That's fine Joel... but I can't argue with my ATAP files either, or with my mileage increase. I wish I could give you dyno numbers, but I am not gonna spend the extra money just to get a dyno done.

Personally, I am more than satisfied and happy.

 

Not snake oil. Racers used to take regular plugs and cut down the electrodes to make homemade side-fire plugs. What they have done is one better than the Bosch +4s (not side-fire, but multi-electrode like the +4). They have made a well-designed side-fire plug that leaves almost all of the spark unshrouded. Even is you can't measure it on the dyno on every vehicle, the difference is there: more complete combustion in the cylinder, and more power. That's like saying indexing spark plugs amount to using snake oil. Indexing spark plugs have given proven gains by pointing the spark towards most of the mixture in the combustion chamber. These plugs do the same thing, without needing to be indexed (which is a PITA). But...you could probably get pretty good results indexing your NGKs. All you need is a set of indexing washers and a permanent marker.

 

I'm thinking about getting these plugs. What heat would I use for a stock LS1 w/ a lid and catback. 16 or 17?

Also what constitutes indexing a plug? And what is the worst part about doing it that makes it a pita?

Thanks

 

N/A, bottle fed - same thing.. we dynoed my car on the bottle and off, monitored by wide band o2 and the perfect power smt5i data logging I had on the car and the Competition Data logging equipment the tuner shop has.

turbo car monitored and tuned by LINK engine management

Honda monitored and tuned by Zdyne

the turbo and S/C cars we advanced the timing, cranked up the boost(turbo car) and added fuel.. the usual bland ngk plug on even the n/a car was able to hold 3-4* more advance than the brisk units with out detonation/knock/ping what ever you like to call it. Spraying we had to retard the timing with the fancy plugs to get it to work -loss of power- there are 2 different electrode ends for the brisk units that were sent to me. I'll get pics for ya. i went back to the TR6s in my 12 second nitrous 2.8L Fiero and put the stock plugs back in the honda, etc...

if you actually look or hold a straight edge to one of these plugs (the sets that i have) there is no direct path to the electrode from the grounded case. this forces an ARC ) shaped spark sure it increases the available spark exposure but also introduces higher loads on your coils and a less powerful spark which is easier to be blown out or disrupted by the air/fuel turbulance/turbidity(flow of particulate matter eg. atomized fuel) in the combustion chamber. Buy em if ya want to say ya have em... their super cool looking and I'll bet your neighbor donesn't have a set

ooh who wants a can in their intake!? i've got a case of coke cans i'll make ya one.. ! dynos don't lie but their only as acurate as the information given them. The winpep and similar programs are great but easily manipulated for uum enthusiastic results.

-cans in the intake have shown measureable inprovement in open single plane carbed and tbi engines-

 

The lower timing before detonation is exactly what I would expect of a plug that instigated a faster burn of the air/fuel mixture. A plug, head design, or whatever, that gets the fuel burning faster and/ or more evenly has pretty much the same effect as advancing spark. If you define the timing event from the point that the flame kernel reaches a certain size, rather than electrical input into the coil, I suspect they would be nearly identical, so long as other factors remained unchanged. Knowing what the peak power before detonation was for each setup would be revealing, but in my experience if you're looking to track relatively small changes, dyno error will sometimes overshadow the changes. Less timing = less power only holds true if nothing else changes.

An electrical discharge will take the shape of an arc regardless of what you do. It's a fact of physics, and might even have something to do with why they call it an "arc." As to a greater distance the arc must traverse, the opposite of your assertion is true. "Load" on the coil will be less rather than more with a greater gap, as the electrical resistance of the plasma between the electrodes will be higher.

This is not to say that these plugs as currently configured are necessarily ideally suited to extremely high compression (S/C, N/A or otherwise) or nitrous applications. Generally speaking, one will tend to want to reduce gap once equivalent compression reaches a certain point. Obviously, this is not an option with a plug of this type. The general rule is that increasing spark gap increases power and efficiency up to the point where misfires begin to occur. This point will be influenced by compression, temperature, electrical energy available, and chemical composition of the fuel/air/nitrous mix.

 

I'll keep indexing my NGK's and save the 70 bucks

 

Well the idea is sound. They may have just not produced a high quality plug, or done all of their research then. That's a shame. NGK makes some nice quality 4 electrode plugs, but I have no idea if they make them for our application. I think Denso makes some also. All the ones I have used were for rotary engines though. If you put regular plugs in a rotary engine you definitely lose power. But that engine is a whole different animal...

Check out these plugs (nice pics of some other Brisk plugs too!)
http://www.silverbulletrx7.com/plugs/

 

I have corresponded with both the US and Canadian distributors, and verified that there indeed has been a design change in the LGS style, explaining the apparent discrepancy in the photos above. Evidently, not everyone's web sites have been updated to reflect the change. In the current design, the 4 holes have been extended into 4 slits, giving it the appearance in the lower photo. This was done to improve circulation of the A/F mix around the plug area. The main difference here, as opposed to the Bosch, and any number of 4 prong "aircraft" designs is that the center electrode protrudes well beyond the ground electrodes, thus no "shadow" in the flame front, and the prongs are much wider than the other types, allowing the spark to occur almost anywhere along the perimeter, wherever the A/F concentration is greatest.

 

I feel you, brother. The main reason I haven't gone that route yet, is that I absolutely HATE indexing plugs, and there are always 3 different opinions as to which way to point them. Some folks say point them towards the intake valve, others say point them towards the area of maximum "squish" in the combustion chamber. I'm sure that getting them all the same is probably more important than absolute position. I'm new to the LS1, so I'm certainly no expert on the head design. If there is anyone who has actually taken the time to do the experimentation on the ideal indexing angle, (I'd rather get a root canal) I'm always willing to listen. I've got to believe that indexing plugs on a 4th gen Fbod is a fate worse than death.

 

The 17 is closest to a TR-55 heat range, perhaps a tad colder. Indexing is the process of controlling the position of the ground electrode so that the open end points in the ideal direction (which is sometimes an argument in itself). It is accomplished by putting thin copper washers (shims) of varying thickness on the plug seat. A set of indexing washers will have an assortment of several different gauges of copper washers. Indexing accomplishes 2 goals:
1. Hopefully getting the maximum combustion efficiency and,
2. Getting all cylinders the same, reducing stress and vibration on the crank and bearings

 

I have no A/C or other BS in the way so its not too bad but I agree its still a PITA.I would honestly try these plugs if a shop would back to back Dyno them on a LS1.

 

JS, I sent you a PM regarding a gentleman who has apparently done that.

 

Could you please tell us what happened? Thanks in advance for the info.

 

In the May 2005 GM High Tech Performance Magizine thier is a "Quick Test" page in the back where they tested these plugs on a 2000 Z28. It is small so I will write it.

WHAT IT IS: Brisk Premium LGS spark plugs

CLAIM TO FAME: Wild psark plug gap design with intergrated silver ground electrode is said to eliminate indexing while providing hotter spark over conventional plugs

WHY THE TEST?: It looks cool but will it make better power?

HOW WE TESTED IT: During an LS1 Camaro dyno session with Quick Time Performance, a fresh set of NGK TR55s were the only items changed between pulls. In their place went Briks's P/N GOR17LGS plugs

DID IT WORK?: The 2000 Camaro put down 324.9 horsepower and 328.1 lb-ft of torgue with the first set of plugs. After switching to the Brisk plugs and re-testing on the dyno, the power surged to 328.2 horses, with the torque staying nearly the same, at 328.5 lb-ft. That's a gain of 3.3 horses and 0.4 pound-feet of torque at the wheels. It seemed to have worked in a naturally aspirated setup. Time will tell if this style plug will work with forced induction applications.

RETAIL PRICE: $12-$20

RECOMMENDED: YES

 

Now, I'm just wondering how long they'll last and if any of the sponsors carry them...

 

Man I thought this thread was dead! It's cool if they do really give you a few HP , but my thoughts are that 3hp is within the margin of error for a dyno. Of course it didn't state whether they did multiple runs to get a good average. Because if just one run was done, the test is totally worthless. As the engine heats up, the power will go up (or even down if they engine is too hot) between runs.... soo idk

 

 

OK so which Brisk plug and what exact model do i get for a 11.5s LS1 baby cam , 10.7:1 ???????

I think this is worth a shot. A gain of anything is worthwhile