now. I do wanna pick up one of those elec. water pumps, hance the reason I haven't bothered with a t-stat, just gonna have to change it with the pump anyways.
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My .02: My first mod was a handheld programmer. I then did all the free mods with TR55 plugs, wires, lid. Next came the shoties, Y-pipe, highflow cats, Borla catback. Then 3.73 gears, suspension stuff. Then came my cam. It's a mild cam (TR220 on a 112 LSA). No tuning was done until after the cam install and it ran well. The guy who tuned it spent a lot of time trying to get more out of it. He lost 20 RWTQ and only gained a little over 2 RWHP. It didn't run as well down low, mid-range, OR up top after the tune ... very disappointing.
As some have said IMHO, you may need a tune after LT/ORY to lean it back out and turn off the rear O2's. After a LARGE cam install, NOS, charger, major internals. Otherwise, I don't believe you'll get more than a handful of HP with a tune. I could be wrong though ... maybe I just have a good handheld tuner for those mods (Superchips > everyone says it sucks, but, it did me good).
Until you get that HUGE cam and really need a tune, I think the ECM/PCM will adjust to the other mods and supply about the right amount of fuel for your bolt-ons, even the LT's. What I did after my LS6/portedTB install was to reset the PCM by following the instructions on a link at LS1.COM. It seems to have allowed my ECM to re-learn the fuel curves/timing and my car rins better than ever. I did not have the SES code ... just wanted to reset the computer. It did not change my shift points, shift firmness or rev limiter. EGR/AIR/rear O2's still are all turned off after the reset, so, I'm not sure how it resets the other stuff. Before doing this, make sure you check with a couple of tuners here.
Instructions on How to Reset the LS1 ECM
Submitted by: Scott Harroff
As some have said IMHO, you may need a tune after LT/ORY to lean it back out and turn off the rear O2's. After a LARGE cam install, NOS, charger, major internals. Otherwise, I don't believe you'll get more than a handful of HP with a tune. I could be wrong though ... maybe I just have a good handheld tuner for those mods (Superchips > everyone says it sucks, but, it did me good).
Until you get that HUGE cam and really need a tune, I think the ECM/PCM will adjust to the other mods and supply about the right amount of fuel for your bolt-ons, even the LT's. What I did after my LS6/portedTB install was to reset the PCM by following the instructions on a link at LS1.COM. It seems to have allowed my ECM to re-learn the fuel curves/timing and my car rins better than ever. I did not have the SES code ... just wanted to reset the computer. It did not change my shift points, shift firmness or rev limiter. EGR/AIR/rear O2's still are all turned off after the reset, so, I'm not sure how it resets the other stuff. Before doing this, make sure you check with a couple of tuners here.
Instructions on How to Reset the LS1 ECM
Submitted by: Scott Harroff
This is intended to reset that aggravating 'Service Engine Soon' light so many of us seem to see. The light is normally set due to a loose gas cap or a high frequency error on the mass air flow sensor in front of the intake manifold. If the light persists, you may want to have you car checked by a GM dealer. It may be a good idea to remove your K&N air filter, and replace it with the stock filter or equivalent before your visit to the dealer. Dealers, in the past, have been known to blame the MAS error on excessive oil in the K&N leaking onto the MAS. If the fuses aren't removed in this procedure, the codes will be stored in the ECM until the fuses are removed, or the dealer clears them with a scan tool. Rumors have it that stored codes retard timing and spark ignition which will hender the performance of you LS1.
1. Turn key on but don't start car.
2. Pull PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
3. Wait a few minutes.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Replace fuses.
It will take the car a while to relearn the fuel and timing curves so don't worry about a temporary performance loss.
2. Pull PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
3. Wait a few minutes.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Replace fuses.
It will take the car a while to relearn the fuel and timing curves so don't worry about a temporary performance loss.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: PA
I added long tubes a month ago and its seems to be running rich. I lost 4.5mpg and car smells like fumes really bad. A buddy of mine told me when I revved it some, it left some gray smoke out too. Would removing the fuses solve this? If not, I'm thinking of getting a handheld programmer so I can lean it out sound. I was about to buy a MAFT but after reading on the site people said they were a waste to buy.
Thanks
Thanks
